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Changing Valve Cover Gaskets

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Les7311, Jan 20, 2017.

  1. Jan 20, 2017 at 6:59 PM
    #1
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    (Write up below how I finally completed this surgery)

    2008 Toy(Undra), SR6, 5.7L

    Passenger side Valve cover surgery

    I removed all 12 of the VC perimeter 10mm bolts.

    Plus, I think 2 or 3 of the 14mm that holds down the large vacuum lines from the firewall on top of the VC

    Moved the electrical harnesses

    disconnect the battery....I think they are bolt free

    Are there any bolts in the middle of the VC that is screwed in that needs to be removed? They seems more like bracket bolts to secure solenoids etc to top of VC.

    At front of VC closest to the throttle body are two ears/nipples on the VC that looks like you pry from there to raise the VC.....but no luck....

    I can see the VC wanting to rise, but as if something... I guess the seal is tight.... I don't want to force and brake the VC... what is my approach? engine has 122K miles. IMG_0737.jpg IMG_0736.jpg IMG_0735.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 18, 2017
  2. Jan 20, 2017 at 7:12 PM
    #2
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    Look at middle pic. The two top "ears" on the VC closest to the throttle body is where I am prying from, but not much for separating the VC. I can see it flexing, but not budging..gggggrrrrrrrrr.....
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2017
  3. Jan 21, 2017 at 12:53 AM
    #3
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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  4. Jan 21, 2017 at 4:00 AM
    #4
    Virgils12

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  5. Jan 21, 2017 at 6:02 AM
    #5
    tomsinamerica

    tomsinamerica New Member

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    i'd wait for Lotsoftoys to respond - he's a pretty smart cookie. But if you're impatient, and confidence you've removed all the fasteners - i prefer a rubber mallet over anything prybar-ish.
     
  6. Jan 21, 2017 at 6:54 AM
    #6
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    The VC is slightly opening where the "ears" are close to the intake (shown in middle pic), but am not all the way confident if the Force am putting on it to pry, and possible crack it.

    If it requires a lot of force then that's what am not doing ---- scared, maybe. Amount of force to use---uncertain. 50lbs of force or more????
     
  7. Jan 21, 2017 at 3:52 PM
    #7
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    Surgery complete!!!

    There is a 12mm bolt in the middle of the VC that should also be removed. That was the culprit!!!!!!

    Both sides compete and took about 6 hours.

    Skill and difficulty level is a 7.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2017
  8. Jan 21, 2017 at 4:37 PM
    #8
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    On the first or third pic, that beige sensor, the bolt is situated immediately underneath it.

    TOOLS and PARTS
    New valve seals for each well.
    VC gasket - one for passenger side; one for driver side (if doing both)
    Silicone to hold the new gasket in the VC spline
    10mm and 14mm very long and short socket set
    Long and curved-necked lockable scissor-pliers
    Flat head screwdriver
    32mm socket
    Hammer
    Drop cloth or equivalent to protect the side paint you working from
    A good friend willing to get oil smudged
    Patience, patience and more patience.

    Please don't be intimidated of this long write up. I took the extra time to remove as much for easy accessing the bolts and freeing up the VC. Ok. Here goes....

    Disconnect the battery.


    PASSENGER SIDE
    - Remove the air filter box with cover and filter to the air flow valve. Also the vacuum hose and sensor connecting to air box
    - Use pliers to snap and unplug the clips for each sensor coming off the electrical harness. Mark them if you wish. I didn't. this is where your patience begins.
    -Remove all 10mm bolts securing the VC. You may have to feel around the edge of VC if you cannot see them. I think I removed either 13 or 14 total. make sure your socket set can get into some tight spaces.
    -Remove the 12mm bolt smack in the middle of the VC.
    -Remover the spark plug coils; unplug each sensor coming from the wiring harness
    -Remover the two 10mm nuts for the electrical harness that is directly connected to the firewall... pull bracket from firewall. you will need that space to access some pesky 10mm on the VC
    - Remove the two 10mm (smaller) bolt at the highest point of the VC and closest to the firewall. They hold the coolant lines in place.
    - Disconnect the two large coolant hose coming from the firewall ... will loose about a cup of coolant.
    - Remove the ground wire (10mm bolt) coming from the electrical box and bolted to middle of the VC
    - Unclip the harness from the tabs and brackets... the scissors lockable pliers work best to squeeze and old the tabs while you wriggle them out of position.
    - Remove the bolt that holds the oil dipstick. located to the almost at the neck of the dipstick.
    - remove also the 10mm that holds the coolant line sitting just above the dipstick... you need all the flex and space to get the VC out.

    By now you should have the harness all freed up, unplugged, and loosely hanging, and now moved aside, and ready to remove the VC.

    Gently but with firmness pry up the VC by the two "ears" located by the butterfly. If it doesn't lift up with some Force similar to removing a bottle cap, or at least seeing the VC move, then recheck again if you did remove all the bolts securing the VC.... I struggled with this part for hours....
    If the VC lift up from the ears, then work you way to the back close to the firewall. You will find that the valve seals hold the VC in place also. Call for help if you have to.

    VC Extraction: Wriggle, move, twist (2 more hands is better) out of position and under the harness until it's completely out. Pack some patience. Lift high as their are marker studs on the VC that aligns the VC into position.

    The above took me hour almost 3 hours..... if was to do this today or a later, it will take me under 1 hour.

    Once the VC is completely out, use small head flat head and pry out the rubber seals. They can be brittle so no worries, just get them out.

    Remove old VC gasket.

    Spay down inner VC with brake cleaner

    Coat the new seals with oil, and press firmly and flushed into the well. They will not sit in by finger force. Place the face of the 32mm socket over seal and firmly tap them in until seated. Note!!!!!!!!! Look how the seals are in placed in the VC before you remove them... both sides are not the same, and you must replace them in the correct side.

    Silicone the VC spline where the old gasket was and insert the new gasket. Let the gasket and silicone set for about 15 -30 minutes This helps when installing the VC and not having the gasket falling out.

    At this time, I took the time to start unbuttoning the driver side VC harness and all.

    After i removed the driver side VC, we stated to reinsert the passenger-side VC back in place. Two pair of hands... one to move the harness and "stuff" out the way, the other feeding the VC back into position. Make sure you clear the wells , and once you place the VC into position, you will know its seated properly, and not rocking.
    CHECK, Check and check all the harness and peripherals that's around the VC to make sure everything is ok, and not trapped under or behind the VC. (we had to remove the driver side VC again - - did all the work was buttoning up and discovered one of the harness connectors was actually inside the VC)

    Start buttoning up in reverse order. This part took about another 2 hours.

    The DRIVER SIDE VC

    apply same principle above. This side was easier. Be careful however and not remove the fuel lines....

    As mentioned above, this is about a 3 hour job if I had to do it all over again.

    Disclaimers: I didn't see anything about torqueing the 10mm so I applied same force in removing to the same when tightening.

    Good-luck, and hope this write up serves well. Sorry for no pics as we were hours into this job with greased fingers....
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2017
    P-Factor, JBSTOY and NewImprovedRon like this.
  9. Jan 21, 2017 at 4:40 PM
    #9
    gosolo

    gosolo You Don’t Know Who I Am But I Know Where You Live

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    Hmmm...where is that 10mm socket?
     
  10. Jan 22, 2017 at 11:10 AM
    #10
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    there you go,... write up complete... I am detailed, so don't be as said intimidated by the lengthy description...

    I have searched the almighty WEB and found nothing for a write up or video of this - - guess am the 1st (tee heee)
     
  11. Feb 28, 2017 at 10:01 PM
    #11
    Hasteen

    Hasteen To be continued...

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    Any technique for the tube Seals?
     
  12. Mar 1, 2017 at 3:17 AM
    #12
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    My technique on them seals:

    Removal
    - use a small flathead screwdriver and pry between the seals and the wall it sits in. Seals will be damaged, break or tear, no way around this - buy new ones. Pry hard at the very bottom of them seals because it is metal. A few scrapes may happen with the screwdriver, no worries, the well-walls can take it.

    Installing
    - Coat wells and seals with a lubricant- I used engine oil. place seal flush on top of the well and finger press evenly about half inch in. Place a 32 mm socket on top of seal and firmly tap them in until they are seated into the well.

    Note: use a workbench or similar space to do both seal removal and install, especially when tapping the seals in.

    Hope this helps-
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2017
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  13. Mar 1, 2017 at 3:34 AM
    #13
    Hasteen

    Hasteen To be continued...

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    Les7311[OP] likes this.
  14. Mar 1, 2017 at 3:37 AM
    #14
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    Anytime I find the folks on this forum the most helpful, so you in the best tundra forum IMO, and glad to contribute.
     
  15. Mar 1, 2017 at 6:43 AM
    #15
    Hasteen

    Hasteen To be continued...

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    @Les7311 changing these on my 1st gen and the Oreily's fel pros aren't fitting they're just a hair too big
     
  16. Mar 1, 2017 at 1:05 PM
    #16
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    I really can't comment on the 1st gen set up. I do recommend getting the OEM seals. Can't go wrong
     
  17. Mar 2, 2017 at 7:43 PM
    #17
    Hasteen

    Hasteen To be continued...

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    Well the auto store brand fit after all, the last outter ring of the old seal was still sitting in there and I had to chisel it out with a flat head. All is well, only took 24 hours :rofl:
    They're all relatively the same in my opinion.
     
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  18. Mar 2, 2017 at 7:44 PM
    #18
    Hasteen

    Hasteen To be continued...

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    I also did take a trip to my local toyota picked up OEM seals.
     
    Les7311[OP] likes this.
  19. Jan 7, 2019 at 4:27 PM
    #19
    Killerabbit

    Killerabbit New Member

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    I am planning on doing/having done this after the weather warms up more. What else should I replace/rebuild while I have the engine opened up?
    Thanks
    Tom
    2008 Tundra Limited Crewmax 4X4
     
  20. Jan 8, 2019 at 10:06 AM
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    Dr_Al

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    Here's a tip. If you are short like me when you are going to do this remove all 4 tires. That way you can set the frame almost on the ground. I'm guessing you can lower it by 8" to 10" (didn't measure). When trying to reach into the middle of the engine bay being that much lower really helps. Before that I would use something to stand on but it always seamed to be sliding or in the wrong spot/ side. If it was just a half hour job I wouldn't bother but for something that's going to take 6 hours it's worth it, at least to me.
     
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  21. Apr 30, 2019 at 5:29 PM
    #21
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    @Prrplksh
    Here you go..... show them your worth little lady.....
     
  22. Oct 6, 2019 at 6:21 PM
    #22
    canyonfunk

    canyonfunk New Member

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    Great write-up. Helped me a ton, did the Driver's side on my 2010 Tundra today. The only other suggestion I have is to take pictures of all of the sensors so you can go back for reference when re-installing.
     
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  23. Oct 6, 2019 at 6:44 PM
    #23
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    I agree. But here is what I noticed on a few surgeries....
    The harness most times fits only in one spot. So if you try to plug a harness into the wrong location, it most times won’t reach. I realized this while removing the Harness around the VC.
    Next time.
     
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  24. Oct 18, 2019 at 10:21 PM
    #24
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    I plan to swap the 5.7L valve covers on my 08 Tundra tomorrow, 216000 miles. Got all the tools, gaskets, silicone, etc so it should be an interesting weekend project!
    I also plan to change the PCV Valve on the engine as well while I have everything open.:D
     
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  25. Oct 19, 2019 at 8:00 AM
    #25
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    So for today, since surgery is tomorrow:

    pop the hood and ........

    “ Just look over the real estate...... just look. Nothing more! Take 35 minutes and just look”

    Look at the engine like you plan to rob the engine out of that bay-space but you only have 35 minutes......

    tomorrow at surgery, you’ll find yourself even more prepared. Lol

    duh et!
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2019
  26. Oct 19, 2019 at 8:04 AM
    #26
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 YOTAS,RAILROADER,RÖKnRÖLLN',BEER,MAX/GEMMA

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    None yet
    Just did this on my T100 3.4V6
     
  27. Oct 19, 2019 at 10:29 AM
    #27
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    This definitely helped, been working at it a bit now! Hardest part so far was getting the wiring harnesses disconnected from the valve cover. Not the plugs, but the retaining clips that held it onto the cover!
    Time to pop the first cover off;)
     
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  28. Oct 19, 2019 at 5:13 PM
    #28
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    Okay so I’m on the passenger side and trying to get the coolant lines off. Do I disconnect them at the firewall and right near the throttle body?
    I’m assuming the coolant are these ones with the metal tubes blocking all the bottom bolts haha
     
  29. Oct 19, 2019 at 8:07 PM
    #29
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    Now the problem is just getting this darn passenger valve cover off
     
  30. Oct 19, 2019 at 8:30 PM
    #30
    Les7311

    Les7311 [OP] Look up, what do you see

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    Send a pic. Am nowhere close to my truck
     
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