New brakes, still shaking.

I think I know the answer but I want your opinions:
My question: would you have the rotor turned or do anything to the pads to ensure there is no runout in either? I’m thinking they are so new that that should not be an issue but: what would you do?

I put on brand new EBC rotors and pads on Christmas. I have driven maybe 200 miles. I feel like I am starting to get the same shaky feeling I had before (reason why I replaced everything). It feels like it’s coming from the drivers side specifically. When I was working on them it seemed like the caliper slide pins on the drivers side were tweaked/ bent ever so slightly and it feels like that’s the side the shaking has always come from. I’m thinking the pins being bent are causing uneven braking leading to the shake.
I’m getting new pins today to hopefully remedy the issue.

Thanks.

 

Did you do the break in procedure? Chance the wheels are out of balance? Try to rotate the tires and see if the shaking comes from a different side.

 

With ebc pads and you feeling the same shake, I feel you are on the right path of a pre-existing condition.

 

I have shaking issues as well. Going to put my OEM pads and rotors back until I get a new setup. When I painted my calipers, I did pull my pins and cleaned them up with a light grit sandpaper to smooth them out.

 

You could have a bad tire rod or ball joint even.

 

Did you replace the rear rotors as well?

 

.

 

Would you have the new rotors machined though? With less than 200 miles?

 

No chance the tires are out of balance. Lol. Truck rolls smooth even at highway speeds.

Nope. Checked them when the truck was in the air. It only shakes when pressing the brakes.

 

Would a bad bearing only shake while braking?

 

If you think it would be easy enough to pull then go ahead just for piece of mind. Personally, I wouldn’t due to having the same issue before and after a rotor change. But I’ve been burned by thinking like that before....

 

I’m gonna try the new pins first then if nothing gets better I will have the rotors turned.
My 2nd truck is down right now anyway so it’d be a pain in the butt to get between here and the parts store.

 

It's the rotors that warp. This is the first thing you check.

 

No, I'd check them first with this (good $10 investment for all your future rotors!): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake...Measuring-TQ9B2/174122369446?epid=26035759970

Then if they are out of round, I'd try returning/exchanging them.

Luck and enjoy those Toyotas. : ^ ))))

 

That tool is for checking the rotor thickness for wear. This is the tool (link) needed to check rotor "run-out", which is the cause of shudder and vibration on braking. Similar instruments are available just as cheaply from Harbor Freight.

$36 PWWDADA All Industrial Tool Supply TR72020 Dial Indicator (Magnetic Base and Point Precision Inspection Set), 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/All-Industrial-Tool-Supply-TR72020/dp/B002YPHT76/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32OE6GV3PA185&keywords=dial+indicator+with+magnetic+base&qid=1577547144&sprefix=dial+indi%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3

How to check rotor run-out:
(1) Remove the wheel.
(2) Reinstall and TORQUE the lug nuts. (If you want to do this once, I would remove the rotor and power wire brush hub and rotor.)
(3) Mount the magnetic base on the UCA, and position linkage such that stylus of dial indicator is touching the face of the rotor.
(4) Turn the indicator dial to zero the dial at needle.
(5) Turn rotor through one full revolution, noting and recording extreme (-) and (+) readings.
(6) Add numerical values of the two extreme readings together (forget signs). That number is your rotor's total "run-out".

Toyota's allowable run-out for Tundra front rotor is 0.002" (pretty freakin' tight). Rear rotor allowable runout is 0.008". See what I mean in (2) above?

On your turning question, I absolutely would NOT pay to have the rotors turned. If you have power cleaned all rust and scale off the mounting surfaces, and have torqued the lug nuts before the runout measurement, I would warranty return them if run-out exceeds Toyota's allowable. New rotors should not warp that quickly.

 

My very bad, thanks for correcting! : ^ )))

 

NBD, just making sure @Scuba knows how to figure this out.

I have a dial indicator and a digital micrometer caliper that I need about as often as a "blue moon". But...if you DO need them, nothing else will get the job done. They're made in China, but I've been impressed with the accuracy AND the price. Everyone can afford them now.

 

I would start with what Lakeman said. Clean the hub to make sure that the rotor is sitting flat on the hub. Do a runout check on the hub first. Then install the rotor and do a runout on the rotor installed. If the rotor is out of spec I would warranty it. If you find that the hub has too much runout you could replace it or they make shims to correct it if it is not too bad.

Since you are going to have it apart anyway I would put in a new set of pins.

 

the shop you take them to get turned should check to see if they even need turning. they'll put them on the machine and check for warpage. well, they should. since they shouldn't be hard to remove at 200mi just pop them off and take them in for a check. if they are warped, return them to whoever you bought them from. that shouldn't happen at only 200mi.

 

Good advice.

The only problem I have with turning them, outside them being brand new, is that Tundra rotors start life thinner and subject to warping from day one. Removing material to true the surface just makes the warping tendency worse. The OEM design is more committed to weight saving than reliability. No doubt guys with impact wrenches are responsible for a lot of owner headaches, but if I had just bought new rotors to fix brake shudder, I wouldn't accept starting out with a handicap.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice.
I took the wheel off and noticed the outside edges of the rotor had much less wear than closer to the center.
That tells me for sure the pads were sticking close to the edges because the bent pin.
I swapped the pads around in the caliper as well since I had it apart.
I'll see how it works from here and update later.

FYI I did clean the hubs before putting the new rotors on. I did everything right that you should do on a Tundra when putting new brake pads and rotors. But after feeling the same vibe only after the first 100 miles, and feeling it the LF wheel specifically, I knew the pins had to be causing un-even wear on that side. I'm going to drive it for another 50 miles or so and if it doesn't get better I will have the rotors turned.

 

Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the wheels? Did you clean the hub and wheel mounting surface of rust?

 

Dear Old Fart,
Yes.
Signed, young whipper snapper.

 

Did you clean the hub off with a roloc disc? A lot of times when I’m dealing with vibrations it’s because the hub was not cleaned off prior to installing the new rotors

if you have I would have the rotors cut on the truck to account for hub runout.

 

Good man!!! Most don’t..

 

Most likely truck is shaking because of brake rotors, could be rotor installed incorrectly or warped rotor.
Before doing anything I would recommend bedding the brakes, make sure that brakes are installed correctly though and brake retainers are lubricated.

 

It seems like everyone misunderstood the point of me starting the thread.
I know why it’s shaking: uneven brake pad to rotor contact due to bent pins on the left side. Everyone guessing this that and the other missed that. But I appreciate everyone taking their time to try and help.

My one and only question was “would you have the new rotors turned due to possible uneven pad to rotor contact after only 100-200 miles?” Not: why it’s shaking.
It drove great for the first 100 or so miles with no vibes, but once the pads started wearing unevenly it started vibrating while braking.

Thanks everyone who chimed in.

 

Got it
I would not worry about new rotors after few hundred miles, but I would replace troubled brake pads for sure, not just pin

 

Why didn't you say so?...My answer is a big, resounding "NO" for reasons you probably didn't consider.