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Front? Or rear?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by SavageIndian44, Jul 24, 2020.

  1. Jul 24, 2020 at 6:11 PM
    #1
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    Hey everyone, I bought my 2000 Tundra about a month ago. Since then I've been giving her a little TLC. It's payday but I can't afford front and rear suspension products because I'm going to change the breaks as well. And rent is going to be due in a week.
    Which would you change first? Front spring shock assembly or rear shocks?
    I do drive quite a bit for my job, lots of freeway and surface streets.
    Thanks for your time.
     
  2. Jul 24, 2020 at 6:36 PM
    #2
    Dog

    Dog sit!

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    Just my opinion. I would drive it for a while, save up more money, and take care of higher-priority maintenance items first since you just got it. Timing belt and related items if needed due to miles / time (or unknown since you just got it...), change all fluids, get all brakes evaluated and refreshed if needed, same with LBJs. Then spend some time on this site planning your suspension refresh / upgrades. Lots of threads about suspension here, both stock height and lifted. Then when you have the $$ saved up, you will have a plan.

    Just my $.02. And welcome! (also, forum rulez, we have to see pics of newly purchased first gens...) :thumbsup:
     
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  3. Jul 24, 2020 at 6:46 PM
    #3
    junior

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    If you gotta buy the suspension separately and save between purchases, I think I'd just wait to then install them both at the same time.
     
  4. Jul 24, 2020 at 6:53 PM
    #4
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    Don’t even consider shocks if you need brakes.
     
  5. Jul 25, 2020 at 5:49 AM
    #5
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Firstly, good job buying a 1st Gen!

    Secondly, good job setting priorities. Brakes are the most important. With money tight, I’d focus on the front Calipers/Pads. With yours being a 2000 model, its probably time to buy new calipers and shoes and do a full brake fluid bleed. Our 00-02 came with the smaller WE13 calipers and you can upgrade to larger WL13 if you want as they cost the same. At almost 20 years old, some of the pistons can be seized up.

    If you have any extra$ then rebuild the rear brake drum cylinders and put new shoes on back there if needed.

    Save up and do your suspension another day in another phase. Brakes are the most important thing right now. The fronts do 70% and rears 30% of your braking.

    Check my build page for the parts#s.
     
  6. Jul 25, 2020 at 6:00 AM
    #6
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Old and tired 2002 WE13 calipers. Danga danga!
     
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  7. Jul 25, 2020 at 6:38 AM
    #7
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    I concur. Brakes first, and a 13WL swap. Also, get this tool or similar for the rear drums. You'll hate it a lot less.

    Screenshot_20200725-083700_Chrome.jpg
     
  8. Jul 25, 2020 at 6:46 AM
    #8
    Kanobi13

    Kanobi13 New Member

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    If you are in there doing breaks i would tackle front suspension. Rear shocks are quick to change out.
     
    SavageIndian44[OP] likes this.
  9. Jul 25, 2020 at 6:51 AM
    #9
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    Not on a first gen. It's a pain in the ass that makes removing the bed to change them seem like a good idea.
     
  10. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:03 AM
    #10
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  11. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:17 AM
    #11
    Kanobi13

    Kanobi13 New Member

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    You have to remove the bed to change shocks?
     
  12. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:19 AM
    #12
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    You don't HAVE to, but it makes it an easy job. That top nut on the shocks is about an inch below the bed.
     
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  13. Jul 25, 2020 at 1:04 PM
    #13
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    I concur with BMF, rear shocks on first gen sucks. I had to cut the boots off and grind flat spots on the shaft to get a proper grip and get the top nut off with a box end.

    2nd/3rd gen has way more room for tools, probably a 5 minutejob on those trucks.
     
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  14. Jul 25, 2020 at 1:11 PM
    #14
    CodyP

    CodyP Such a n00b

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    I didn't think the rear shocks were that bad but then I just realized that I have a block lift so that probably made it way easier.
     
  15. Jul 25, 2020 at 3:45 PM
    #15
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Might just depend how stuck the top nuts are, if my nuts came off easy it would be cake. Block lift won't make a difference, it's spinning a nut where the shaft spins too in the tight space above the frame that sucks.

    20200725_154359.jpg
     
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  16. Jul 25, 2020 at 3:55 PM
    #16
    CodyP

    CodyP Such a n00b

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    yep. you're right. Although I maybe I just have small dentist hands and didn't have issues with the top nut. a ratcheting box wrench helps a ton too
     
  17. Jul 30, 2020 at 12:07 PM
    #17
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks everyone, your advice was heeded
    I just took a peek at the upper end of the rear shocks. I may have to do that, I have biscuit hands with Christmas tree fingers. Thanks for the heads up
     
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  18. Jul 30, 2020 at 12:09 PM
    #18
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    That never crossed my mind, safety first especially with my son in the picture. Most appreciated my friend
     

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