Upgraded trans cooler

Just ordered one......

 

Yep everything is a direct replacement, it's an easy install and well worth it. The cooler comes with plenty of new hose to get rid of the old stuff. I used ss clamps not the ones in the box but that's because I had them laying around. If you move the horn and completely remove the stock brackets for the oem cooler the new one slips right into the spot I put mine (refer to the pic) also make sure to use the included foam pads between the condenser radiator and new ATF cooler. I was going to stack some fender washers to space it about 1/2 inch from the other radiator but decided there is no reason to.

 

That's right, these cooler lines are held on my clamps right? I was thinking for some reason they were threaded fittings. Do you have more pictures of how/where you mounted it? Not that I need it (never use this truck for towing) nor do I need another project for the Tundra..... I do like to tinker though. I am always a fan of adding more fluid and keeping things cooler.

 

Actually towed some weight today, 3200lbs and cool as a cucumber. 85° out and a head wind.

 

The 05 access cabs have a headrest for the center seat? That picture has me all confused.

 

It's a bench front and I deleted the back seat for the pooch and the fridge/freezer

 

Apparently right side drive too lol

 

Did you have to program a code to get the voltage to work?

I tried to duplicate what you did and didn't get any data.

 

I programmed in a sequence for pan temp and internal trans temp. You can find all the info here to do it yourself. It's not as hard as you think. Good luck

 

I was asking about volts. I got trans temp to work already.

 

Ah I see, there is an option to run voltmeter off the voltage at the obd dongle. So far it's the most accurate option i can find.

 

I’d like to see a side by side comparison of these Trans Cooler Thickness. While one may be going ‘bigger’ may not actually be the better case as the smaller ‘thicker’ one has the same or more cooling area.

The OEM seems thicker than the aftermarket, but it very well may be the angle of the dangle. Going from none to one is good either way.

 

The oem is roughly 1/2 an inch thicker. Hayden is exactly 3/4 thick. I would imagine that more cooling area adds the efficiency and more cooling power than the thickness. IMO the slightly thicker oem unit has less cooling area when adding surface area x thickness vs the Hayden by a bit (it could be near the same) I have seen a jump in cooling performance so I'm happy with it. I almost bought an oem but Hayden is $50 so I based my needs and wants off my wallet thickness lol gotta save money for beeerz

 

Yeah. You did good. Nothing wrong with your job. I like to think through things a little bit just so I can understand. Too your point, the thickness does add cooling power just as much as the size. Without doing the math a smaller thicker one may have the same cooling area. This might help with those tight on space. Again you did good and glad its working for you. $50 is a good deal!

 

Thin rads are more effective as well.

 

The monster I have is a bit thicker than stock

 

Well if I convince myself to pull the trigger to swap to the

$59 Hayden 679 Universal 11” Rapid-Cool Add-On Transmission Cooler to Enhance Cooling (not for direct replacement of the factory unit)

Hayden 679, I'll take some comparison pictures. I really don't have a 'need' to upgrade but the current one has some bent fins, rock dings, general nics/scratches from being twenty years old. I like the idea of having better cooling and more fluid but I haven't totally convinced myself to do it... yet. @Surf_spear_Mex has been extremely helpful with all of my questions.

 

It seems to me a greater frontal area would be more desirable than greater thickness. Greater frontal area would increase the volume of fresh air in contact with the cooler. A thinker cooler could, physically, have the same surface area but, because it travels along the cooler for a greater amount of time, as the air travels to the rear of the cooler, it has a diminished capacity for heat transfer.

 

I've been meaning to post back in here but I finally got an old Droid setup with Torque Pro. It's actually a really cost effective way to monitor lots of things. Took a little bit to get figured and setup the display but it works great. I've been monitoring the trans temp pretty closely and the hottest I have seen it so far was 170*. I was reading some articles and most were saying any where from 170*-220* is 'normal range.' Some of the articles were mentioning that every 20* drop in temps could double the fluid life vice versa

I think at this point I am just trying to convince myself to have an excuse to work on my truck lol.

Edit: Alright, I ordered. Had a $25 Amazon gift card to burn, after that, $30 w/prime shipping.

 

This is what my heart desires.

 

So I got mine in over the weekend and it's been working great! Before, my trans temp ranged from 170*-190* depending on where I was driving. With the Hayden 679, temps dropped to 140* or below. I am now wondering how it is going to run in the winter months. I am thinking one of these might be worth while or does it defeat the purpose of the cooler all together?

https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/thermostats-1/fluid-control-thermostats/13011-detail

 

Sounds like the cooler is really cooling. I’d say run it without the derale do-hicky in the winter and see how she does. Your new cooler might be too cool for winter. The fluid needs warmth for flow and smooth shifts. My OEM truck cooler/trans shifts get better in winter once the fluid warms up.

I wonder if just running the stock sized cooler is the best for our trucks, unless you are in the Death Valley area?

I’ve towed/hauled in high heat for years with no problems with the OEM tow package cooler.

 

I guess we will see how it does in next few weeks before the oil change is due. At 140* it shifts smooth as butter. I didn't like that fact that in some of the hills the trans temp got to *190+ for a bit but it did cool back off shortly after. If I could keep it at 160*, I'd be happy. I still have the old cooler so if push comes to shove, I will slap it back in.

 

Can anyone produce a diagram or snap a few pictures of how the lines are routed for a 2000-2004 AC? I believe I am missing a bracket as they are just dangling so I had to zip tie them for now so they are out of the way. That would be extremely helpful please!

 

Well another test drive and the hottest she got was 158* which is where I’d like it to be. It mostly sat around 140-150* on a 15 mile drive. Do these transmissions have an internal thermostat?

 

That’s it! Now where does it attach to?

 

Outside of lower engine area most likely from memory. Below manifold.

 

Hmmm I’ll have to look when it stops raining. The bracket is there but it’s just hanging at the moment and I don’t recall seeing a spot “oh that’s where that goes.”