The dreaded Secondary Air Injection issue on my 1st Gen, tips?

Hey guys! Ok so my truck is coding off and on about the secondary air injection issue. It's been doing it sporadically for about a year and a half. It has not gone into limp mode YET so I've held off on fixing it.

I am going to do the job myself. The only thing I don't do is tires because I don't have a high speed balancer, haha. So, have any of you changed this out yourself? If so, what can you tell me about it and what do I have to look forward to?

And, a picture of my truck because I haven't posted one here yet.

2006 Tundra, SR5, 4.7L, Leer Camper Shell, BFGoodrich AT KO2 10-ply tires

 

Welcome. I can't help but we have some people here that can. I know most people do the bypass rather than repair but I like all my stuff to work so I would be tempted to fix it.

 

Bypass you say??? LOL I prefer it all to work properly, but I am also trying to build a homestead, so if I can bypass it for now and buy some time that would be awesome. We are way behind schedule and I want to get this project done.

 

2008 - 2014 Plug & Play SAIS Bypass Kit
https://hewitt-tech.com/store/

By pass kit. They have the 1st gen tundras on that site as well.

 

Awesome, thanks!

 

My Hewitt is in transit so hopefully it arrives by Saturday. I'll post an update if I'm able to get it installed this weekend. Internet seems to like the Hewitt systems, lots of posters saying years of service with no issues. I think Hewitt discusses intermittent codes due to moisture/corrosion/gunk build up in the valves.

 

I installed the Hewitt bypass kit about 6 months ago. I was not getting any codes but the truck would make a vacuum-like noise for about 20 seconds on start-up which is a sign that the SAIP pump might be going bad. The install is pretty straight forward. I didn't even put on the block-off plates until about two months ago since I wasn't getting any CEL codes. I decided if I was going to do the bypass then I might as well do it right. It hasn't affected any of my smog inspections in Texas. Hope this helps.

 

I'm getting the same vacuum-like noise. Ordering mine today, haha.

 

I just installed the Hewitt plug and play this weekend. Truck is running and no CEL. I can tell the pumps are no longer operating at start up as mine would make a groaning sound about a minute after startup. That sound is now gone.

In order to install the block off plates I needed to remove the hood, the hood hold-up pistons were directly in the way of reaching the nuts on the flanges, at least for me. I also would recommend getting an box end wrench, 12 point 10mm offset stubby. There's not much room once you reach your hand wrenching near the flange. Some manner of small head ratchet with elbow extensions may help also. The nuts were not very tight, but they are soft 10mm and once you slip off a couple of times you'll begin to round them. Good luck.

 

I’ve also had success using the six point high impact sockets as it seems they have a sharp edge on them which catches the bolts real nicely. Good on ya for the repair success!

 

I installed the Hewitt bypass a few months ago and used a rachet type wrench, I didn't take the hood off but it is the way.

 

Had one on my 06 worked perfect

 

Interesting. I just attacked it from below and didn't need to remove the hood. Like you said, extensions and universal joints was all I needed.

 

I have the same issue on my 2005 and i will use the kit!

 

I feel pretty ignorant about this pump lol
But I believe the code I have been getting off and on is because of it. I just looked up the pump and I am seeing it for 140-160$. Why is everyone bypassing it if it’s that inexpensive? Or am I looking at the wrong part?

https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/air_pump/toyota/tundra.html

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By7JoJzynrbSSktEc1hxNHdJcTQ/view?usp=drivesdk

This is bypass mod I used. I've had it on for about 8 years.

 

From what I've read it's a pain to get to the pump. Even after the pump has been replaced I've read stories where the pump goes bad again. So rather than go through the aggravation it takes maybe an hour or so to do the bypass. Not many stories where the bypass didn't permanently take care of the issue from what I've seen.

 

It's not a hard job just time consuming. You have to remove the intake manifold!

 

I bought the bypass a few months ago and finally had time for the install today. The block off plates on the drivers side went fine. I went through the wheel well to get access. Tight fit with the brake lines and steering column, but got the plate in. The passenger side was a disaster. Outer most nut sheared off. I didn’t attempt the inner one and didn’t install the plate. Hooked up the bypass into the starter relay and cleared the codes. It seems fine for now, but I am concerned about the lack of a blocker plate and missing nut on the passenger side manifold. Are the blocker plates critical to successfully keeping the codes from returning? Am I going to have an exhaust leak from the missing nut? I cannot see a way to drill out and repair what snapped without removing a lot from the engine bay. How screwed am I on this one?

thanks for any help!

 

Thanks for posting. That's great info!

 

Good job on getting this far.

Time for you to figure a way to make it happen. Switch to plan B. Complete the job per the instructions. My 2002 doesn’t have this air thingy bypass or else I’d try to help you. Never give up, as there is always a way.

 

Same happened to me. After shimming in the block off plate I used a piece of mechanics wire to wrap the two flanges together and twisting it tight. Its been holding tight for over two years

 

A lot of people buy the bypass kit to run 00-04 aftermarket headers. The 00-04 headers don't have the air injection pipes and therefore are on average $300 cheaper vs 05-06 headers.

 

Holy thread revival Batman!!! and way to bring up a sore topic, free Heather!!!!!

 

No worries.

I still have the home made bypass file.

 

Sorry to Re-revive an oldie, but got some questions. Recently bought 05 Seq with the 4.7 and it got just got the bypass kit installed(no patience for me) by a shop and I have noticed that when I have an incline it seems to mis or stall briefly/slightly. I have never noticed this before at any time. Could this be related? I have zero dash lights on. I know the kit has plates he said he had to install, he is a import repair shop, so thinking it was done correctly, but this engine now having this sputter/mis or whatever is a concern for me. Thoughts from the yoda pros?

 

A well trained eye by a CA smog shop will catch this bypass kit every time and fail you......

Fixing it right is a matter of pulling off intake manifold to get at the parts....most the time it is the little plastic vanes inside smog pump disintegrating and clogging the ASV #2 ....which are located behind the starter at the back of the engine....

PITA but doable....ASV can be taken apart to unclog them....

 

Thank God I don't live in Californication!

 

Here it comes…..