YZed's 2017 MGM SR5 Build

Glad I was able to assist!!!

 

Well the fogs definitely need to be adjusted! Going to need to find somewhere I can do it as I can't use the garage door where I live. Going to need to take the front fender liner out again. Also a few photos just for fun from yesterday.

 

Just an update as I haven't posted here in a while. I adjusted the fog lights up more, one side is still a little off from the other but the adjuster is maxed out so it's just the way it's sitting from when I added the zip ties to stop them from shaking. It's close enough where I can't notice it when driving. They are definitely brighter than the stock (2017) halogens, I honestly keep them on all the time with the headlights as they're not bright enough to be annoying to others, they do help light up the sides more.

I took it to Red Bud for the mxdn this fall. It ended up raining a lot and the parking lot was a mess. 2nd day they needed a tractor with actual tracks on it to pull cars out from being stuck. I got through fine with selective line choices, but these stock Michelins really aren't great in slick mud, I'll be looking for something more aggressive for the 2nd set.




Also was hit in a parking lot somehwere. I usually park far away and walk so not sure when it exactly happened. Was able to get all of the marks off with some soft scrub, but there's a crack on the top transition from horizontal to the front. Still haven't decided what I'm going to do, if I'll get another plastic end and have it painted, or get my original steel chrome ends painted. When I first noticed it (note I didn't even see it for a while, as I normally never walk around that side of the truck) I just wanted to get a plate bumper so whoever does it next get's their car rocked.


My tonneau cover, I've liked it so far besides the locking mechanism. As you can see on the first page, the clips that lock it down really aren't that wide and have a hard time getting under the rail to lock shut. They would regularly unlock and the back would flop up and down. To try to fix this I took some 1/8" bar stock and put it between the bed rail and the rail for the tonneau to push the tonneau rail in farther towards the locking clips. It has seemed to worked so far, although I noticed, since I put about an 8" piece behind each clamp, where the second set of clips are at the back of the cover that the rails have begun to move back outward. They still lock, but it probably would have been better to have the shim run the length of the bed instead of just around the clamps. Sorry, I didn't take any photos of this, but I can if anyone wants.

 

As a follow up to this post from the cam shaft tower seal leak thread (https://www.tundras.com/threads/cam-shaft-tower-seal-leaking-please-read.20102/page-33#post-930813), I took the truck to the dealer today for the last Toyotacare service (25,000 miles). I put a note about the seal leak in the online service request. When they got it up on the lift they called me out to show them. From underneath you couldn't see any signs of leakage, so I showed them the photos. Both the tech and the service adviser said it's not bad enough to warrant tearing it apart. I suppose I can't exactly argue with them, as it's not dripping yet and I can't exactly prove it's the seal that's leaking. I'm going to clean the area up to get a fresh start and monitor it once a week to see what happens. I'll record it and hopefully get enough evidence to get the thing resealed (both sides). I have the extended warranty so I'm not worried at this point about it running out and getting stuck with the repair bill.

I can't say that they knew what it was and were trying to dodge the work. Although, when I brought it up to the adviser before they took my keys for the service he said something along the lines of "on these it's usually the valve cover not the cam tower". I didn't want to bring up the pages of posts on forums...

On another note I got an air vent phone mount for Christmas. Seems to work good enough for what I need it for (really just Pandora controls since that was taken away from Entune, and directions (I've used the Entune GPS directions before and got taken a hella goofy way... I'm wary of using it over Google Maps)). Just have to take note of phone temp with the heat on, the vents are orientated down and slightly left towards the wheel, with the ball mount aiming the phone up. It's not a direct path into the phone but it did feel fairly warm when I took it off tonight.

 

Very late to the game but I just saw this, looks great bud!

 

Haven't updated in a while...

First, thanks Andres! Receiver still looks perfect but can't say the same for the Masterlock Lock, the red anodizing is now faded to pink. Was thinking of just using a brush wheel to get rid of the rest of the anodizing and leave it silver.

I have a BAM 10" Stainless system ready to go on, just waiting for some successive WI days above 60 with no rain to be able to paint the tailpipe for the install.

Also ordered the BumperShellz covers for both front and back bumper ends. I do have OEM plastic fronts colormatched I put on last year to replace the stock chrome ends, but one is now cracked (parking lot mystery...). I figured this is cheaper to put the stock chromes back on with the covers, and have better "bump" protection than straight up plastic. They will hopefully ship end of month sometime.

I have the Victory 4x4 LCA and rear diff skids, just need to install.

If anyone is curious, here's my fill-up stats from basically day 1 (missing a few). Hand-calculated from receipts and odo. Only thing is now with gas prices rising and stations auto-stopping at $100 fill-ups the numbers may start to be off if I don't start a second fill-up (at this point it's too close to being full at $100 to hassle, I'll see as time goes on). This is with 89 for about 70% of fillups. Stock engine, suspension, and tires.


Interesting looking at the mileage chart, you can see summer is higher and winter is lower. Heater on more (than AC) and needing to run richer in colder air, also longer idling times to warm it up.

 

Post a video of the bam 10" please.

I haven't heard this one and I'm curious...

 

I will as soon as I can! I'm anxious to hear it in person. In the meantime here's some videos to help. https://www.tundras.com/threads/dirty-deeds-10-inch-exhaust-video-heavy.40987/

 

Now that you've had the TruXedo Sentry CT for a while how are you liking it? I just ordered one myself and then ran across your photos, looks nice.

 

I like it a lot. I didn't post any pics of it, but a few posts up you can see I had to add some shims behind the side rails in back so the latches would stay shut (to push the rails farther inward). Before the little clips that latch it shut would barely grab the rail and you could still pull it up. No issues fading or staining or anything like that (parked outside 100%). I've taken it on and off a few times to put my dirt bike in it, it's pretty easy to do since there's just two large sliding clips in front, it's kind of heavy though. Easy to roll up, and once I figured out the latches in the rear, everything is locked up if you lock the gate. I will say the rubber molding that rests on top of the tailgate doesn't sit very tight, so it's probably not watertight (I honestly have never checked after a rain if there's water back there). No regrets buying it!

 

Thanks for the reply. I just installed mine about 4 hours ago. Looks great and was very easy. Cheers!

 

Installed the Victory 4x4 rear diff and LCA skid plates.

 

Also late to the party but love the truck. Also love the YZ, brrraaapppp!!

 

Thanks! She has changed some too. 15+ plastic conversion.

 

Love your MGM and thanks for the tip on the heat shrink on the shifter rod! Few questions on the Tonneau. How is the Sentry CT holding up? Does it stain easily? Can you open and close the tailgate with the cover in the locked or in closed position?

 

Thanks! The tonneau has been great so far, besides shimming the rails so the latches lock more securely, I've had no issues with it. I haven't noticed any fading on the fabric or stains (besides the odd running it through the car wash I haven't cleaned it). You can open the tailgate with it shut (since it locks shut you can't open the cover with the gate closed), but to close the gate you have to un-latch it and pull it up a little. The rubber gasket will get folded under the gate top otherwise.

Speaking of that gasket, it doesn't sit flat, there's a wave to it so I don't think it's water tight. Next time it rains I'll have to remember to open it up and see if any water gets in (I don't keep anything stored in the bed).

 

Thanks, keep us posted on your next mod!

 

Extended weekend for me here. Was able to get the stock exhaust off with no broken or stripped bolts. Took a ton of surface rust off the bolts and exhaust flanges with a wire brush, and soaked them with Aero Kroil, still needed a breaker bar and each made a cringe-worthy crack sound when broken loose, but all bolts turned out alright (road salt is such a bitch).

Oops. Oddest gasket I've seen. Some sort of wound spring gasket. I see no chance in getting this placed correctly again. Going to throw it out.

2" hole for resonator.

My resonator must have gotten a little bent in shipping, there is a noticable dent in the tailpipe from when I was first positioning the resonator to mock it up. I then bent the half-round out a little so it wasn't so tight. Hopefully this doesn't create a leak once installed.

Old vs. new (coated stainless) Flange is a little smaller on the ones I bought.

Down the exit of the stock muffler.

Into the intlet passenger side (no idea what's going on here).


Down the DD 10".


I had to move it a little to park it for the night, acutally thought it would be a little louder with no exhaust on it. So excited to get the DD 10" on. Will be painting the tailpipe tomorrow.

Sorry for all the pics on something so simple. First vehicle I've ever modded so all of this is new and exciting for me .

 

So I don't think what I thought was a dent from the resonator is a dent. Must be from the manufacturing process when they bend the tailpipe. Here's the same thing on another section of it:

Wire wheeled major rust spots and welds, then hand sanded with 320, green scotch brighted, and wiped down with alcohol:

Primed (3 coats):

Painted (3 coats, ended up being whole can):

It took me a while to figure out this setup lol, C-clamped on the hangar post on some horses:

This what I did so I ensured the resonator would be directly over the hole in the tailpipe. I put a punch mark at each corner before painting it. I could then align the corners up before bolting it down.

Stock vs. DD:

All installed:


Some moto flair :

I'll see how long the Yosh tag lasts. I sprayed it with some high-temp clear to help prevent corrosion. I figured the $8 or whatever it was plus rivets was a lot cheaper than $70 for the TRD tip (and more for the BAM).

So sound review, this thing is EXACTLY what I was hoping it would be! Idle is a little louder than stock, only really noticeable when standing near the tailpipe, a nice deep idle. Driving around town normal throttle usage you can tell it's an aftermarket exhaust, but not crazy. Some people (people walking on sidewalks etc) probably think it's just stock for a V8. It' can be pretty loud when you want it to be, surprisingly a pretty smooth sound. Cruising at 70, 1900-2000RPMs, on flat road (engine not loaded going up a hill), the engine sounds SILENT. It's quieter than stock. Go into a tunnel and click it over into sequential mode (always downshifts right away) and get on the gas, and it wakes right up!

I wanted something that can be loud if you want, quiet at cruising speed for road trips, and not be obnoxious around town or driving late at night. This does exactly that. Some may think it's too quiet for an aftermarket (this is the 10"), if you do no towing and want a noticeably louder than stock exhaust, get the 8 or 6". I could probably be fine with the 8", but I in no way would not recommend the 10", it's good if you want some nice respectable sound. No matter which length, I think the resonator is a MUST. Keith has the specs of that thing down to a science, I can't believe how quiet it is at highway cruising speeds, and no drone at all.

 

Updating this thread, it seems I post in the what did you do today thread but not my own build...

First post updated.

New receiver lock:

$20 motormic Trailer Hitch Lock Pin Set - 5/8" and 1/2" Extra Long Black Pins with One Locking System - 1 Safety Clip, 10 Anti Rattle O-Rings – Tow receivers 1.25”, 2” and 2.5" (Class I,II,III,IV,V)…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB17XD7?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Had to cut the old one off since the lock itself got so corroded from salt you couldn't put the key in. Actually went to a lock smith to see if they could do anything and they cut it.

I removed the front LCA skids after finding they were rubbing the wheels (don't show touching in photos because of tire scrub/steering play when letting go of wheel in park). I marked off where to trim them but still haven't done so. Sitting in the garage still.








Bumpershellz front and rear end covers. I had the OEM painted plastic ends on the front but as seen above in the thread was cracked. Put the steel front ends back on and covers over. I did break a few bolts up front, rusted in good. Will eventually have to get them out and replace but has been fine for about 5 months without them... Color matching is good, on front and back. Would recommend them for sure! Here's a photo of the rear:



New rear window stickies.


Pro Clip phone mount. I like it so far. I noticed on one of the pieces the predrilled holes didn't line up right, it still worked though.





Had a flat and had to get a new tire replaced. Went with a replacement Michelin but had a big internal debate on just upgrading all 4 right away. The others just have really good tread left still.



Been noticing a ringing sound at about 72-77mph on the freeway. Sounds directly related to engine as I can let off and instantly goes away. Tightened all exhaust joints and made sure resonator is still over the cut-out in the tailpipe. Next will tighten up all skids and see if anything is loose and vibrating at that RPM/load frequency...

Also been noticing a harsh jolt/shudder in slow traffic (15-40ish)when you let off (coasting, idling down), then get back on the throttle. Only happens then, no issues up shifting at all from any speed. Been thinking about getting my tranny and diff fluid changed to see if it helps.

Also finally picked out a name for her a while back, Becky. Wanted either a classy meaningful name, or a slooty name. I had a particular encounter with a Becky in a bar a few years ago, so that was the choice .

 

Didn't take any pics, but put the front seat bracket covers on.

Also got a DU-HA underseat storage unit (https://puretundra.com/interior-acc...-for-tundra-double-cab-0715-black-p-1950.html). I already had the OEM DC under-seat storage, but was wanting more space. You CM guys are really missing out , sorry!

Install is REALLY easy, but as usual I take too many photos...
OEM underseat to seat edge gap:

OEM Seat up.

What I had in the OEM unit (30' strap, 2 tie-downs, full-size umbrella, collapsible snow shovel, blanket).

OEM uses 4 mount points, a vertical and horizontal big thumb screw on the outer edges of both sides:

Jack and tools location, the OEM has a removable panel to take the jack out, the DU-HA does not (but still possible to get jack out without removing, just have to "feel" to remove/apply the retainer strap). Note the jack needs to be turned 180° from what is shown to fit with the DU-HA:


Removed, the seat rests are the square rubber pads:

Nuts for OEM unit (taller rectangular), need to be removed as the DU-HA (the shallower, cylindrical top) threads are larger. Note the DU-HA uses all vertical mount points, the two from the OEM locations and an additional in the middle using an existing hole. These just pop in and out. The OEM's fit much snugger, the DU-HA's just kind of float but find their spot and bite when they're tightened down, no difference in end result:





DU-HA shown with optional long divider and gun rack inserts, I took all of these out (pretty sure one is backwards in this photo).

Side by side:

OEM on top of the DU-HA. Doesn't look like much difference but the extra space is definitely usable.

Installed, you can see the three large thumb screws to the left, it feels very secure with just these:

Same cargo as above, with addition of a basic tool set:

Jack location with DU-HA installed:

I think they could have still gotten more room out of it if they filled in the driver side space under the seats (same space opposite of where the jack and tools are on the passenger side):

Shown with seat down, passengers may lose feet room if they like to cross lower legs and tuck them under. I sat in the back seats (5'10") and didn't feel a difference in normal sitting position.


All in all I like it. OEM definitely has better/cleaner moldings, maybe a stiffer construction, but I see no real-world disadvantages in these areas to the DU-HA. OEM also has the top covers, but there really is no need for them since the seats act as covers, just don't pile too high so the seats can still lock down.

Few photos for the hell of it.
OEM underside:

OEM cover locking mechanism.


Really only drawback I've noticed is I use an extendable snowbrush that I usually just keep extended and throw in the back when I'm done with it. I pretty much never have anyone ride in the back, but if they were the little removed space below the rear seat fronts to tuck the brush in to might leave the passengers kicking the brush around. Very minor in MY use...

 

Becky got new pair of sexy glasses (like those hot librarian ones) today. Installed the 2019 TRD Pro headlights with iHacker harness, VLED's turn signal and VLED's resistor. I did the DRL bright all the time version, and left the amber DRL. I didn't realize it before but the amber turns off when the headlights are on, I guess I never noticed that on my stock headlights.

They have a little stripe on the edges, matches the MGM pretty good.

Headlights:
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assy-rh-811100c211
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assy-lh-811500c211
Blinker bulbs: https://www.vleds.com/7443-50-hv-amber.html
Resistors: https://www.vleds.com/vlr-6-duotap.html

Bulb comparison.

Where I put the resistors.






Went for a little test drive after it got dark tonight, so much brighter than my stock lights! Height adjustment looked good, I tried moving one with the screwdriver because I thought it was a little higher than the other side, but I couldn't see the light moving at all, unless you have to turn it a lot to make a difference. They seem like they have a lot more vertical light output too, I might need to use the level adjustment to put them down a little to not blind people.

 

AJT climate control knobs. I also took the chrome rings around them and the 4x4 switch ring out and dipped them black. Also dipped the silver portion of the shift surround from the Platinum piece I got.
The 4x4 switch is actually pretty intricate.

 

I really need to get this thing washed and waxed, then go to the same spot I took my original "photoshoot" photos at and redo it! Once I get new tires after these stockers wear out (planning on 275/70/18 Coopers) I may do 1" spacers, then I'm pretty well set I think. I wouldn't mind doing either the front camera or a dedicated dash cam, and maybe on-board air too. Also seeing how easy it was to take the door panels off, maybe some sound deadening.

SR black interior handles in, Ho Runner Pro wheel switches, and AJT wheel emblem on. I'm done with the interior for now! Thought it was cool the handles came with pre-applied grease for the locks/handle cables.

 

Very nice build dude! Love the attention to detail and chrome/silver delete I might steal some of your ideas!

 

Thanks! And go for it! Glad I can help others with ideas.

 

Updating this with stuff I've posted already in the what did you do to your 3rd gen thread.

Northstar battery.


VLED's footwell lighting kit. Put the fronts on the side of each seat as an attempt to make a puddle light when the doors are open. Kind of works but creates a shadow right below the steps from hitting the door jam.




After almost a year of having them removed, I finally trimmed the LCA skids so they don't rub my wheels.







Bought a Safe Jack to keep in the truck. So much safer than the stock jack.




Wash and wax then took some beauty shots.

 

Finally took some pics of the shims I added for the tonnea to push the rails further inward.

 

Haven't updated in a while. Had 275/65/R18 Cooper AT3 LT's put on after getting another puncture in the sidewall in one back in February.

Also the damn LCA skid saga is finally over, put 1.25" Bora spacers on after noticing it they were rubbing my tires at full lock. I should have just put them on from the beginning and not had to deal with the cutting. No rubbing anywhere. Had to wire brush the wheel interface, the hubs, the base of the studs before being able to install them.

Btw I know the wheel key is on the wheel still in one of the photos, I grabbed it after.

 

Installed my

$150 Rexing V1P 4K Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD 2160p Front + 1080p Rear Wi-Fi 170° Wide Angle Dual Channel with Rear Cam, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording Mobile App Supercapacitor

Rexing V1P F/R dashcam. I'm still not sure why but was a huge pain trying to read voltages off of the fuses to see what was constant and ACC power. I ended up using the CIG fuse for ACC and replacing the 25A S/ROOF fuse with the 15A supplied (I don't have a sunroof). Also cracked my B pillar trim trying to pry it to get room to run the rear camera wire, oops. Handle is still tight and can't really see the crack... Also I'm really not sure what keeps these headliners up, the edges pry away pretty easily, but seem to pop back easy too. Rear is a little low res but should do the job if the footage is ever needed. The footage shots are photos of my PC monitor so they look kinda meh. I tried to put the camera up higher on the windshield but the black textured sunshade stuff didn't let the suction cup stay. Ran the rear camer wire up the edge of the headliner and followed the door seal.