What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Negative. I'm replacing them today. I had to repurpose my pickle fork as a pry bar on the lower control arm. It's now bent.

As always, not having the right tool makes a simple job hard. I keep learning this.

 

Air hammer works good too. If you have one

 

If the one you have is the big c clamp looking deal it'll work just not the way the instructions tell you.

You don't need the press to separate the upper control arm. A few hammer blows should knock it loose. If they don't you need a bigger hammer.

 

I'm officially sruck trying to remove the upper ball joint. This part I need will not fit.
Josh with first gen off road was able to make it work on his Sequoyah but I'm guessing they have more space.




This is the same kit I have.

@Festerw are you saying I can make it work? Pic below is screenshot from youtube.

 

Nice! That should help give you some extra clearance

 

I went OEM. I figured my OEMs lasted 13 years, I wouldn’t mind another 13 years...

 

Did you remove the snap ring? I used a cup I made out if stainless and a c clamp. Rent a ball joint press from the part store, same thing

 

Compared to everyone else here, my day was pretty easy. Spend a couple hours doing PM on the Mz PHM car. Drain and flushed her radiator. Sucked and filled brake fluids on the Tundra.

Dropped off the used fluids.

@FirstGenVol keep at it bud and hope you get through it easily as possible. Thats a big job you took on for never having done anything like it before and for this I commend you.

 

Snap ring is gone.
I rented the kit from Advance. I haven't been able to make it work. It's too tall.

I've been playing with different adapters with no luck.

 

I'm almost positive I flipped it upside down and used a ratcheting box wrench on it. Also possible I used a socket instead of one of the kit pieces. It was over a year ago so I'm not 100% on that but I know I got it to work.

Also as @empty_lord said make sure the snap ring is removed.

 

you should be able to move the spindle out of the wheel well if the brake caliper is off and the abs wires are loose. that would give you enough room

 

I haven't removed the caliper yet. I may have to. Any chance I damage the CV? I feel as though I'm putting a lot of strain on it as I screw with the spindle.

 

got fluid (took two stores).
got fill plug off w/ impact driver (just keeps being a thank gawd I bought this - tool).
got drain plug off w/ impact driver (see above).
still draining, pictures before 11. LOL.
No way 3.1 qts, but maybe 1-1.5 which is WAY better than not even covering the bottom of the pan I was expecting to come out.

Fluid came out soo clean - guess p.o. really did keep the maintenance up.

brake cleanered the pumpkin again after scraping, cleaning, scraping, draining, final spray down. Now to go at it wit rust removal tools to ID the actual pin holes.

back under it - more later. (including that little metal tab on the drain plug magnet...?)

 

Yup, this helps. I didnt have an axle to contend with on mine but I couldn't get the top of the tool to a good spot. Take the caliper off and disconnect the abs, that should buy you some swing out. Throw a towel over your hood/fender to keep it from getting dinged up.

Keep going brother you'll get there.

 

pop it out of the spindle. it'll screw up the boots if you put alot of strain on it i thnk its a 35mm socket

make sure you tighten it to sepc though.... too loose or tight will destroy the wheel bearing

 

Eventful day! Got my new 13WL front brakes installed, and they solved my shuddering issues. Yay!

Just in the nick of time for this!

 

That is the ball joint press you need. I've never seen anyone use a 2 claw press like the one u had in your first pic. For the ball joint job. Get the big c clamp one and you should b fine

 

a broken ford? i have one of those sitting in my garage.

 

Yup. This one was literally Found On Road Dead.

 

my mothers flex decided it was a great time to have the water pump fail. luckily i caught it before it jumped time

wonderful design.. putting a waterpump inside the engine driven by the timing chain. 70k on it.

 

Today I cleaned the throttle body and went for a drive

 

Much better. Was that simply a spray while installed cleaning or did you remove, did you scour, etc.? Thanks.

 

Some pictures from day 1 with the leaking pumpkin. Brake cleanered it, got damp again, said WTH & went at it with a putty knife.
caught most of the extra metal.

Not quite done, but mostly scraped down. Had to move on to carb. cleaner.

 

Didn't really ever find a clear pinhole. Annoying. Too impatient to fill & wait - decided I just need it to last 2 miles to drop it at the welding shop & just put on a new cover. Using what I have meant using a no-primer required thick POR-15 UV stabile top coat product.


dries high gloss & thick. Didn't want to go onto the axle housing & make an issue for the welders.

 

Giving it overnight to dry hard. Refill tomorrow with Lucas.
Fluid dried clear, but looking in the oil pan is the unmistakable glisten of metal. :-(

tried to pour it into only empty jug I have. ...in the dark... Took a minute to realize I was missing the jug. Well there's a quart of fluid in the jug & I still guess 1/2 a quart in the lawn.
Looks pretty black in the jug.
But when I wiped out the oil drain pan, towels are pretty clear - bearing in mind it's my used oil pan.

Saved the important part!

 

Just used some carb cleaner on a rag ziptied to a metal rod.

 

Ooh - I've got the carb cleaner out & about 1/2 full from the pumpkin. This may have to happen tomorrow too.
"Like"!

 

I'm about to this point. Considering going to harbor freight to get a compressor and air hammer.

 

Your truck is looking really good. That wheel and tire combo looks great.

 

Try this to remove that thing.
https://youtu.be/9unAkpfd5zA