Oil Change Issue

Can’t get the nut out of the housing, I don’t know who torqued this. I literally took the filter off using it. Can I buy a new one from a part store? Any suggestions on how to get it off?

Tango in advance.

 

I would leave it alone and put it back on the Tundra. Then I would order a new aluminum filter housing. Then on your next oil change, you can apply some force to the plastic housing to get the drain plug out and then use the aluminum filter housing.

 

I would think you could hold the canister with a pipe wrench or large pliers and use the 3/8 ratchet drive to remove.

Many have upgraded to the aluminum canister.

 

Why do you want to get the nut out? I purposely torqued the shit out of the nut so it'd stay in, then you don't need any special tools to remove the housing. Just throw an extension up there and hold a drip pan under it and the whole process is painless and easy.

 

^ this. Many swap out this plastic housing for the aluminum. I did on my first oil change.

 

By removing that nut, it allows you access to drain the oil filter housing using the “nipple” that comes with the new oil filter, making the job so much cleaner. Yes, you can just remove the whole housing like the OP had to do, but that’s far more messy, from my experience (mine was over-torqued as well and I went thru this).

 

Had the same issue on my Tacoma and my moms rav4. The dealers seem to be using that to tighten the canister

I replaced mine with the aluminum housing. I had to clamp the plastic one in a vice and eventually got it out. I’m amazed nothing broke, the torque spec is 10 ft lbs and it was more like 100

 

Yea I've seen all the posts where people go to huge lengths to avoid getting a drop of oil on their hands. To each their own, I've never had a huge mess and would rather make the whole process quicker and more efficient.

 

As suggested by @gdiep, get a new aluminum housing with the plug and install at your next change. Don't forget to swap the center tube out of your original plastic housing.

That drain plug is definitely in there to stay, as evidenced by deformation of the sides of the 3/8" square drive. If you buy the Toyota filter, it will come with the o-rings for the drain plug and the housing (and, of course, it also comes with the drain spigot, which I found next to useless).

$42 Genuine OEM Toyota New Oil Filter Housing Cap + Plug 15620-31060 15643-31050

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Housing-15620-31060-15643-31050/dp/B07984MX2G/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1G0VAHU46U10X&keywords=toyota+oil+filter+housing&qid=1577725901&sprefix=Toyota+oil+filter+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-8

$15 Genuine Genuine Toyota Engine Oil Filter 04152-YZZA4

https://www.amazon.com/Set-Toyota-0...2V3765XZBWJ&psc=1&refRID=2764RGJSP2V3765XZBWJ

 

This

 

I got the aluminum housing just didn’t come with that nut hence why I was trying to remove. Tried everything but it forged to the previous plastic. Ended up going to the dealership and buying the nut. Want it removable for my next as I put the Fumoto valve in. Can’t wait to change again

Thanks all for the input.

 

You plan to screw the Fumoto valve directly into the filter housing drain hole? Assuming that the drain plug and the Fumoto valve has the same thread, does the Fumoto valve have enough threaded length to depress the spring-loaded check plate? If it doesn't, the Fumoto valve isn't going to drain any additional oil not already drained by simply removing the drain plug.

 

Just changed the oil this weekend, already installed the fumoto valve and aluminum housing. Quick, easy and no mess. Open valve above 5 gallon pail and drain oil out of aluminum housing. By the time filter area is cleaned off, new filter and installed. Oil valve closed and time to add new oil. Not a drop on the concrete. Fumoto valve is the way to go along with the aluminum housing. Keep the original plastic one in a ziplock bag on the shelf as a replacement ( I don't know why). Well worth the money for those upgrades

 

I think I’m gonna have to give that Fumoto valve a try!

 

When you need to remove the drain cap and it wont come off just leave it on and give it a zap with an impact gun if only a 1/2 inch, get an adapter to 3/8.
It is advisable to replace that oring evey now and then because it gets hard and flat then leak. Just saying

 

@Prostar 190 what's the one you have? Thought I'd tag you in on this, I know you have a different filter housing

 

Jowett Performance

 

@Major ^

 

Oh my my, where can I buy?

 

When I bought mine it was to tight that a 1/2" breaker bar and the housing in a vise couldn't get it off.

I bought one of these and its awesome. Mine came with the socket.

https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

He's sold out at the moment but he is really good at customer service and getting things to you fast..

 

I don't know when he's going to run another batch but Jowett Performance is who makes them.

 

Oh my my...I need that! Thanks fellas!

 

Nah, just the pan. I would like one like the Jowett Filter Housing though.

 

I think the plastic ones swell up. I couldn't believe how much effort it took to remove the cover that is only supposed to be tightened to 20 or so lbs.

 

I switched mine out with a metal one. I leave the filter drain plug in and spin the whole assembly off like a regular filter.

 

I've been waiting since March 2019. Brian told me he would be restocking soon and to text him.
I texted him in May, August, September and December...........No response

 

Maybe we could approach with a group buy.

 

That would be nice but he stopped replying.

 

Just emailed Brian fro website. Will see if he responds.