35x12.5/20 no lift

Lil rub..

 

Interesting.

Are you keeping it this way, or just screwing around?

Did you trim a shit load of the Fenderwell?

I'm going to put same size on my 3in front lift and hoping I don't have to cut much with +25-35 offset wheels when I get the money to switch over.

 

I just took mud Guard out.. it rubs when I reverse but not bad the front just a little ... saving up for a lift kit next...

 

Wow that's crazy.

Great color to, almost wish I had got blue instead of white, but I love my interior temperatures.

Gives me hope mine will fit without to much trouble size wheels and and offset are you using?

 

I just put 35zx12.50s on my 07 Tundra with a 3" lift and 18x9 -12 offset wheels and I had to do a ton of trimming to get them to fit with no rubbing. Full BMC plus removing front fender liner.

Just a thought before you go with a super negative offset wheel. I'm not sure how OP managed to fit 35x12.50s on a stock suspension setup.

 

Thanks, that's good info, and as expected.

I am unsure how he accomplished this either based on all the info here it should not be possible....

I think OP will find massive rubbing and damage if the suspension compresses at all, even in regular driving, let alone anything offroady.

I have read many places, including this site, that the best offset for the least trimming is about +35. Anything negative offset will require massive trimming to fit 35s according to my research.

 

Yeah you're right. I wanted a stanced look and went with -12. I regret all the trimming I have to do (and still get some weird rub sometimes), but the stance is perfect.

 

Looks great, I agree.

However, I am not looking to remove Fender liner at all, or have any open, or removed liner areas. I had to butcher up my 4Runners wheel wells to much, never again.
Body mount chop is fine, as that section looks weird sticking out into the Fenderwell anyway lol.

BTW you may have been better off with less negative offset, and adding spacers to achieve your pushed out look. Hope you don't mind dirt and rock damage on your paint as those tires are going to do a number on the sides of your truck from throwing debris most likely, as they seem to wide for your fenders without flares to protect you.

 

Are you saying that the spacers with a more positive offset wheel would allow me to dial in the backspacing more precisely? I'm not sure how spacers vs - offset would change the stance.

And yes, I have thought about that a lot, but it's an old truck and the paint isn't doing so well anyway. Already taken it through some mud and rocks and haven't seen too bad of damage, but we shall see...

 

Yes.

Negative offset pushes the wheel out more. Read the wheel stickies in the wheel forum for details.
Spacers do the same thing, basically. But with spacers you can browse more wheel choices with less negative offset and still get that pushed out look.

Yea it may or may not be hard on your side paint. Also depending on how much you care. But the effect will be cumulative meaning it gets worse over time.

I would invest in fender flares to help with this issue somewhat. I know I will be using them. But I also like the look of color matched, proper width flares personally.

 

Ok, I see what you're saying now. I'd have more customizability with the spacers versus just the -12 wheel. I bought the wheels and then instantly thought about the spacer route and kinda wished I went that way, but here we are! All good, love the way the truck sits and don't mind the paint (so far).

 

Thank you for this comment. I was trying to figure out if -15 beadlocks would fit. I called a friend that owns a small tire shop to try to help me measure stuff out. I could feel his frustration over the phone and after about 20 minutes, he scolded me about the idea.

 

Seems like there's a lot that goes into fitment, and it can be really frustrating. Honestly I ordered the wheels and then started to second guess fitment a ton. Halfway though I realized a BMC was inevitable. I also realized that using spacers to fine tune the stance is a lot better than just going all in.

 

I'm not a huge spacer fan. I off-road on what are considered "moderate" trails and I don't want that extra layer of parts. Most people have good luck with them though.

 

Yea, I agree, never been a fan of spacers.

They stress out the wheel studs beyond intended specifications.

That being said, a shit ton of offroaders, and desert racers use them with little to no issues.
Just don't get crazy or go with more then like 1.5in spacers and you should be fine.

Also proper wheel torque, spacer torque, and warping of brake rotors requires more attention with spacers as this is another layer to the puzzle.

I discovered a while back, most warped rotors are due to holding red hot pads on red hot rotors while sitting at stop lights or in traffic.
I fixed this by slipping into neutral and letting go of the brakes when possible on flat ground, or barely touching brakes just enough to prevent rolling, or using the rear parking brake instead to hold the vehicle in place. (wish we had the console pull handle parking brakes like 4 Runners used to for this)

This trick works for all vehicles and is one of the main causes of warped front brake rotors.
Along with improper/unbalanced wheel torque causing the rotor to warp when super heated.

 

There's a lot of reasons the racers use wheel spacers, but they are typically custom machined billet. Keep in mind that the racers and serious off-roaders mount their own tires. Taking your spacer equipped truck to a tire shop will usually leave you walking away empty handed because they will not put your spacers back on. Some even refuse to work on it all together.

 

That is very true about most corporate tire shops. I ran some of them. They are liability averse. Meaning they refuse to take on any liability for anything not factory installed and approved on a vehicle, so they often will not touch them.

Simple solution, go to a real tire shop that is specialty, and more expensive, but knows there shit and what to do properly. Sucks, but you pay for expertise sometimes, over minimum wage kids grinding out a pay check at a corporate idiot store.

 

Yes, best answer, but not always practical. If you travel a lot, purchasing tires from a national brand will get you reliable support across the country. Live in TX and headed to WY? You can probably find a Discount Tire or Pep Boys along the way to service the tires you bought certificates for. You may not get that with a small local tire shop.

 

That is a good point, it is nice to have company product support when traveling.

But some things to bare in mind.

Almost no Corporate tire store stocks our modded large offroad tires, they have to be ordered, or at least fetched from the local distributor warehouse if they even stock them, most do not, at least not in my area in the VA suburbs of Washington DC.
So if your tire is unrepairable, your most likely screwed regardless.

If you drive a modded vehicle and travel with it, or go deep offroad away from civilization, you should carry and no know how to use tire repair kits, plus carry an air pump, along with tools for repairs
I have since I started driving, it has saved many a trip/vacation.
Fast and simple (tire repair on the side of the road)

You can even buy tires from the Corporate stores, they will sell them to you, just not touch your vehicle to mount them.
Then have them mounted else where. Then if one gets destroyed while traveling, you may be able to get a replacement, after waiting for them to source one. Then find another shop to install it, or sometimes a well run Corporate store manager will ignore the rules to get you fixed up in an emergency, I know I would, and have when I ran Corporate shops.

Bottom line, always be prepared, especially if you drive modded vehicles, your the mechanic, must be able to rely on yourself, your skills, and your gear/tools when the chips are down