6112 and bed bounce

I currently have 6112 set on the highest settings and 5160 in the rear. I drive on concrete roads and have a fair amount of bed bounce. If I lowered the settings to the middle setting will that help dramatically with the bed bounce? I would love to hear from people that drive on the concrete roads with the 6112 set in the middle. Thank you

 

I don’t think switching back will be that much better ride and especially not for $400. I started at 1.9 and ended up maxing it out. Most people who have or plan on getting bigger tires end up on the top setting anyway.

I say deal with it and take your ire pressure down around 35 to see if that helps. Spend the $400 on something else.

Front shocks shouldn’t have much effect on the rear bed bounce. Some people say that rear shackles with poly bushings help but that’ll give you a little rear lift

 

Could replacing my tires help? I have Open Country 305/ 70R 17. They have almost 30 k on them

 

Something that helped for me was upgrading to coachbuilder shackles and poly bushings in the leaf springs. I think the poly bushings helped with the majority of that. Not a 100% fixed but it definitely smooths things out.

 

Yes, I did that as well just forgot to mention it. Thanks

 

Nothing will help unless you change your leaf packs or load down the rear end.

 

I also remember reading that one way to curb bed bounce is to loosen your spare tire a scoach. If I have time later, I'll try to find the exact advice, but something about the spare tire bounce offsetting the bed bounce. There's one stretch of highway that gives me the bounces as well, but I don't go that way often enough. Next time I know I'm going that way, I'll give the spare a little lowering and found out if it's true. Good luck!

 

I run 1.9" with E rated Nittos and have approx the same amount of bounce I had stock. I have not swapped out the leaf spring bushings yet.

 

I have tried multiple things since 2008 and only one really helped a bit was the coachbuilder shackles with bushings......that's just the design of Toyota

 

A little bit of weight helps out in the bed over the axel.

 

This is my second Tundra since 07 and on my first one I put the Fox shocks all the way around and that cured it. I got talked into the 6112 as I wished I would have stuck to my guns on my current Tundra and stayed with Fox the second time around. I will never make that mistake again. Thanks for the replies and saving me 400 bucks. I guess I will just deal with it until the new Tundra is released and proven.

 

I'm not sure the 6112s have anything to do with bed bounce. Is your front end bouncing?

 

found a write up on bed bounce. After reading up on it just now, it looks like this won't cure it, but greatly improve it.


here's what I found,





Hello everyone. I am the owner of a 2007 Tundra double cab 4X4 with the 5.7 engine. I have noticed the bed vibration since shortly after purchasing the truck in July. I had some time on my hands the other day, so I got up under the truck to see if I could identify the source of the vibration. Those of you who own this truck can go and grab the rear bumper and shake it up and down vigorously and you will observe independent motions of the bed and the cab. I began to realize that the frame of this truck has a harmonic frequency with a pivot point between the engine/transmission area and the rear axle area of the frame. (Visualize a guitar string.) You can get into the bed of the truck and stand directly over the rear axle and jump up and down, and you will find that it is almost impossible to make the same vibration that you can easily achieve by applying pulsating pressure to the bumper or open tailgate.

I thought about the idea of attaching some sort of weight to the rear bumper area, but as I considered the idea, I realized that this would only change the frequency of the vibration, but would not necessarily dampen it. It might even make the vibration more intense in the cab. So I thought about the idea of somehow canceling out the harmonics of the frame by creating a dampening device with a slightly different harmonic frequency attached to the area of the frame behind the rear axle as close to the bumper as possible. The logic here is that if you could CAUSE the frame to vibrate from this point, then it should be possible to DAMPEN the vibration from the same point.

I decided to use the spare tire for this purpose so as not to increase the weight of the vehicle. I lowered the spare tire a few inches from the frame, and I cut out two pieces of high density rubber foam and placed them in between the tire and the part of the frame that the tire is pressed against. (I used one of those kneeling pads that you use for working on hard surfaces on your knees.)

The pad:

(Click for larger view)


(Click for larger view)

There are four points at which the tire contacts the frame. I placed the foam on the rear points and let the front portion of the tire remain in its original position against the brackets that prevent the tire from moving forward. I then re-tightened the tire to where the foam was snug between the tire and the frame. (The tire should be tight enough that it does not rattle.) The tire holder at the end of the cable is spring loaded so it will accommodate some slight movement.

-Matthew Davis





the article gets cut off here, but I think it's enough to understand.