New Member - AIP issues -> ABS issues

Hi all!

I've had my '07 tundra about 2 years now. It's a crewmax 5.7L 4x4 with TRD package. Had my first registered issue pop up - luckily(?) it's a known issue (AIP). I've been reading up and found some really helpful things here, so I decided to join!

Day 1: I've replaced one of the secondary air pumps, dissected the other to make sure no water had intruded/damaged. Reset the codes - all good for one day. I also ended up installing hellwig helper springs, which ended up lifting the rear about 2.5" (not sure if relevant). Codes were cleared. Drove from parents house to my house (dad has more tools), and everything was fine.

Day 2: I got the flashing 4lo, check engine, flashing TSC off, and VSC back! Truck wasn't in limp mode though this time, so brought to O'Reily's and had codes scanned - had C1247 and C1202. I'm thinking I need to start with a zero point calibration, else I'll be picking up a new power brake booster.

Day 4: Truck is back in limp mode, and now I'm hearing what sounds like a high pitched fan when I first start the truck that goes away after 4-5 seconds. Did a 60-0 brake check, and confirmed I have no ABS kicking in.

My plan is to start with a ZPC, check codes, check the AIP valve that is to the right of the engine for corrosion, un-plug re-plug power brake boost, replace power brake booster if still no fix... While I scramble my eggs in this 110 degree heat index, any insight or help is most appreciated. Else I lost about 3 hours of sleep last night reading up on all the content in here...

 

Welcome from NY.
Good luck.

 

Shout out to @Roman for alot of info on parts relating to this. Just ordered some parts and saved about a coffee's worth on shipping with the discount code you posted

 

Anything pertaining to AIP'S on a 07 is outside of any warranty coverage unfortunately. I had mine replaced @ 66k and surprisingly it went into limp mode as I was traveling home @ 3am. Pulled over disconnected negative terminal for a few minutes and back to normal. My engine light came back on do to the charcoal canister filter, but no limp mode. At some point I am gonna install the bypass kit. Good luck

 

Yeah, figured I'd try to resolve the ABS brakes code C1247 before I dished out $$ for a new power brake booster or master cyclinder... still trying to pin-point that issue causing the code, but sinze the ZPC no more ABS lights. Scanned the truck and looks like I'm just getting P2440 "Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open (Bank 1) and C1201 - Engine Control System Malfunction.

I didn't go for the bypass kit yet... this may sounds naive, but would the charcoal canister filter have anything to do with the valve being stuck open? When I removed the secondary air pumps only one was full of water, so I was hoping nothing got back to the valve, but the fact that I can get the lights reset and have them stay off for a bit just to come right back on as soon as I start driving, I'm thinking it really is a valve issue being stuck. Would the bypass get me out of limp mode even with the stuck valve? Not too thrilled about taking off the intake to get to it...

 

That the valve is stuck open is the problem. If it were stuck closed, you could get away with the bypass, as it's open, the bypass won't work. I'll wager that the stuck valve is corroded from the one contaminated pump you discovered. Unless someone has a better idea, I think you're going to have to go in. I don't know if you can loosen up that valve and get it to close, install the bypass and hopefully be set. I would be surprised if the canister was part of what's causing this.

I've had to redo my ZPC a couple of times now, I have no idea why. I'll get a bunch of dash lights one day while driving around, and the first thing I do is a recalibration because it's super easy. Honestly it's harder to find a level place to do it. No suspension/tire mods, and I've had a bypass installed for several years now. It just happens and that's sorts it.

 

Anyone know of a "different" valve assembly that is compatible with the tundra for a better price? I know there was an identical chevy smog pump that worked once the connector was swapped - at a considerable savings...

Otherwise, any vendors out there that can hook me up with a discount for the replacement valve assembly part 25701-38064? I'm seeing prices from $200-250...

Or, I've hear the bottom block of the valve assembly can be left in place, so is there just a valve top and valve replacement? Anyone have any experience with just replacing the top and leaving the bottom valve body?

 

I've started a petition on Change.org for Toyota to address the secondary air injection issue. Here's the link: http://chng.it/p5gJY4rp7M
It saddens me that a company that I've been loyal to for over 30 years has let a problem like this continue at the consumers expense. Please pass this on to anyone you know has had the same problems. My truck is in "limp" mode now and I'm on the 3rd repair for the same problem.

 

I'm installing a carbon filtered breather assembly on mine this weekend hoping to save them before disaster strikes. Also going to move the intake under the hood and out of the fender