What would you say if I told you

Sometimes when I'm in gear and fully stopped at a light, the light turns green, I release the brake pedal, feel the truck start rolling forward, then it feels like something else releases. Almost like the front discs and the rear drums are releasing less than half a second apart.

Don't know how to else to explain it. Truck is under 100k. Minor maintenance was done at a reputable lube shop, no records from Toyota except recalls and major maintenance like timing belt, water pump, similar.

 

I'm thinking axle wrap? Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

You are not alone man, essentially what I have come up with is a delay in down shifting in the tranny. When I first got the truck I checked the calipers and rotors to make sure they were not loose. What I have started doing is instead of pressing the brake pedal continuously until full stop I make a short release before full stop and it does not happen. From my research it is quite common and our transmission is just clumsy at down shifting.

 

Here’s what I did to eliminate my issue with that on my 06

1. make sure your driveshaft support bearing and u joints are good
2. Grease your slip yoke (2wd won’t have grease fitting from factory,you have to pull axle,clean and lube yourself manually)
3. Check and service your transmission fluid. Mine was low and once topped about 1/2 a quart more than it really calls for then it stopped

@Professional Hand Model can chime in with his expertise as well

 

Yeah. The transmission fluid level plays a big role in lazy shifting.

Another thing I noticed when my rear drums were soaked with oil from leaking seals was that I could feel the drum shoes sucking on the drums from the wetness mojo.

Start chipping away at @SouthWestGA list. I run my trans fluid high on the dip stick, but your 06 is missing that so I say develop a baseline of where yours is and then start adding a little at a time (if its low).

 

Hit the gas faster.

 

Start with the slip yoke n' fill er' up. Report back.

 

Mine does it, my last 02 did it too.

 

Grease the shoes contacts, put on new shoes springs, clean out the drums of all the dust, buy new 12 hole injectors

Just some more ideas that may help. My truck hasn’t experienced this delay problem from stop to acceleration, but has had that delayed shift on fast slow downs back into an acceleration. The 12 holes fixed that one.

 

Did you just click bait us?

 

Even better... come to a stop, shift to neutral, take your foot off the brake, then apply the brake and shift into drive. This allows for the suspension to relax & settle... no energy is stored. If the secondary release is felt after doing this, you need to start inspecting everything.

 

It's not the transmission. I'd say it's a 95% chance it's your slip yoke.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/jolt-when-stopping-at-a-light.60699/#post-1590863


"The driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease. There's a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much grease was in there to begin with.

Take your grease gun loaded with lithium-based NLGI #2 grease and start pumping grease into the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter increased resistance on the grease gun handle and see that the slip yoke is expanding. Continue to slowly add grease. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about five to ten more pumps or until you see grease coming out around the seal, then stop.

Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Clean up the expelled grease, re-install the zerk and you are good to go."

 

That info helps to flesh out what's involved in @SouthWestGA 's list above, thanks @FirstGenVol

Slip yoke regrease seems easily doable, isn't that something supposed to be done every 5-10k? I actually just need to go through and hit everything with a zerk across the entire chassis. I need to get a tube of NLGI though, my gun is loaded with some old-school Exxon brown goo because that's what my old C10 used.

Oh, and if anyone is wondering what the phenomenon feels like, think about the release you feel the second after you let off the brake at a stop light but before you touch the gas pedal. Now imagine you felt a half-sized "echo" of that feeling half a second after you released the brake pedal, but before you touched the gas.

That's what I'm feeling. At first I was wondering if maybe it was an issue with the MC, or I hear the boosters sometimes go out in these, but there's no sponge in the brakes, no squishy pedal, no vibration when stopping, no hard pedal. The only thing odd about braking is things are a little weaker and more sensitive immediately after starting the truck. Gone by the time I make it out of my n'hood, which is a couple hundred yards.

 

I believe that is the stored energy I mention here.

 

Yes it can feel like a second brake release,or axle wrap,or a “tap from behind”

I had the exact same thing.

 

My theory is second brake release. It mostly happens under a solid braking episode, doesnt happen under pulsating your breaks to come to a smooth stop

 

If i came to a sudden stop,it felt like that. When i took my foot off the brakes and started moving again,i felt it

if I slowly and smoothly stopped and braked intermittently it did not happen as often or maybe i didn’t feel it as often

I had a 2wd 06 first gen.

I believe the issue is 2 fold.

1. Binding slip yoke which is affected by driveline stress
2. Possible low trans fluid which caused erratic shift patterns

Of course i may be wrong and the OP may have bad axle seals or some other contributing factor

However,most people I know in real life that have 1st gens have confirmed the 2 items above

 

How stupid is this. I searched for anyone reporting this same issue before posting this thread. But here I was searching the forum for "NLGI" to see if anyone had a preference on brand, in case it's different from mine.

Anyway, in that search for NLGI I found this. This post explains it exactly. https://www.tundras.com/threads/jolt-when-stopping-at-a-light.60699/#post-1590590

And I see @FirstGenVol was kind enough to post the same reply there too (thanks for reposting that info several times, it's appreciated)

The explanation @MrDirtjumper gives sounds 100% like it applies to what's going on, and all the info in that thread is what I need to get a better picture of what needs to be done. Very cool!

 

That is exactly what my 01 does, and my 02 did the exact same thing. My 01 has perfect transmission fluid level, i highly doubt it has anything to do with fluid level. Good to know its commonish

 

This was the silver bullet. I can confirm a couple things: One, the 'clunk' is no longer happening since I greased up, so I'm assuming it was the damn slip yoke, which I'll post in the other thread too in case someone finds it. Two, I definitely didn't overfill. I jumped on the bumper, removed the zerk, jumped on the bumper again and only a dime sized blob of grease plopped out. Reinstalled zerk, done.

The latter of these points makes me think the slip yoke hadn't been lubed in years, if ever. And some of the grease that squirted out for the other joints and such was pretty f'n gnarly to say the least. So ... yeah. Let's just say this is something I'll be sure I'm doing once every 12-24 months from now on.

And for those of you like me who had to have 4WD, regarding the two forward-most zerks on the short 4WD shaft, I read a lot of people complaining over the years about what a PITA they are to lock onto and pump up. I think it was the one closest to the engine that was more difficult, but if you rotate the shaft so the zerk is pointed toward the driver's side, about the 8 o'clock position, it's waaaay easier to grease. However, I suspect a right-angle coupler like this one would work - I didn't try mine, straight couple worked fine.