Sound matting worth it?

The hardest part of removing the roof liner is getting the rear grab handles removed. When you get the grab handles removed, the a pillar trims removed, the roof lights removed you can remove the roof liner. The easiest way to remove the roof liner is through the rear window. I would suggest you use some clean gloves when touching the roof liner. It’s easy to leave finger prints on it if your fingers are dirty or if your sweating at all. When reinstalling the roof liner make sure the front edges of it will be covered by the two front a pillar trims. It’s easy to have the head liner a little too far to the rear of the truck.

 

Anyone notice a big reduction in heat inside the cab after doing the roof? My truck is parked outside all day and gets extremely hot.

 

not official but yes I did, It (feels) cooler to me..

 

Damn, you guys have kicked the sound deadening game up about ten notches here.
Well done! Now I have to do the roof, lmao!

 

Hey @Roman do you have a link where to buy the clips?

 

You can buy some plastic foil rolls at the big box or repurpose Heller Fresh food delivery insulation (the plastic foil) and put up in the roof. It reflects the UV rays back out.

 

I used Reflectix from home depot on my floor, doors, and back wall. I also have 80mil noico, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl everywhere. On the doors and back wall I used spray adhesive to stick the reflectix to the outer door skin after i applied noico sound mat. Then I put the closed cell foam and MLV panels I made over that.
I used reflectix directly against the floor over the noico again, then foam, then MLV. If I do my roof I will use some kind of self stick butyl and foam, then a layer of this reflective insulation. It really should help quite a bit.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflect...-Reflective-Insulation-Roll-BP24010/100318552

 

I put together a material list with the best prices, or easiest search, I could find. The clips are on here. I had planned on doing the four doors, so these quantities are for that. The NOICO will probably cover the rear bulkhead also. I'm using the method described on sound deadener showdown, it matches what I've seen in practice from some Navy applications. I've only got the back doors done so far, but noticeable difference.

 

These should be the door panel trim clips you're looking for:

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-door-trim-panel-clip-90467a0005

 

Thanks @1UPPER! Another question, did you remove just the (-) terminal from the battery when you dropped the headliner or did you remove both cables? Dont want an airbag blowing in my face by accident

 

sub'd

 

That webpage needs a bit of work, just thought I'd let you know. The fitment tool says it won't fit his truck:




But the fitment table says it will:

 

you only have to disconnect the negative. In my Trans-Am i have a disconnect lever to keep the battery from draining
Tip - roll the back window down before disconnecting the battery. also if you have Amp power steps, open both doors as well so the steps are in the down position.

 

I disconnected both positive and negative cables.

 

A lot of them will do that. It's all set by the manufacturer, and not anything I can change on my end. When in doubt, go with what the parts master says fits.

 

Heres a deal on the white retainer clips that get lost or broken when doing stereo and sound matting work

$7 GOOACC for Toyota Trim Door Panel Clips Retainer for Tacoma Tundra Camry Corolla Avalon Sienna Replace OEM: 90467-10188，9mm Hole - 40pcs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=M8NQHKYR846R5R5VKH5N

 

Thanks everyone. I installed Killmat and then went over it with Dynaliner and I can tell the sound difference from before and after. The heat I can tell a difference but its not quite significant yet but its only June here in Texas. Unfortunately even though I wore gloves when putting the headliner back on, I still got dirty smudges on my headliner, mainly near the back window. I think its because I thought i had to move the window gasket then reattach when the headliner was in place for it to "lock in". If I was supposed to do that, it really didnt work out as intended. With the addition of they Kilmat and Dynaliner, one area in the back looks like its slightly sagging lower then the rest of the headliner. I tried everything I could think of to get that locked in but there was just not a way.

 

Looks great. I really really wanna do this. I have done my whole truck with multiple layers and all I need to do it the roof. It just looks so difficult to do. And I'd likely be alone. Is it possible to drop the liner and put matting up without completely removing the liner from the cab? Like maybe slide it forward and back as you work? Thanks ahead of time

 

I couldn't find a write up on how to remove the headliner. Any chance you could throw one together? @effektz

 

I did mine completely alone. Only had a person help with sliding it out the back window into the bed of the truck. Im not gonna lie, its a tedious, swear laden job but its not hard to do. Honestly I dont see a way that you could add the matting with the headliner in there. Once the headliner is dropped, its easy to slide out the back window. There are some odd/tight spaces that you need to get to that you could only get to completely unobstructed.

Ive never done this before and I got it taken down, matted, dynaliner, and reinstalled all within about 6-7 hours by myself. You can definitely do it!

 

I couldnt find one either however there were a couple done for the 2nd gen Tundras that worked very similar to the 3rd gen. Here is a link to the one I followed One item they dont cover in there is removal of the rear dome light. That thing is literally just clipped up there so you can just pop it off. Oh and those handles are a BIATCH to get removed, just have to have patience

 

I ordered a few from toyota and they were like 4 dollars a piece. For 10 bucks on Amazon I got a 50 pack.

 

Heads up on the MLV. Not all MLV is the same. I ordered two rolls from "theisostore" on ebay (i think they sell on Amazon and have a website too, but not sure). Great price but something not quite right about its consistency, nothing sticks to it and hh66 vinyl cement wouldnt bond two pieces together. I am returning one of the rolls and since I cut up the other may use what is left for the floor.

Has anyone purchased and used the mlv from acoustimac and confirm adhesive backed velcro and hh66 vinyl cement will bond well?

 

I bought from them, the 1 lb version. I used 3M spray adhesive and the velcro and it all bonded well. Other stuff doesnt stick to it like aluminum duct tape or regular duct tape. But the CCF stuck well with 3M vinyl spray adhesive

 

lots of work, but agree its an improvement

 

I used acoustimac and didn't have a problem. This was my list for four doors, but there is enoungh Noico left to do the aft bulkhead.

 

Added some natural fiber insulation from a food prep box delivery service on all the doors just recently. The big box window/door butyl rubber patches and some free foam packing blocks where put in last year with success.

Quiet and comfortable. Very low cost and earth nutter friendly.

 

Thanks. I will place an order.

 

I would like to do the same, but my back window is fixed.
Can it be done without removing the liner from the cab?

I was amazed at how loud the '07 roof was when I was driving it in a downpour, my 2002 must have insulation up there because it's much quieter.

 

what would you recommend for heat insulation Arizona heat is no joke