What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Just scored some 10-13 TE wheels for the tundra. $350 w/caps and nuts. Going to shine them up and put some rubber on em.
Still deciding what size/brand etc for the tires though.

 

I like those. What size and what are they from?

 

Bought a speaker fix kit from simply speakers. I know this could probably go in audio but it's not exactly technical audio shit so...plus I never post in the correct place anyways.

Kit showed up today while I was strip washing truck to apply ceramic spray on coating....so I jumped on it.

Speakers were rattling and sounded like hell with about any music. Not pleasurable to listen to so in an attempt to save money, at $35 I figure if it doesn't work who gives a fuck. This kit comes with new foam surrounds, glue, instructions and a link to a YouTube video. If you do go this route the guy makes it look really easy as far as not getting glue all over the place this shit is sticky as hell. It does set up fast you'll want to wet rag just to wipe your hands off and I would not suggest using a paper towel to clean off adhesive because the remaining adhesive will just catch the fibers on the paper towel and it will stick to the metal surround and the speaker cone when you're trying to clean. I used a half inch wood chisel to clean off the surround adhesive on the metal seemed to be way easier than a knife. Will update once I can install them to see if it sounds better and fixes the rattle but right now I am waiting for glue dry.






Update: this made a huge difference in sound and lack there of. They front woofers sounded like they were blown at times. Best 35 bucks I've spent on this truck.

 

Time to clean up the calipers up front on my 06 Double Cab.


This caliper cleaned up really easy. I think this is a rebuilt unit, the pistons aren't rusty at all.

On to the passenger side. This one is definitely the original. Rust is quite substantial. The brake pad pins were frozen good. I needed to whack this vice grip with a hammer in order to get the pins out.


After the pin was out, I had to remove a ridiculous amount of scale. I was pounding away like I was THOR, especially when big chunks of scale came flying off. It's amazing how the rust peels away to reveal a sound and solid object.


When I ordered this from the Amazons, I could have sworn this looked the size of a PINT. Damn thing is tiny. That said, I painted the two calipers with two coats, and plenty is left. Will save it for the rear drums.


First coat on the driver side caliper.

 

Nice work! My speakers were rattling, and I thought the foam surrounds were to blame. I ended up buying the kit, too.

When I came around to taking the door panel off on the driver's side, turned out the speaker was fine. It was missing one out of three bolts that secure it to the door. Found a spare bolt and tighted it down, and the rattle was gone!

I have to check the passenger side though.

 

I didn't see any bolts. There were like 4 screws holding each speaker in. Hardest part was getting the damn connection off speaker thought I was gonna break it at first. I really hope this helps the sound. Not really wanting to gut and install new system. I'll go overboard. Even though I have half the stuff laying around from previous vehicles...

 

I believe from an FJ Cruiser. 17x7 +15.

 

Thanks! Got them on etsy, but they're on fleabay too: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-TRD...Tundra-Vinyl-we/254713759252?var=554493009196

 

I just replaced my crankshaft position sensor hoping it would fix my problem, but I'm at a loss.

For the last two months I've been getting a cylinder misfire code for cylinders 5 and 8. There's no sign of a misfire or anything wrong with my engine other than the light. The code is thrown any time I'm above 2500 rpm and from about 0-25% throttle.

I've replaced those spark plugs, rotated the coils, and I've even rotated my fuel injectors to see if anything would change. I even seafoamed the heck out of my engine but it remained those two cylinders. My last ditch effort was to buy a new crank sensor but that didn't help. The old one was dirty and I was hopeful it was the cause.

My engine idles great so I don't think I have a vacuum leak. The only other thing it may be is an intake manifold gasket leak around those cylinders.

I would love to hear any recommendations on what I should try or test!

 

compression test is a must if it hasnt been done.

 

After some driving, the loss in body roll and tightening of handling is noticeable and welcome in the city. On the flip side, pothole filled roads are a little bumpier. A little give and take, but I am happy so far with this decision esp. since the Aadco is relatively inexpensive.

 

Agreed,. Also check the harness for any damage.

 

New PCV valve and new purge solenoid. Let's hope this clears up the last 2 evap codes because I really don't want to have to drop out the gas tank again.

 

Great to hear. Now I'm wondering if I should install one... hmmm.

 

Ordered some Patagonia M/T to replace the 14 year old terra grapplers. Hyped!

also, I towed for the first time with the 285/75/16s, and the power loss is quite severe. Kinda bummed, but it’ll be fine for DD duty.

 

After replacing all the brake lines on the front end, I decided to clean up the calipers and painted them with two coats of POR-15.




When putting back the brake pads, I realized that the last person who installed them was a complete idiot. They used the anti-brake squeal goop on all the parts that should get high-temp grease. That goop is supposed to be underneath those thin plates.

 

At some point, I'm ready to flush my system with the Bosch fluid. The current fluid is clear, and the Bosch fluid is clear. How will I know when to stop bleeding at each wheel?

 

got oil changes thanks to my helper. starting them off young

 

Pretty darned cute ! A gearhead in training . . .

 

Hopefully you paid that tech, mine usually walk away with the tools I need, or come back full of dirt

 

Had my 10 YO son help me change some brake pads this weekend on our Honda Odyssey. He complained cause he wanted to play with his friends, but I made him do it anyway, because he loves to know how stuff works, so I knew he'd like it and well, he needs the experience of working on your own shit...

When all was said and done, he says to me, 'Dad, that was fun seeing how that worked, I want to help every time."

 

Flushed the power steering fluid and did what looks like the first drain/fill in the rear diff. Not sure how bad my rear diff is, but it doesn't look great. Good news is, the near future may involve fitting a LSD or locker to the rear end.

 

Looks about normal. You'll always have a little metal on the magnets and gear oil turns black super quick.

 

The fluid was oddly greenish. I think from more shavings in the fluid. It seemed like a lot more metal than I would have expected.

 

Mine always came out green. LSD additive + Valvoline gear oil in, comes out stinky green.

 

Makes me wish I didn't throw mine away

 

I buttoned it all back up but I am pretty sure that goes down to the bunch in the first picture. Sorry for the latey response. Gonna hold off on the install until my camper build's in a good place.

You are #goals. This is the way.

 

Camper shell conversion progress update:


•Cab pass-through panel 100% done. And yes I can fit through that hatch. I even upholstered the other side with black fabric for a finished look in the cab. The bottom has a track to hold the bolts with wing nuts (I'll put white caps near the end) and on the top I wanted to test 3M's product called "Dual Lock," a hella strong Velcro, keeping most big things in the build at least semi-removable.

•Bed "nightstand" cabinets built with magnetic hardware and birch plywood. Not lots of room in there; enough for a laptop, phone, etc. Every inch counts. Need to add one more bracket to the top, hardware to hold the bed plywood in chair mode, and to finish the faces with gloss white laminate. Don't worry, I'll keep that pretty wood grain on the inside of the cabinet.

•Insulation 75% done. Stupid Home Depot's foil tape doesn't stick for the Reflectix vapor barrier, so have to touch up with another brand.

•Furring strips 90% done. I used the highest quality construction adhesive I could find because you don't want that wood detaching from the fiberglass shell when temps change! They don't budge if I pull as hard as I can, so should be able to hold wall panels. This is one of the most time-consuming and unique parts of a fiberglass shell build.

•Side window covered. I neatly caulked the daylight out of it with black silicone because this plywood panel is permanent. There is black fabric on the other side; between that and the tint, it looks good from the exterior. I even added a front door peephole so I can peak out that side if needed.

•Back shell window covered in sound deadener. While some might disapprove, I have good reasons for a future post. I also have a one-of-a-kind mod coming up with that.

•Kitchen galley unit 80% framed with aluminum extrusions. It will feature a sink with running water, a cooktop, and drawers with plenty of storage. I really wanted to mock up the countertop today except ran out of time.

Upcoming build milestones:

-Electricities. @Trailscape has an amazing solar setup if you wanna see something cool, mine will be simpler as I'm eliminating the need for many individual components (charge controller, batteries, etc.) by going with a solar generator which has them built-in. I'll have a Renogy 100 watt solar panel on the roof rack powering everything. Should I still run a fuse panel between the generator and appliances? I'll be using heat shrink crimp connectors going forward.

-2KW Diesel heater.

-Upper cabinets. Will continue to use 80/20 extrusions as they're incredibly light and strong, plus it will be a smaller cabinet unit so I won't need much. This will house the electricals and food supplies.

-Mattress. I need to learn how to sew some covers. Actually this should come first because that's all I need to start roughing it in the mountains!

 

I know it's not wiring. It was happening before I replaced my harness for my 4wd conversion

 

I did this on my 2005 DC when it had blown speakers....it was the best $35 I've ever spent...worked like a charm. The speakers went from unusable to sounding great.