HALP! TOYTEC Diff Drop Issues

Hey guys,

Before I call toytec and sound like an idiot, I want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong while installing my diff drop. I can't get the front right (drivers) diff mount to lower enough to slide the spacer in (pic 1).

It seems like there is a driver's side rear diff mount that is not letting the diff completely drop (pic 2).

I have been following the given instructions on how to install but something definitely doesn't seems right and it looks to me like toytec sent me all the components (pic 3).

What do you guys think? Is there something not described in the instructions? Am I or Toytec missing something here?

Thank you for your advice!

 

Check this video out bud, he shows you have to loosen another bolt a little farther back in order to get the clearance needed.

https://youtu.be/zJm3FblrlR4?t=187

 

you don't really need it imo. what kind of lift do you have ?

 

Thanks for the vid and advice everyone.

It just didn't seems right. I found a couple videos that showed the diff dropping evenly on both sides and was extremely easy to install. I already broke the welded nut in the LCA for the sway bar link . Didn't want to break anything else. And now I have to find the right wrench to hold the nut and fit in the access hole on the LCA. Really glad yota made that access hole tho.

I might turn some steel spacers for the skid plate so I can mig them on so I dont have to mess with them every time I change my oil.

I just put on the 6112/5160 at 1.9". Getting an alignment this morning and getting ready for new 18x9s and 275/70 r18 or 295/70 r18. Putting on toytec lift shackle and cb carriage bearing drop after the alignment too. I need the rake for towing.

I'm planning on going up to 2.5" with a shim or two but need to save some cash for UCAs. I'm probably going with the JBAs since I'm in the salt belt since they're maintenance free and easy ball joint replacement. Because of my plans I figured I'd throw the diff drop on now.

One of these days I'm gonna make a sweet build thread so I can get more ideas on how to spend more money. Especially since I have an overlanding trip in Colorado coming up next year.

 

You really dont need UCAs until you go 3 inches or higher.

 

That's been the more popular consensus I've read here. Seems like some owners have had some alignment troubles with it at 3" without UCAs. It seems to depend on the truck and everyone's is different. So I'm waiting until I do the taller lift and see where the alignment is. Hopefully I don't need it and I'm wrong haha.

I know from the other threads I've read that it's a highly debated topic.

 

Don’t shim 1/2” and IMO the diff drop is gonna cause more problems than it fixes especially with that small lift.

 

@brobert225

I guess I may not do it now then. I'll save it for when I step up to 2.5. at this point I'm gonna get new wheels/tires probably 295/70 r18 and see if I want to make the jump up to 2.5. can't imagine why I won't do that lol.

 

Also for anyone else who is on the fence about 1.9-2.5 on the 6112/5160 lift, 1.9 feels way better than stock and is still keeping the stock "softness" without being harsh if that appeals to you. I imagine 2.5" will be a little more stiff but in a good way to make the truck feel less like a car and much more capable.

 

This 100%

 

If you are going with 295/70/18 tires you might to consider the SPC UCA, it allows you to move the wheel slightly forward or back in order to center it in the wheel well so there is less of a chance of rubbing. They are also a maintenance free ball joint and easily replaceable.

 

Ok. I didn't even think about that. Great info! I will definitely consider this in the near future.

 

skip the diff drop. might bring more problems.

 

Thanks again for the help everyone.

Finished installing, 6112/5160 at 1.9", toytec shackles at 1.5", TRD rear sway bar, and coachbuilder carriage bearing drop.

Will be posting a build thread soon to get all my other mods up on here.