What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah. Those are cool. I’ve revisited their site today. $199 for the Turn Mirrors w/o a backing plate. Add $50ish for heated and go through mega electrical for that. Not worth it. These are like $8 for both. If they suck its no loss. If they look good then its win-win. Hoping for success!

Based on my door jamb lights I believe they will be nice. Just have to play with the mounting location variables inside the assy.

 

Woah. We must be talking different brand? Last I check is was all of $$100

 

@Professional Hand Model
These are the pics of the front bed bolt mounts. I assume your frame is the same as mine from engine components back to rear of the truck.

Here is side view from outside of the frame looking into the front mounts.

You can see them with a camera going between bed, and frame looking toward inside of the truck. Video investigation.

 

Muth Mirrors. Those without heated mirrors can buy the ‘H-Mod’.

 

Oof

 

Looks like high risk with low reward. Not into a bed removal and tapping broken screws.

 

I see. I want you to do the best thing for you, but want you to be aware of what you're getting into. I really wasnt aware, but I made do. Bed bolts torqued to 62 ft. Lbs. Rechecked last week. G-money.

2-3mm off on pass side when compared to drivers. Minute.

 

Here's the instructions they deliver with replacement glass, ask me how I got these . But replacement glass comes with two new push-pins, so here's what I'd tell you if you're just popping out your glass and reinstalling: Watch this and pay close attention to what she does with the pushpins, trust me, it'll make your life hellaciously easier.

tl;dr - while the OEM instructions are really helpful albeit difficult to read, they're really only good for a new mirror.

Pro tip: If you're reading this and replacing with OEM glass, the bubblewrap-tape they use leaves a bubblewrap pattern on the glass. Take a small dab of auto polish (I used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish) and rub across the mirror to remove it easily. It's effectively similar to using any of the window polish products on the market.

EDIT: These are the instructions for the Sequoia and Tundra. Look carefully at the bottom tight corner of each picture to see which is which. Are they different? I can't tell. Just pointing this out in case it's important.

 

Gotcha

Any special push pin lube reccomended?

 

What they give you in the replacement part package is a little tube about as big around as a drinking straw and 3"(ish) long. If memory serves, it looked almost silverish in color, had a texture between lithium grease and Permatex anti-sieze and a color that'd be about the same as mixing those together. I wish I'd saved the tube, but there was very little left.

When I pulled my mirrors the factory grease looked pretty brown like traditional axle grease.

 

I have lots of dielectric grease. I'll just use that i guess.

 

This is not the @Professional Hand Model I have come to know on here last couple of months. I got a dollar says this project gets done by you in near future

 

The last gen of celicas had the 180hp 2zz in the gt-s models. And the matrix XRS had one. Lotus was the only one that got the supercharged version. Sport compact car magazine even turbod the matrix xrs. But, as we all know toyota ecus, swaps were nearly impossible, and mods weren't very effective. Shame, those cars had a lot of potential too. My xrs was neck and neck with my buddy's turbo Jetta.

 

Not bad. I used a hooking type tool to grab the top of the mirror. Pushed it in at the top so the bottom of mirror projects out enough to get the fingers behind. Then pull with both the hook at the top and fingers at the bottom. There are two cones with ribs that are held in place by the mirror adjustment screws. Also, there are two bars that snap in/out. Pulling the mirror off is fairly easy. Putting it back (without damage) is hard and needs patience lining things up.

 

Nice instructional. As far as lube, I just fingered what was original on the edges and pushed it back in the hole.

NOTE: The rings on those cones need to be fully pulled up and square to the tip and locked into the grooves. When reinstalling mirrors it is very easy for these rings to move out of square do not force the push in if this happens. Pull out and reset the rings and start over on the reinstall.

 

Yup. I didn't know this the first time my mirror glass got popped out and it turned into a disaster trying to get it reseated, the little metal rings kept riding up and that's a big no-no. When my mirror popped off the 1st time while investigating how hard it would be to chrome-cap mine, one of the posts stayed inside the mirror housing, the other stayed on the back of the mirror glass. I didn't realize there were two, I just assumed it was only one. Big oversight.

That single reason [those metal rings riding up == bad] is why it's critical to do exactly as shown in the sheet instructions or the video I linked, and to pop those two pieces off totally and pre-install them into the mirror housing and rotate the post CW/CCW to match the back of the mirror, then snap the glass onto them. It turns a frustrating 5-10 minute job of finagling with those damn metal rings into a quick 1 minute of firm pushing in the strategic areas marked on the instruction sheet.

 

The Jenson had a couple critical problems. Replaced it with a Pioneer. Super happy with it, probably should have bought that in the first place. Still no dash kit, USPS managed to lose another one of my packages.

 

Anyone have an instructional type advice and parts needed to replace climate control lights? All 3 of mine are out.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-replacing-climate-control-lighting.53354/

 

Pretty easy job
https://www.tundras.com/threads/climate-control-lighting.16678/

 

It's very easy just be careful when tugging. These plastic parts are starting to get brittle with age.

 

Picked up and dropped off a 4ton package unit for the neighbor, you can bearly feel the weight back there, the Bilstein package absorbs the big speed “hump” on my street rather well(when I see speed hump slow down, I always gas it!!)
And I might ride gateless for a while, it feels dirty, but it looks so good!


@bmf4069 what size wire do I need from my disco to the unit? 10 or 8g?

 

We've gained some new 1st gen memebers lately. I like it!

 

Have we? I mean I know we have, I just wasn’t sure if I should be as excited as you are?
I’m hoping to help out a local @rob-o beatle or something, with some gear install, sounds like a fun person based on their payment offerings! I love Bartering and back scratching! A good friend from my high school era, that was my sisters era, haha, has been feeding me side jobs, and I’ve been feeding him electrical side jobs. When I told him his breaker was off for his AC and that’s why it wasn’t working......he was a lil upset!

 

It defintiely seems like we have new people posting. I know we have a ton of guys that just watch and never post but I'm seeing new names.

 

well incase anyone is chasing a squeal in the morning apparently the updated tensioner was not the only thing in the TSB.. never noticed the compressor bracket was also changed. hmmm wonder whats different
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/547621120845807628/731324981069217812/T-EG026-06.pdf

 

Supporting my wife during the "Relay For Life" cancer benefit. It's usually a walking relay for teams and such to raise money for cancer research, but this year they turned it into a cruise down Main St. due to the Holocough. She was diagnosed with stage 4 colon cancer last year and even though we always supported this event in the past, it's a kick in the nuts to have my wife as part of the survivors.

 

Super cool! And the best of care to your wife.
How was the turn out?
I remember doing diabetes walks when I was a kid for my dad

 

Guilty. Lurked for a good year and a half before finally breaking down and registering to post helping someone out with an issue.

Figured I'd leached enough info from here since getting my Gen1, needed to finally give something back.