Change of ownership check list

New to the forum and new to Tundra ownership. I recently bought a 2003 Tundra Access Cab TRD with 212,000 miles that needs some work. Thankfully I don't need this to be my daily driver (yet) so I have some time to work on it. Here is my plan, I'd love your feedback/input/advice:

1. Change engine oil and filter (5w-30 non-synthetic)
   
2. Change differential oil (
   $39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)
   75w-90 full synthetic)
3. Change transfer case oil (75w-90 full synthetic)
4. Change timing belt and water pump (Aisin kit)
5. Change radiator (Denso) - (I had a 2001 Sequoia that died due to pink milkshake so I may also add a transmission cooler)
6. Change coolant
   
7. Change valve seal
8. Change spark plugs
9. Replace gauge cluster lights with LED (some are burnt out anyway)
10. Fix power steering (master cylinder?)
11. Bleed break lines (they are currently very soft)

The truck had the frame replaced with the recall so I've got that going for me ;-)

The previous owner only owned it for a year or so and had no maintenance records.

Anything else I'm forgetting for "change of ownership" maintenance? Should I do the transmission oil too?

Thanks!

 

Welcome from NY.

Maybe change bulbs to LED's for better lighting.

 

I would do a 3-4x transmission drain and fill on yours since the A340 is so easy to do. Also, adjust your parking brake and rear drums and rear proportioning valve in addition to the bleeding...those are more likely the culprit for soft brakes than air in your system. Grease the entire drive train as well. And welcome...

 

It's also time for the lower ball joints (and uppers if you feel like it). OEM only.

They are a failure point if they let go (tire no longer connected to lower control arm) so changing them at that mileage is definitely a priority and is good for peace-of-mind.

 

Sounds like you’re an able guy. Welcome from SoCal!

 

Clean MAF Sensor and Swap in a new PCV valve.

Do a few drain and fills on the transmission as already stated.

I use Zerex Asian 50/50 Coolant ($16/gal.) and Valvoline Dex/Merc ($14/gal.) for the transmission.

You can get the Toy YZZZD-3 engine oil filters online for about $4-5 each in multi-packs.

Do a few suck and fills on your Power Steering Reservoir using the Dex/Merc.

I use the Mobil1 5w-30 Synthetic High Mileage in the engine.

Replace the V-Belt with a Continental Brand ($20) if needed. Real easy stuff using a 14mm flex head ratchet on the tensioner.

 

Check out this build page for many other inspirational ideas too long to list.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...nt-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/page-4

 

Change valve seal? As in a valve stem seal? If so you gotta pull the heads for that...

 

Maybe he meant Valve Cover Gaskets?

 

Check the carrier bearing. The rubber tends to rot out.

You mentioned the frame was replaced so I assume you live in the rust belt. If you're going to drive it this winter consider protecting the new frame so it doesn't rust too.

Fuel filter should probably be replaced.

Since you mentioned the pedal is soft, how's your parking brake feel? You can take the slack out and it will help adjust your rear drums. Should help firm up the pedal a bit. Might as well inspect and clean your rear drums too.

When you drain the coolant, there are to drain plugs on the bottom of the engine, towards the back. 10mm required.

 

I would ad PCV valve,

And adjust the parking brake. The parking brake automatically adjusts the rear brake shoes, but only if it itself is properly adjusted and functional.

Grease your U joints (if you have grease-able joints)

 

If The frame was replaced for the rust issue, check the condition of the rear end housing. They also had rust issues also.

good luck, john

 

You are correct, I meant valve cover gaskets. Still getting a hang of this ;-)

 

The rear end housing does look "wet" so once the weather gets nicer and I can do more work on the truck I'm going to inspect it for pin hole leaks. I'm hoping it was just an over eager tech refilling it at some point recently, or maybe just a few minor pin holes that might be sealed with JB Weld. If it is major I'll probably come back to the forums for advice on replacing the cover or getting a new rear end from somewhere south of Tennessee.

 

You got a pic of it? If it's wet but not under the fill plug then it's probably got holes. There's a weld on cover that others have used. I'm not well versed in this "rust" thing everyone keeps going on about.

 

Now that the weather is getting nicer here in the northeast, and I found room in my garage, I placed a $550 order with RockAuto! Timing belt kit, radiator, serpentine belt, rack and pinion seal kit, etc!

Also, a buddy at work agreed to help me weld on the replacement rear diff cover. He did the same thing to his wife's 2005 Tacoma.