Replacing differential

The rear axle housing on my 2004 Tundra extended cab automatic SR5 has rusted through. I believe it is a limited slip differential, I can only find a locking differential as a replacement. Does anyone know if they are interchangeable?

 

@Grumpy Uncle is Auburn and LSD?

 

My Auburn is LSD. I'm not sure if they have an option for the 1st Gen. I THINK the 1st gen does have both E-Locker and LSD options from different companies though.

 

It’s sad when I hear stuff like this happening to vehicles. We are talking about some thick, sometimes case hardened steel and it rusted through? Shnikes Sorry about your costly predicament. Is it rusted through the back where the fill plug is? Or the front (gear pig)? Got some pictures?

 

Rusted through just below the fill plug. I live in Connecticut and the solution used on the roads before snow and ice storms is caustic. I had the frame replaced on recall a few years ago and although there is extensive rust on the ubut I didn’t expect

 

@NUDRAT were you the one that had the same problem? Didn't you find a fix?

 

The rear cover isn't much more than sheet metal. Barnes 4wd has a weld on cover to replace it if you have the means or a shop that's willing.

https://www.barnes4wd.com/Toyota-84-Rear-Axle-Heavy-Duty-Differential-Cover_p_1185.html

 

Would something like this work as well? https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-107480-926-958.aspx

 

Yup same idea

 

I put the Barnes 4WD Cover on my 2001. It is a thick piece of metal and should outlast the rest of the truck. It's a fairly big job but I had a more experienced buddy help me. I had tried a bunch of JB weld type fixes but they all failed within a few weeks/months.

 

Did the Barnes fix 3 weeks ago... looks and fits perfectly!

 

Our Tundras didn't come with a locking diff. Where are you looking for replacements?

 

05 and 06 had the limited slips... not sure about the 04. You can always enter your VIN on the Toyota website to confirm specs... toyota.com, then "owners" section then sign up and add your VIN. You will get all the specs and any recorded service histories as well....

 

I already did the specs look up using the VIN, it didn’t include the differential type or gear ratio.

 

Odd... I just checked the specs for mine again... under the "Port or Factory Installed" section it lists "LD 4.100mm Limited Slip Differential"

 

Perhaps yours is a regular 3.90

 

Thank you everyone for the information and advice. FYI a locking differential can not be used as a replacement for non locking, it will not line up you will need to replace the drive shaft and transfer case to make this work.
My mechanic found a cover to weld to the housing as some of you have recommended.

 

If it didn't say anything about the differential, then it has no LSD.

It's either a 3.91/4.10/4.30...this link will help you determine for sure what it was built with...

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/TECHGEARJANUARY.html

 

Delz05
I got the information from the Toyota dealer where I bought the truck, it is a 4.3 ratio, I think that is standard for automatic transmissions.

 

Speedtre
Thanks. As I said replied to delz05, I got the ratio from the dealer.
Hopefully the weld repair works and I don’t need to find a replacement.

 

yes I'm CT with the same issue.

My solution was - finally was cleaning out the breather!
LOL
I drained, scraped, sanded, brake cleanered, JB Welded, & POR15 "Top Coat'd".
The first two times fixed the leak until I drove the truck for an hour, where it started leaking again.
Cleaning the breather valve out & re-doing the repair the 3rd time was my solution.

The local welder actually told me to try JB Welding it before bringing it in to him to get a new cover welded on.
My whole axle tube is pretty ugly & NLA, so avoiding welding on a cover made some sense.

 

My 04 4WD with V8/auto has LSD. The paper sticker stating so was still present near the fill plug.

I don't have this problem yet, but I can see it coming. I've scrubbed off the loose rust and treated with rust converter in an effort to postpone the problem, although I'm fairly certain that when I try to remove the rusted fill plug it will either snap off, or tear the sheet metal as above. It's nice to know there are aftermarket solutions that don't involve replacing the axle.

For those of you that have done the repair, how do you keep the metal bits from grinding out of the gears? Do you have the pull the axles and carrier before cutting off the old cover?

 

JB weld sucks for that purpose....some high quality bond works better, been there done that. That's if you can't weld a new cover on which is the way to go.

 

The weld cover fix worked and saved me a lot of money. Thanks again to everyone.
The garage owner told his mechanic to leave the plug green, he left the whole piece green. It is clear coated so I will leave it green.

 

@Sunnier loves this color green.

 

Ha! Not exactly.

Hulk > frog