ECU chip that can increase power?

Depends on how much he drives. Gen 1 trucks had stock 3.90 gears right...4.88 is a lot of rpms with 33’s

We need @Darkness with his urinal cartoon

 

Yep, youre right. I just went and looked through my records and I purchased 4.56 gears. I confused it with another truck I had on 35s. It was a very nice improvement for towing.

 

I think we determined that unless you go up to 35's or maybe 34's it's really not worth regearing. You won't see a ton of benefit from gegearing with 33's.

 

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-62270-assembled-3rds-clamshells.html

 

I'm going with heavy 33s and adding alot of weight, but I'm not sure how much yet. Once I settle on the amount of weight we'll see, but if I go all out I'm anticipating a possible regear to 4.56s. Obviously I need to try it with the 33s and extra weight stock first.

This is THE page for figuring out what re-gearing will suit you best if anybody is considering it. It takes a little while to figure out all the inputs, as in what you need to input and what you don't, but once you do, it's awesome. Don't let the name full you, it's not just for Jeeps.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

This is my truck comparing stock tires (265/65r16) to my new 255/80r17s (33s) with stock gearing (3.901)



Now, here it is comparing stock tires/gearing to 33s with 4.56s





Even with 35s 4.56 gears are still running higher rpms than the stock setup...so 4.88s would be way to short for 33s IMHO

 

Overgearing is ok. Tire diameter isn’t everything. As you mentioned weight is a big deal. And also air resistance, when we lift the front end up and do bigger tires we are pushing more air

 

If you decide to use an LSD for off-roading, make sure it's a torsen LSD like the TruTrac....IMHO clutch pack LSDs like our stock ones are great for street use, but not very effective for an off-road environment...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x40WGUtdaLI&feature=youtu.be

 

If you're going to pay for the labor to install an LSD, wouldn't it make a lot more sense to install a locker?

 

Depends on your needs...a TruTrac LSD costs about $500...the ARB is at least $1,300 in parts once you factor in everything you need besides just the locker itself ($900)...that is before you get to the additional labor cost for setting up an air locker relative to the TruTrac.

Plus the TruTrac is something that benefits you every day, not just on the trail.

 

Yep, that’s your best bet right there. Don’t even mess with the intake.

 

I put on an Airaid intake tube because I found it super cheap. Uses the stock intake box and a high flow filter and basically removes all the extra air channels that quiet the intake and slow down the air for a direct shot. According to a dyno video I saw for the k&n version of the intake tube on a.firsr gen.tundra, it was good for 9hp on the top end. So basically you'll only use it while passing. But I figured why not, especially since it was cheap and I'm planning to install long tube headers. Will be interested to see if it truly has a nice scavenging effect and I figured the intake tube couldn't hurt to add to that effect if possible.
However I've run a "cold air" intake before and always montiored the intake air temps on my scan guage 2 and I wouldn't recommend a CAI unless if has its own airbox, but it's cheaper just to go the route I did

 

Oh I have a different one for these occasions

 

I don't trust arb air locker. I know lots of guys don't have problems with them but the only thing keeping that 150 psi out of your axle is a little o ring.

On the gears topic it isn't just diameter of the tires but the increased weight on the tread, at the furthest outside circumference providing more resistance. When I was in high school a science teacher had this turntable thing you could stand on and it would spin you. You hold a 5lb weight in each hand and extend your arms, the machine slows down, you put the weight to your chest and it speeds up. A 33" all terrain or mud terrain not only has more weight than a stock tire, but its holding that weight further out.

Going a little extra on gearing isn't a bad idea when you are running much heavier and taller tires.

 

Gen 1 trucks have more locker options than arb at least

 

Late to this thread..running a SC so 8psi, 170 plus HP and torque...what’s the concern about far less increase?

 

I beg to differ, I couldn’t stand my 2002 after putting 33x11.5 tires on it. I knew right away that something needed to be done. So I tracked down a used gear pig with 4.30’s and it helped a ton. When I get ready, I’ll be stepping up to 4.56 with a tru trac. However, the vvti 4.7 access cab can turn some heavy shit and not skip a beat. Ask me how I know

Tundras running 33 inch tires with modest towing involved should/could be regeared as follows.

00-04 access cab = 4.56
05-06 vvti access cab = regear questionable
2004 double cab = 4.88
05-06 double cab = 4.56 or 4.88

 

Anyone who doubts gears has never tried them. No motor mod will ever be as good as getting your rpm in the proper range

 

Seems reviews are mixed on this(like all mods I guess). We talked about it in length before.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/lets-talk-about-re-gearing.49875/

I'm not going to even consider it again unless I go up in tire size.

 

Here you go @Hbjeff

 

I feel like you're agreeing and disagreeing with me at the same time. Especially with the mention of the urinal meme.
I don't own a first gen tundra but I do own a 99 Tacoma which is actually very similar to the first gen Tundras. Especially in the fact that they are underpowered. I have researched gearing many, many times. The first gen Tundras came with 3.90's, 4.10's, and 4.30's depending on engine/ cab combo.
When re-gearing it is a good idea to also factor in that you're adding more weight. Not just height of the tire. Due to the added weight it is a good idea to over gear the truck to compensate for the weight. Getting back to "stock" rpms isn't what you should be looking to do. Getting the RPMS higher than stock at the same speed will put you closer to the peak HP which will help with any added weight of taller tires and off-road armor.
I'd still rec. 4.88's vs 4.56's but then again I'm the guy who went from 4.10 to 5.29's for 33's.

 

So...forgive my ignorance.......but why not just turn overdrive off if you want higher revs when cruising?

 

Well, since you two posted the good ones, I'll just go with the usual.

 

One more for good measure

 

Or, use the column shift method to keep yourself in the band?

I’ve suggested this before and got the ‘he’s a hand model giggle don’t listen to him’. Tee heee hee.

On my A340f transmission with 32.3796” tires on the 3.90 or is it (3.91 ratio?) it is first gear that could use some help. Passing at highway speed on stock gears has always been beautiful. No problem on my truck.

The hand model conclusion after much meditations was:

1) Regearing would be nice for city driving/towing, but not highway driving which the 3.9? gears do very well. Explains my 17-18 mpg on just straight highway driving. This regearing would fit my driving profile as I’m mostly city.

2) Regearing is expensive and not worth the cost for me. It would make the truck a little funner to drive than it already is, but too much work $.

3) Use stick column to shift to hold higher rpms to mimic regearing (not exact but you understand).

4) My truck drives very well with the stock gears and I’m not going bigger tire size wise. All things considered its a no go.

5) Regearing would increase my street cred, but I already have a ton to spare. Hahhahaa

 

@Aerindel that would work in limited scenarios, like driving up a grade at 50mph and don't want to be low RPM or shift hard. Imagine having that powerband all the time, that is what lower gears is like.

@Professional Hand Model those are fair points, gears are not for everyone.

 

I studied that power band/RPM band to tire size/gear size chart and realized there are trade offs to be made. I’d very much consider regearing if one off my diffs went bad. Even then it would be hard to justify as its a swap for swap on one versus total redo on both (diffs) for 4WD.