2020 Tundra Keyless Entry/Remote Start Door Handle Swap Write-up

Someone commented on my build thread about composing a write-up for swapping the door handles on the 2020 Toyota Tundra with remote start/keyless entry. It's a tad different from just popping the door plug out and using a T30 torx bit to disassemble. This is my first attempt at a write up, so if it sucks....oh well. Admins please move if this isn't the appropriate forum to post in.

Most pictures are reference the passenger side first, with driver side changed ever so slightly. Rear doors are same as the other write-ups you can find (no electronic plugs, just pop the seal, T30 to remove the screw, pop and replace handles).

Lets begin.

Step 1:
Make friends with @Roman. Dude is insane with the parts knowledge and readily answers DMs if you're in need of his help. Ordered my "package" of keyless entry/remote start door handle parts from his Ultimate OEM thread posted here https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-oem-toyota-parts-thread.10707/.

If you're lazy like me, just click here --> https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...tton-start-models-tundradoorhandlessmartentry . After installing and triple checking, I assure you these work. Long story short, these are from the Sequoia models. All parts are plug and play.

Step 2:
Get yourself some tools. I'm a picture guy because words are hard, so see below.
Needed:
-Flat head/phillips screw driver
-T30 Torx bit (screwdriver or socket, either works)
-Trim pry tools (see pic for a set I picked up on Amazon for $15 and they've been great)
-Knife/scissors
-3M clear tape


Step 3:
Remove door plugs. Trim tool preferred so the plug isn't destroyed or paint marked, but do your thing.


Step 4:
Door panel removal. There are write-ups for this out there, but I'll post one here so it's all together. Door is held on by pop clips, 2 phillips screws, a plastic push pin, and the trim piece for your window/lock functions. Photos for locations of these. Remove the felt from the door and you'll see one phillips screw beneath it (remove the screw).

The plastic cover behind the door handle pops out. Slightly open the door handle and use a trim tool of your choice to remove it (just pops out). This will expose another phillips screw (remove this screw).



The trim piece with your electronic functions just pops up. Again, this is the passenger side. Use a trim tool and work it around to pop it up and disconnect your electronics. Pictured below is the underside so you can see how it attaches. Disengage both wiring harnesses and set the assembly aside.



Use a trim tool to then remove the plastic cover that allows access to your tweeter and/or mirror. Three anchoring clips hold it in. Just work the tool around and you'll hear them disengage. Backside pictured to show what you're working with. Unclip your tweeter if you've got one here and remove the cover completely. Pop out the push pin below the tweeter cover by pushing the center pin inward to release the tension and remove it.





From here, use a trim tool to disengage the clips holding the door in. I just started bottom right hand side and gently worked my way around using the tool or my hands. Once all are disengaged, lift up and out to remove the door panel from the sheet metal lip near the window seal. Inside you'll find two lead anchors for your door handle/lock mechanism. Just pop the plastic housing out (white on top, green on bottom) and slide the ball out of the groove to free them. Remove the panel completely and place somewhere safe.

Lead anchors:


The inside of the door:

Step 5:
The interior of the door is "sealed" with plastic from factory and a black silicon adhesive around it. Instead of removing this and replacing completely (what you would have to do if you wanted it to look completely factory), I used a knife to puncture a small hole in the plastic and some scissors to create a 3 sided "box" to be able to access the interior electronic clip for the keyless entry system. Be careful as the door lock/handle lead anchors have their own factory slit where they slide through the plastic so you don't want to get too close to this. As you can see, my first go at this (since I didn't know what I was going to see inside) was much too large for what I needed. For driver's side, I made a smaller box about half this side (enough room to work my hand in).


Taped up for access.


Step 6:
The wiring harness is held into an anchor on the door. The wires are wrapped around plastic posts to keep them taught inside the door. Slide the harness towards the door jam to release the anchor.


Unwind the wiring from the plastic posts (but REMEMBER how it looks) and pull closer for easier access. Disconnect the female and male plugs from one another.


Step 7:
From here, it's simple. Use a trim tool to remove the plastic cap (just pops out). Slide the door handle out and away from the door. Make sure you feed your wiring through the hole with it.



Your factory handles will have excess grease on them. Wipe them off and reapply to your new door handles or apply your own grease to keep them moving freely.



Step 8 (Reassembly Simplified):
"Hard" part is over. Now it's time to reassemble everything. With everything lubed up, reinsert your new handles into the access port and feed your wiring through the hole. Once in, slide the door handle towards the door jam to secure it and pop your door cap into place. Route your new door handle's wiring around the plastic posts as it came from factory, clip the male/female ports together, and slide the white harness assembly back into its anchor point to secure it. Pop your new door cap into place.

Tighten your T30 screw inside the door to finish it off. Test and retest the keyless entry function at this point. Shut the door, lock it, wait a few seconds, and with keys on your person try and open the door (should work as intended from factory).

From this point, I used 3M packing tape to secure the cut portion of the plastic back to itself. Simply taped the flap first and lined it up to tape it flat and in line with the rest of the plastic. Looks flush, clean, and does the job without having to rip out the plastic liner, order a new one for what I'm assuming would be $858 and my left arm from Toyota, remove silicon sealant, and replace the whole thing.

Holding your door panel, reinsert the lock/handle lead anchor balls into place and pop their plastic anchors into the appropriate plastic anchor point. Replace the door panel by starting at the top and hooking the top to the door's sheet metal at the top near the window seal. Make sure your door wiring harness is accessible (just hung mine from the door). Once secure, work your way around the door panel popping the panel back into the holes in the door. If aligned right, you should see lime green/yellow markers where your phillips screws are go (see below).




Once everything is secured by the door's anchors, reinsert your phillips screws and pop rivet. Tight is tight; don't over-torque and crack your plastics. Plug your wiring harness back into the panel containing your lock/window functions and pop the assembly back into place. Plug your tweeter (if applicable) back in and pop the triangle trim panel back in. Everything should now be complete. Test your door lock, handle, and window functions to ensure they're working right. Retest the keyless entry/remote start functions to ensure you didn't just waste your time.

Step 9:
Do the other door. Only have step-by-step photos of the passenger side. Attaching some photos down below to show the differences of the driver's door, but everything is the same.

Driver's Side Door Panel Differentiation
The only main difference with the driver's side door is the wiring harness for the windows/lock functions. There is one larger wiring harness instead of two smaller ones. Simply remove and disengage it.



Driver's side door also just has clear plastic. Guess I should have started with this side and could have avoided such a large hole being cut in the plastic on the passenger side lol. Oh well, who cares. Out of sight, out of mind.



Driver's door has a key hole locking mechanism. It is removed the same, however the cap pops off the locking mechanism and gets replaced.




Step 10 (arguably the most important step):
Don't let your wife know how much four f*****g door handles cost you.

Hope all this made sense!

 

Can't wait, one of my next mods! Thanks, Ckatz for such a detailed write up! I just wish the new handles did not cost as much as they are!

 

Well done @Ckatz53

 

Will this mod work on a 2019?

 

If it has the remote start/keyless entry system already, then yes.

 

Very nice. I'm going to include a link to this thread in the Ultimate parts thread.

 

@Ckatz53 thank you sir

 

Now we need this and the push button start retrofitted into earlier models. C'mon you wiring gurus out there, let's make it happen

 

Ckatz do you have the part number on the handles?

 

I do not. @Roman would know.

 

Got them listed in this thread:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-oem-toyota-parts-thread.10707/

 

Great write up!
On a side note, if I ever trade for a newer truck, I’ll make sure to get a “sport” model with the color matched handles already...

 

So this mod is only to basically change to color matched handles, if you already have the 2020 with the keyless entry, you cannot retrofit to trucks with the "dumb" handle and conventional key, correct?

 

It's to swap handles

This is simply a write up for how to swap the front handles for keyless entry systems from factory. I'm assuming someone could get the correct wiring and entry system to install these on an older model as anything is possible, but this is a simple swap DIY as people have asked me how the swap went on my 2020.

 

I'm guessing it's impossible to do this without removing the door panel?

 

Yeah. No other way to access the wiring harness inside.

 

Great guide!

Followed this to swap my handles and it went flawlessly.

thanks for the write up.

 

Did you went with color matched or chrome door handles?

 

Color matched. My limited came with Chrome/MGM and I wanted all MGM handles.

 

I'll buy the chrome door handles off of you if you wanna sell it.

 

DM'd you

 

For 2019 you don't need to do this, the door handles don't have any wires connected to them. All you need is this, https://www.sparksparts.com/accesso...handles-crewmax-69210-0c030-kitcr?parent=1325.

 

Thanks for the write-up @Ckatz53 - Just finished mine today following your instructions. One step closer to full chrome delete.

Before:


After:

 

Glad I could help. Looks great!

 

Awesome write up, thanks man!

 

Great write up, was looking for a solution for my chrome delete on my 2020. I also have a Toyota parts manager here locally who will be interested to know how to do this for their trucks, he's doing two Tundras all blackout for the showroom but using vinyl wrap on the door handles.... I will have to get him over to @Roman for the handles and a couple of other things. You have a great build going BTW. Just starting mine. Great color too!

 

@Ckatz53 so I just got my parts and was thinking would it be possible to splice the wire and avoid having to remove the door panel?

 

It's a wiring harness and plug so I wouldn't. Still would have to remove the door panel and open up the body plastic to access the wiring harness for the old handles.

 

@Ckatz53 great write up! Would love to do this at some point. Just FYI on the door panel plastic we take a razor and run it behind the plastic through the silicon as we pull the plastic away. Works better when the temperature is not super hot or cold out. Then when you are done just line the silicon back up and stick it back on. You would never even know someone had been in there.