New to me 2000 Tundra - Some questions

Hi all - I want to thank everyone in advance, I just joined the forum but have been on here frequently for a while now as I have been looking for a 1st gen Tundra. I appreciate the amount of information on here and hope someone can give me some input.

I just picked up a 2000 V8 4x4 in what appears to be decent shape. Its got close to 200K but seems to have been moderately well maintained and the frame was replaced a few years ago. I am hoping to get much more life out of it so I please feel free to give me any advice that might help that cause.

In any case I had a few questions I am hoping someone can help with:

• I just changed the oil and filter but when I went to check the dipstick it is stuck. With a good amount of force I was able to get it to come up a fraction of an inch but I didn't want to force it and potentially break it. I can also twist it a little but that action didn't seem to help get it out. It concerns me not to be able to monitor the oil level so I am hoping someone has a solution.
• I was planning on changing the fluid in both diffs and the transfer case but having a hard time figuring out what oil to use. My google searches keep bringing up threads from 10+ years ago so I am hoping someone with an early 1st gen can chime in with a recommendation. I did see mentions of a TSB about synthetic not being good for the 00-02 models but couldn't find the actual TSB.
• Regarding the rear diff - I am a little concerned about getting the fill and drain plugs out. I am not sure the last time the fluid was changed so not sure what kind of corrosion may be holding those bolts in. Any suggestions there? I have an impact wrench and air compressor but I am not sure that is a good approach or not.

Sorry for the long winded post and I apologize if my questions have been addressed already elsewhere.. I know I have more questions but the dipstick problem is consuming my thoughts and can't remember what else I had.

Thanks again

 

Congrats on your purchase!

As far as the dipstick, try and get it out, if you can't get it, you may have to drop the pan.

Synthetic is just fine for transfer cases and differentials as long as you don't have an LSD.

Spray the drain and fill plugs with PB blaster for a couple weeks before you try to pull them off, and do the fill plug first so you don't drain it and not be able to get it out.

 

Thank you! It was getting pretty dark by the time I wrapped up the oil change so I didn't mess with the dipstick for long. I am going to try again tomorrow when I get home from work and see if I can get it out.

I will start spraying the drain and fill plugs and hope they come at OK when the time comes.

How many miles do you have on you 00 ?

 

I have 316k on my 02. 75w90 for the diffs and Tcase. If you have an LSD in the rear you'll need the friction modifier.

 

Just curious if this was the first time you pulled the dipstick? That is usually done right after you kick the tires before buying haha.

Also, the rear diff drain and fill plugs are like a 22mm or something fyi. Not too common in people's tool boxes.

 

Welcome from CO.

 

Pour a little seafoam or similar down the dipstick tube and let soak overnight. I've seen really gummed up varnish on dipsticks and ours makes that 60 degree bend so it may just be that. Maybe the truck never burned oil so the previous owner never needed to pull the stick

Rear diff plugs are just like any other bolt, just bigger. Hit them with a wire brush and soak them for a day or two with penetrating oil. I'd be shocked if you have any issues removing them with a ratchet. The advice of always loosen the fill plug first still applies here.

I put valvoline dino 80w-90 in my diff with an added tube of lubegard modifier for lsd. As you found, lots of opinions on diff oils. I plan to change mine every 30k since it's so easy with the drain and fill plugs that I felt I wouldn't exhaust the capabilities of the dino gear oil. My truck had 165k at purchase, the plugs had some rust building along the threads so I'm thinking they had not been removed, possibly since new. Here's what my diff oil looked like.

 

lol - I stupidly didn't check it.. I had gone over a few other trucks in the days before much more in depth but all had more questionable histories and were more expensive.. When I went to see this one I had an appointment to see another 00 and not a whole lot of time. Between the history being better than any other truck I had seen, the owner seeming to legit and have taken decent care of it and the price I just kind of jumped on it. Plus I had my two daughters telling me they thought this was the one.

Thanks for the tip on the 22mm. I had to buy a 30mm for the axle nut on my wife's Golf last year but don't think I have a 22mm yet

Thanks - I will try your tip on the dipstick if I can't get it out tomorrow.

I was thinking of going with the dino and doing it every 30K as well since I won't be putting a ton of miles on the truck and don't mind doing the work. No issues with yours after putting fresh fluid in it?

 

I had a 2000 for a little while, chassis and quite a few other things were replaced under warranty. It ran good but had a few engine leaks. After working on it 1 weekend and struggling with the rusty bolts I decided to sell it and buy a southern truck.

 

Welcome from NY.

 

I feel ya haha. I've been there. You have your whole routine and attack planned out, and then a curve ball from the seller distracts you.

Anyway, just Googled the diff plug size and I think it's a 24mm. Verify before buying. I think its in a counter bore, so an open ended wrench of any kind won't work. Dino oil and LSD additive is what I've always used.

 

Golf's will make you buy all sorts of rare and exotic tools. I now have a variety of torx, triple squares, and odd allen bolts.

Just use a breaker bar on the diff plugs. I don't trust using impact on stuff when corrosion is involved, unless I can't get it with a breaker.

 

I was never able to get the fill plug off on my 93 toyota truck. I could get the drain plug out......AND the diff breather....so that was how I filled it.

 

Welcome from SE PA!

 

229k on mine. my rear fill plug came out remarkably easy considering it's a Minnesota truck.

 

Key Takeaways:

1) Front diff plug is a 10mm allen key.

2) Front diff and Tranfer can take

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 Mobil1 synthetic gear oil. Works nicely.

3) Rear diff requires 90w (non-synthetic). 90w cannot be readily found, so defer to the spec’d 80w-90 gear oil by Lucas Oil (for limited slip). DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC MOBIL1. It will grumble if you do.

4) Remove your fill plugs first before draining so you aren’t caught in a pickle.

 

Need to change out my rear dif fluid today on my 2004 Tundra 2WD. Its already making noises when taking off from fully stopped if going uphill or turning. What should I use?

I dont think I have a limited slip dif. Im confused because the manual says 75W-140. I was going to use Mobile One

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90. Any advice?

 

I would go with what the manual says personally.

 

Use what your manual says which is what I do for the 2002 (80w-90 for rear diff). Dino or Syn should be fine for you (if no LSD).

 

Just noticed I have a sticker on there that says LSD oil only. Manual says I need SAE 90. Is that the same as

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90? Then get the LSD additive correct?

 

Yeah, I have accumulated a bunch of odd tools I will probably only use a handful of times thanks to that car.

I had the same concern about the impact with corrosion so will definitely start with the breaker bar after some time with the penetrating oil.

Thank you for the input, this was the approach I was thinking of initially but wanted to see what others has success with.

 

Re-read post #17 again.

For the rear, the Lucas 80w-90 has the LS stuff already in it, hence ‘for limited slip’. Autozone carries it for about $8.99. Good stuff!

 

This is what I just put in mine 2 weeks ago based on your recommendation. I did that as a last ditch effort to fix whatever I'm feeling when I come to a stop. Previously, I had the

$39 75W-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W-90 Royal Purple in there since last summer which I thought was fine. So far, the issue hasn't happened since I went to Lucas. I'm going to give it a few more weeks before calling it fixed. Honestly, I really didn't think that was the cause. I've been in Europe for the past 10 days so haven't had a chance to drive it much since the swap. Time will tell.

 

Welcome from AZ!

 

Just did my rear dif... I used the Lucas as well.

I know that it was way overdue on this truck... possibly 80-90k miles. I definitely had some decent size metal shavings stuck to the magnetic plug. Does this indicate some damage? I can provide pics if needed. Thanks!

 

The noise combined with metal shavings..yeah I'd say its definitely not good. Probably didn't help it's lifespan.

I had zero metal shavings the 2 times I've changed mine. Post some pictures.

 

Here is my rear diff plug after 20k miles. I’m of the understanding that this fine stuff is normal. The 2 chunks in your pic are not normal. Glad they are out of there now!

 

Heres what I had on mine.

 

Hmm, well this sounds like something I am going to have to tackle here soon since the weather is nice and I am working through changing all of the fluids. My truck has be in Northern Ohio and Indiana I think so we'll see how this shakes out for me. Good info in this thread!