Installing Toytecs; cant get bottom in the cup??

Went to install my BOSS kit, noticed that Toytec says no spacers on the top, but I know plenty of you all are using those. I was going to run 2 CB shims on drivers side and 1 on pass.

I was totally unable to get the bottom of the coilover into the cup/seat. It wouldn’t get up over that lip! I had the bottom of the ball joint separated from the spindle and I was standing on a pry bar that was stuck in the lower control arm...still couldn’t get the bottom of the coilover over that lip to seat it. Tried with 1 shim on drivers side and I could barely get it over but then the heim joint kept going in crooked.

Any suggestions?? I kinda don’t want to loosen the lower control arm bolts because they’re alignment bolts.

 

Any time I have done this to my truck yes I have a 6" lift a little different but I have always had to loosen the lower arm. I know exactly what you are going threw and the first time myself and a buddy did mine we pulled so hard that the CV axle got pulled out of socket. Really not worth it I would just lossen anything you need to then get an alignment.

 

I have had my fun with that. Btw I ended up replacing the CV axle that day .

 

You have to loosen the LCA cam bolt. You’re fighting a losing battle otherwise. You need an alignment anyway and you’re not going to affect anything dramatically by loosening it.

 

Yeah I could tell it was because the inside LCA bushing was twisting. Just really didn’t want to mess with the alignment bolts today lol. I’ll tackle it next weekend and see if that’ll do the trick.

 

@Danman34 Fair enough! I’ll do that then lol.

 

Mark the current position of the bolt with a sharpie. Tighten it back to that mark. You’re really not going to mess anything up by just loosening it a bit. You’re not taking the bolt out. Just loosening it a smidge.

 

Read my mind exactly lol!

 

I’m actually scared of messing up the CV when I do mine. I think it has a 3 inch spacer. Gonna be fighting the same thing when I remove them to put in my coilovers.

 

Do not loosen the uca from the spindle and you should be fine. Loosening the LCA is the way to go.

Toyota has a step by step instruction on installing the TRD Pro shocks and loosening the LCA is what they do as well.

 

Gotta replace UCA at same time.

 

Then do the UCA first. Do not remove the lower ball joint connection on the spindle or the tie rod. Then you can remove the uca and replace without having the spindle move what so ever.

 

Gotcha! I will do it to it.

 

So I also have an RX7 that I swapped an LS1 from a Vette. Put a Ford 8.8 rear end in it so I have to customize axles. It’s actually really hard to pop the knuckle out of the outer CV joint. Mainly because there’s a snap ring in there you have to take out first. I wouldn’t be so worried about the axle popping out as I would be snapping the ABS sensor wires.

 

Feel your pain. Been there too. I just replaced my coil overs for the 2nd time. I learned a bit more for the next go around. Loosening lca in driver's side worked like a champ. Passenger? Nope! I took a ratchet strap and connected the passenger lca to the finished driver's side. After a bit of sweat and cursing it finally broke free and gave me the needed room.

 

If you happen to have a fork, it fit perfectly and gave me the leverage I needed. If you've been skipping leg day, forget it ! Lol

 

Stuck the end of my pry bar in here and was standing on it and bouncing up and down and still couldn’t get it in hahaha.

 

Not doubting ya brother ! but you won't get good leverage from that angle..That angle will put you at either 8 or 4..You need to be at 6 o'clock..

I didn't loosen my LCA and I did it myself.

 

I think there are some pics in my build thread below that show how to get it in there. It's a bitch.

 

Here it is https://www.tundras.com/threads/sass-will-it-fit-in-the-garage-build.31002/page-3#post-795821

 

Hahaha holy crap that’s nuts.

 

I would need to widen my garage about 8 feet for that.