New to me Tundra

I just bought a 2006 Tundra SR5 double cab with the TRD package. It has 195000 miles on it and so far I am really liking this truck. It has been maintained by the local Toyota dealer its whole life including oil changes. I paid 4000 for it with a bad battery and the hood latch rusted shut, is that a decent price? There are not many 1st gen Tundras in Wisconsin to compare it to. It does not have that much rust for being in the rust belt its whole life, the underside and the frame are clean with just a little surface rust that I plan on cleaning up. The only body rust is on the lower portion of the drivers door. I kinda want to get it fixed because I hate looking at rust. It is starting to bubble and discolor the paint, what is the best way to fix this? The other problem I have to fix is a super annoying belt squeak, I am going to put on a Goodyear Gatorback belt this weekend because I have read they are the best to avoid sqeaking. I believe it is the belt because if I spray the belt with a little WD40 the squeak immediately goes away. I was also told it will not pass emissions because of the AIPs, right now there is no check engine light so I believe they are working correctly. I don't have to worry about emissions because of the county I live in. If the light comes on I was thinking about doing bypass kit. Has anyone done this? I would also like to do a 2.5 in leveling kit with either blocks or an add a leaf in the rear. I don't care about the towing capacity because I have a F350 for towing so I was leaning towards blocks since they are cheaper and don't stiffen the ride in the rear. I also read that with the leveling kit I should do the front diff drop kit. The truck also came with a Century cap that I'm trying sell as well as the running boards that I took off. Any thing else I should do to maintain the truck to keep it going? The timing belt was done 50K ago.

 

Welcome from NY.

 

Welcome from Ohio!

 

Sounds like you stole it. Welcome.

 

Nice truck Welcome from MN! Looks like you got a pretty good deal. Salt is killer.

 

also, how much do you want for the cap? I'm in the market for one.

 

Damn good deal! good luck with it.

 

Welcome from Texas

 

Welcome from CO

 

Welcome from CO.

 

WELCOME

 

Welcome from SE PA!

 

Welcome!

 

Welcome to the club! Cant help you with rust, never seen it. Belt is an easy fix, and I believe there's a thread on the AIP bypass on here somewhere. Just be sure you're searching in the 1st gen section. For leveling bilstein 51something or 6112s will cover that. Coilovers would be the expensive albeit better way for that. Blocks or aals will put the rake back in the stance if leveling. For maintenance, change all the fluids, PCV valve, rear diff breather mod, clean your TB and MAF, put eyes on your rear brakes and proportioning thingy, check for play in your prop shaft, check for play in the ball joints and front suspension, and uhhh....I think that should cover most of it.

 

Thanks for the welcomes. I bought it from a family friend so that is why I got a pretty good deal. I was reading the service records and noticed the PCV value was done recently so that is one thing I wont have to worry about. I think the rear brakes were also done recently, but I will take a look at them. I'm not to familiar with drum so I have some reading to do. The parking brake cable also broke when I was loading it onto the trailer so I wont be parking on any hills to that can get fixed. I think I am going to stop by the body shop and see what they would want to fix the door.

 

I can't figure out how to quote a post, but I am not really sure what the cap is worth. It is a 2011 Century with sliding windows and screens as well as a carpeted interior.

 

welcome from CO, that is a nice cap and you got a great deal

 

I was looking for a Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt to try to fix the squeak but it appears they were purchased by Continental and they are now producing them under their elite line, does anyone know if this is true? If this is true are they still the best option? And lastly does anyone know the part number for it, I can't seem to find it anywhere.

 

Nice looking truck. As far as the rust on the drivers door, you’ll need to find a good body shop for that. The Leveling/lift kit really depends on what you’re willing to spend and how you plan to use your truck. Do you also plan to install slightly larger tires? I would

 

Nice, if you were anywhere near ATL I'd gladly take it off your hands...and yea, you got a great deal on that truck.

 

he said in the OP that he's in Wisconsin.

 

That's why I said "If you were" as opposed to "if you are"... and so you know, DC and AC caps are not interchangeable...at least not if you want them to be waterproof

On another note, anybody looking to sell a shell for a 2004-2006 DC and aren't too far from ATL, let me know.

 

Howdy from DFW and nice truck Travis great name too

 

Welcome from Nevada

 

I was thinking about larger tires at some point, but the tires that are on it right now are only one year old and I don't want to spend money I don't need to. And I don't mind the stock rims

 

Welcome!

Sounds to me like you got a killer deal. Where I'm at in Indiana that truck would sell for close to double that.

@bmf4069 said it best, do those maintenance things he mentioned and you'll be golden. Check out the 'what have you done to your tundra today' sticky thread and it will also help give you ideas. And you see some of the regulars there who can help out should the need ever arise!

congrats on buying a great truck that will still last you for years to come!

 

Yes, I agree, those stock rims are excellent. If you have the budget, I recommend the OME lift kit from toytec. It will serve you well, plus you’ll prepared for larger tires in the future. You can also use a 10% coupon code if you order anything through toytec. Here is the link for the ome.

 

That is more than I am wanting to spend. I was trying to keep it under 500 for the lift, diff drop, and alignment. I was planning on getting this for the diff drop, then I was thinking about getting this leveling kit, https://www.roughcountry.com/toyota-suspension-lift-kit-750s.html
I know that Rough Country does not have the best reputation but how bad can they screw up spacers in the front and blocks in the rear. The only question would be the shocks but I am willing to put my money on them being better then the originals on there now.

 

I changed the belt with a Continental Elite (Goodyear Gatorback) and all the squeaking is gone even during cold startups. They discontinued that style of belt but I was able to find one on ebay for only 20 bucks. Looking through the service records I noticed the previous owner paid 150 bucks for a belt replacement at the dealer, another reason to learn to turn a wrench! I also ordered a leaving kit to raise the front 2.5 in and the back 1.5 in to get the stance that I am looking for. When I get it installed I will post some pictures. I am a huge fan of the "prerunner" look. So I was thinking of building a custom bumper/skid plate to achieve this look. The other thing to achieve this look would be to push the wheels out with spacers. I am a little afraid to run spacers with the extra stress they put on suspension components, especially with the LBJ I have read so much about. Does anyone have experience or opinions about running spacers?