Front Strut Replacement - 2002 Tundra 4x4

I have watched many videos, but I still can not figure out how to get the lower bolt out past the axle. Every video I see they just tap it out and it misses the axle, but not on my truck. I tried putting a jack under the control arm, but it gets to a point where the spring stops compressing and the truck just gets lifted. I also tried prying the control arm down to get the bolt out over the top of the axle, but can't get it to move enough to get it past the axle still. Any tips or other ideas?

 

It can be a pain honestly. That lower bolt hits the CV boot unless you get it just right. It helps if you get a 2nd set of hands. If you don't have anyone that can help a pry bar works wonders. Force the lower control arm down until the angle is right for the bolt to clear the CV axle.

 

It's pretty tight. I had to press the bolt into the cv boot to get it out. Disconnecting the sway bar link may help.

 

Have you loosened the LCA mount bolts yet? Mark where your alignment is first so you can get it back there for the drive to the alignment shop. Once you loosen the LCA bolts it will be easy to move to whatever angle you need to get the bolt out.

 

I hadn't tried that, will give that a shot.

 

If i remember on my gen 1, taking off the sway bar allows the arm to droop a little farther

 

I did try this, but I think my lack of a good prybar I think held me back on making any progress with this. I have one on order, and will give it another go!

 

Can you press down with your body weight as you poke out the bolt?

 

You'll probably screw up the threads, so get new bolts. Put them in the other direction when you replace them.

 

Just did this myself. Doesn't matter how far you drop the assembly, the CV boot goes down with the lower arm, and is in the way. I turned the wheel to full lock (forgot which way) but that was the ticket in getting it out without damaging the boot . I do also recommend getting new bolts as the threads on mine got pretty chewed up. I was able to get the nut back and torqued alright after running a die around the bolt to "fix" the threads.

 

Just did this in my wifes Sequoia. driver side took 2 hours of swearing and 3 beers, my wife leaning all 105 pounds of her on a pry bar and the dog barking , but i finally got the CV boot keeper to rotate at the correct angle when the sun was in correct alignment with Neptune , and the bolt came through.
Passenger side took 20 minutes.

 

When I replace struts I take the bottle jack and place it upside down with the base pressed against the inner fender well and the other side on top of the UCA. Normally it would be on top of the ball joint bolt that sticks up through the UCA. As you crank the jack it will push the entire suspension down. No pry bar necessary.

 

Same here, bottle jack created the space I needed in a controlled manner -- watch your face though, if that jack isn't seated well and decides to let loose you better not be nearby... wear a hockey helmet if you've got one! haha

 

Well, unfortunately the bottle jack trick would not work, as the shock itself was actually broken, and pushing down on the UCA would bind it into the spring.

Since everyone recommended replacing the lower shock mount bolt, I ended up just cutting them out with a sawzall, which negated the need to move the lower control arm enough to get the bolt clear of the axle. Put new bolts in the opposite direction so don't have to deal with this again.