LSD was working

I changed my rear diff fluid about a week or so ago with some lucas oil, after that my chatter stopped when turning a corner all was good. I did power brake it on dry pavement a couple times nothing to harsh just to check the LSD and it left 2 scratch marks. A few times I put 1 wheel on gravel and the other on pavement and gunned it, the tire on the gravel spun a little then I could hear my drivers side start hooking up on the pavement. All was good. Went and did some work in the mountains, was going up our driveway and this happened. It is very sandy soft dirt so I dont know if that has to do with it. I didn't add extra additive. Maybe LSD is just getting old she does have 213,XXX miles .

 

I can remember wayyyy back in my college days when that was true also....about LSD that is

 

A good trip can go for 20 hours....

 

Timothy Leary “turn on, tune in, and drop out.” Lol, the days!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLC-y3r66Ys

 

200k plus miles I wouldn’t feel like she wore out early! Throw in a true trac and youll be set!

 

That's a lot of miles. LSD will only do so much, you can still get stuck that way.

 

The fact that one side just stood still means the clutch packs are toast

 

Holler at me if you need a replacement lsd I’m in Colorado and have one from an 05

 

surprisingly mine at 193k seems to be strong still. but, we shall see if it keeps working.

 

Not necessarily. He’s got that left side rear tire stuffed pretty hard. Clutches will only hold so much. It will never act like a true locker. But at his mileage that very well could’ve finished it off. I had a truck with an LSD that would lay 11s all day long, but if I stuffed one of the wheels pretty hard, it would act like an open diff. The posi still stayed pretty tight and would still spin two wheels on asphalt.

 

I've fried some LSD clutches unsuspectingly fast on other vehicles. TrueTrac for this ride to me should be all that's needed w/o future expense. From what I hear from TrueTrac sellers is it's a quality precise drop in replacement usually w/o needing shim adjustment.

 

This...I think the factory LSD is only pre-tensioned 200 ft/lbs torque..it will only do so much. The TRD Kazuma is pre-tensioned 400 ft/lbs....but good luck finding one of those.

http://www.proactivate.com/tundra/lsd.html

To OP, you could try cleaning it out like is talked about in this thread to see if it helps...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lsd-replace-or-rebuild-what-are-my-options.554702/

 

Thank you much but I just bought a new set of shoes for her and dont have the xtra funds right now plus with Christmas coming up. Speedtre posted a link about cleaning it so Ill try that. If it doesn't work Ill just have an open diff was fun though when it was working. I think this is the way to reply to someones post Im still new at this.

 

Thanks I am going to try that out. Just had me confused as why the limited slip would work on pavement 2 scratch marks, the one wheel on gravel/grass and the other on pavement and worked awesome. In the dirt it was useless.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDRbnmjzY7U

 

I think the keywords here are “limited slip differential”. I really think that says it all. It’s not a non-slip differential LOL. I think your differential was doing exactly what it was designed to do. Limited slip allows the inside tire around a turn to move slower than the outside tire. This gives you basically a tame version of a locking differential. A locker will almost always bark the inside tire around a corner. A limited slip will allow them to spin at different speeds until you step on it a little bit. The only thing that locks them together are the clutches.

 

@MS22 No problem -- just thought I'd throw it out the before listing in the classifieds Good luck!

 

It would work on pavement because the two tires were pushing against the same ground. The gravel and asphalt experiment would be similar because half the rear weight was still on the tire in the pavement. When you stuff a tire and unload another that's a big difference in force pushing that tire against the ground.

The lsd that I've had worked like this too and sometimes using the e brake to load the unweighted tire helps.


Are our factory lsd clutch style? Can you buy the clutches to rebuild them?

 

Also two footing the gas and brake can help get the spinning tire to slow and transfer power to the stuck tire.

 

There is a website someone posted here where you type in your vin# and it will tell you all about your truck for free Mine stated that it had the factory Limited slip.Not sure about the rebuilding part. Once I get some time Im going to try that cleaning proccess that speedtre mentioned above.

 

Coming back to this post... I will eventually install a Detroit Truetrac. I had one on my Tacoma and it great in all conditions

 

What is an average install cost of a truetrac?

 

Never messed with having a yota setup done but I’ve had a few other vehicles re geared and diffs changed. With me supplying at the parts and bearings etc, installs were about 6-800 in labor for a single diff (rwd). If you’re not re gearing front and rear, just swapping a rear diff I’d imagine it would be in that ballpark. Gears and diffs are not cheap and it’s x2 if you’re 4wd.

 

if you use East Coast Gear Supply it ran me about $1400 for new gears and truetrac, a local installer charged $350 to drop in the whole unit.

 

You paid 350 for gear installation front and rear?

 

My bad it was rear only. My Tacoma was 2wd

 

Okay, I'm getting quoted 1500 just for labor. I'm being told the whole rear axle would be rebuilt to do the install right. Currently my truck has 190k and the rear-end seems totally fine but its a "while they're in there" kind of quote. I'll look into some other shops and see what they say.