Rear Differential Going out

So, as much as it pains me to admit, all of my "smoking the tires" has come back to haunt me, or at least prey upon my pocketbook.

It all started around ~6 months ago. I was driving down a rural paved road around 50 MPH on a warm, and sunny day (something I haven't seen in a while now). I decided to roll my rear window down, upon rolling it down, I heard a light grinding noise coming from the rear of the truck. I began to try and isolate where the noise was coming from, by putting the truck in neutral while rolling, accelerating quickly, etc. At that time I came to the conclusion that my differential was acting up. I just wanted to pretend it wasn't going to be an issue, so I rolled the window back up and continued on my way.

Throughout the next 4 months the noise got louder and began to resemble the sound of spinning hunk of metal being lightly ground against another hunk of metal. It also developed this odd clunking, which was noticeable even with the windows up. So the clunk can be describes as this:

When I let off the gas for a second or so, something in the rear of the truck sounds like "clunk clunk". Then when I get back on the throttle again (even lightly), I hear the same "clunk clunk".

Now, the rear differential sounds like a small blender when I am driving under throttle and the clunking has gotten more pronounced.

Characteristics of the problem:

- The grinding noise is always there, it just gets louder under acceleration, and with speed. If I put my truck in Neutral, the noise is still there, but much quieter.

- I cannot hear the grinding noise unless the rear window is down.

- When turning and trying to accelerate hardly to get onto the highway, the powertrain feel like the gear are slipping kind of, but only on turns.

So, I am pretty sure my issue is that I have a worn carrier bearing. I deduced that from reading this article and observing the symptoms.

https://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-warrior/understanding-rear-differential-noise/

I would like to hope the issue is a U-Joint, but I am pretty sure that is not the case. Any advice on the matter is appreciated.

Also, any idea what my best option for repair might be. I was thinking of just buying a used rear differential for $1300 and swapping the whole thing out. I figured that might be easier than a rebuild, what do you think? I am not opposed to a solid rebuild kit either though.

 

The first thing I would do is remove the drain plug in the rear and your problem would be found there if it is the rear diff.

What year Tundra? I just put new gears and lockers in mine and have the originals taken out of the truck at 15K miles and located in Phoenix, AZ

 

Yeah, I was thinking about draining the oil to take a look at it this weekend.
It is a 2007 Tundra, with the 4.30 gears. It currently has about 190k miles.

 

+1 for draining the differential.

You could raise the truck off the wheels and get down to ground level while an assistant puts the truck in gear so you can listen for the sound and maybe pinpoint the location. Note, with the wheels off the ground, they will get up to speed with much less action on the throttle pedal, so take it easy. Needless to say, you have to absolutely support the truck while doing such a maneuver with no chance of it falling. And don’t get under it!!

Before you drain, take out the refill plug and check the fluid level with your finger to see if it is under filled. Should be just at the bottom of the refill plug opening. Make sure the truck is level when you do this. Note, always good practice to make sure the plugs to refill any fluid are loose before opening the drain plug.

Drain the fluid and carefully inspect what comes out. Perhaps even filter through some cloth or fine mesh, looking for metal.

While under the truck, check the u-joints for excess play. While a bit of a pain, you may want to consider dropping the driveshaft altogether to get a better look.

After you diagnose and correct to problem causing the noise, consider following the severe driving maintenance schedule for changing fluids. And don’t cheap out on the lubricants.


Greg

 

Are you the original owner? Any info on service history?

 

How much are you asking and price? My center bolt retainer pin failed which caused a “reign of destruction” on my spider-gear carrier ☠️ I’m not sure if I used the correct words buuuutttt here’s a picture..

 

That center bolt is “supposed to” sit with minimal movement....The spider-gear carrier is bored almost a 1/4inch over what it should be since the center bolt snapped in half and grinded harder than a stripper

 

If you do pull your driveshaft, make sure to mark it at the rear and in front with a grease marker, to ensure that you put it back exactly like it came out.

 

I do not think mine will fit. My locker said it was for a 2016 and up.

 

Ignoring the issue rather than swapping the diff fluid.... Bold Move Cotton!

 

Nah ignoring it burnt out the bearings first ☠️ Been there on a dodge

 

I appreciate the advice gentleman! I changed the rear differential fluid out myself around 1.5 years ago. I think I even wrote up a DIY article for this forum on the process. I am going to change the fluid out hopefully this coming up weekend. I will be curious to see how many metal fragments there are on it.

 

If and when you do get under the truck check the Carrier bearing during your driveshaft inspection, 6 months is a long time for a rear diff. And if you have to remove your pumpkin I have a few shortcuts and tips if needed.

 

A clunking noise sounds like a u-joint. If it's in your diff it's most likely the gears. Are you sure the fluid didn't leak out? I've seen plenty Toyotas that hand a plugged breather and the diff pushed the oil out through the pinion seal. Then the teeth wear down. I have seen that center pin for the spider gears get damaged but it usually locks up the rear diff and when you turn on pavement it snaps (or something else breaks). I'm not sure if spinning a rear tire would do it as I can tell you how much of that I've done over the years playing in the mud. I assumed it was a pin that just didn't get properly heat treated.

One thing you can do is block the truck so it can't roll and put it in neutral. While under the truck rotate the driveshaft. It should rotate, maybe a 1/8 of a turn (it's been a very long time so that might not be right). If it rotates more than that report back (that would most likely be a sign of worn gears). If it's anything other than the gears (like a carrier bearing) then you just got a golden opportunity to replace that open diff with a limited slip.

 

I will look into this and report back!

 

I'm also having the clunking noise going on when decelerating or accelerating and also very much hoping its the u joints instead of the diff. no grinding that I can hear but still not a comforting sound to hear while you're going 70 on the highway. I've also noticed its mostly in abrupt accel or decel like turning off cruise control without applying any pressure on the pedal. It happened about 20 minutes ago on my way home and was not a fun sound to hear. I tried slowly letting off the gas and heard nothing so I'm fairly confident its excess play in the u joints but I also know they wouldn't clunk 3-4 times in one second which scares me as i definitely cannot afford a new diff

 

Well, I changed the differential fluid out this weekend. I replaced it with 3.6 Qts of Redline Full Synthetic 75w85NS. When draining the fluid I noticed 1.5 grams of fine metallic build up on the magnet as well as a few small metal chips. See the picture below. The flakes in the upper left hand corner were the largest of the bunch.

The differential still makes that noise. However, I can feel that it rolls smoother now. The fluid was black, so it was definitely time to change it. I waited around 45k miles to change it.

 

That is exactly the clunking noise I am hearing. It has gotten progressively worse. I am trying to determine if the issue is the U-Joints or the differential. If I let off the accelerator I hear 3-5 abrupt clunks within a 1-second time frame. So I am not sure if the issue is the differential or not. Does anyone know if the U-Joints will clunk like that?

 

looking at a thread on tundra talk I think its our spider gear pin pushing into the carrier. I might see if my truck can make it until I can get my tax return and get an auburn LSD to fix the issue

 

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/tundra-rear-diff-problem.69982/

here's the thread.

 

Any updates on your end. My truck is starting to get much worse. Riding on the highway today I heard a lot of smaller clicks and clunks in a row that lasted for a few seconds at a time. And its getting much more consistent with the loud clicks on deceleration

 

No updates on my end. I have been experiencing the same thing as well. I hope the differential doesn't just lock up on me while I am driving on the highway.

 

See if you can find a Ring Gear Carrier (pumpkin) or compleate rear end at a local scrap yard, you can use this to find one.
https://www.uneedapart.com/
It's not hard to take the pumpkin out and can be out in in less than 1hr, install is about 2.5 hrs with beer.

 

Bump thread. 2007 4x4 SR5. Rear diff going out. Changed all the fluids when I got the truck last June. Has 175k on it now. Noticed the rear diff fluid most likely never been changed when I bought it. Always noticed a thump from rear end. Flushed the diff 5-6 times since I have had it. Every time has been metal flakes. Last 2 times I had a piece of shim drain out and time before that was a chunk of metal. Just plan on replacing the entire 3rd member. My question is, I have read several problems with the diff center pin walking out, is there something that can be done to prevent that from happening? Also anyone know where to get the complete assembled 3rd member for cheaper than here?

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-carrier-assembly-411100c061

 

Too bad someone cannot use my spare rear diff. Not the complete drop in replacement as the link showed but I have mine from a 2018 Platinum with 20K on the clock

 

Where are you located? Do you have just the center section?

 

lol

 

Way to resurrect a 4 year old post without adding anything of value!

 

I have a 2019 2wd Tundra with 54k. I’m an old guy so I just grandpa it around town. is it time to change the rear dif fluid???

One more question if I ca get to the guy that installed lockers… Does that effect fuel mileage?