Shutter or jolt as I come to a stop

I've been noticing over the past month or two that as I slowly roll to a stop at a light something odd is happening. Right before the truck comes to a stop I'm getting a shutter or jolt. I don't know how else to explain it. It doesn't do it every time but seems to be happening more frequently. It doesn't feel like the transmission or brakes. No noise is made that I can hear.

It's really only noticeable enough to be annoying and I'm not sure how to diagnose it. Could it be a U Joint issue? I'm not sure if that has ever been replaced on this truck.

Thoughts?

 

It's the infamous rolling to a stop Toyota Truck coming to a stop shudder/tranny bump etc etc. It is your transmission downshifting to first not so smoothly and you can feel it being taken up in the driveline. It's completely normal...all my Tundra's had it (it's worse when the transmission is cold because the downshift is not as smooth when the transmission is not up to temp, like at the end of my driveway when I first start up). You can minimize it (if not outright eliminate it) by keeping all the appropriate driveline lubrication points well lubed. Do a search for tundra driveline lubrication, there are a bunch of examples of it on the web. It was particularly annoying on my 2017 Tacoma because that transmission is so $%$# up in how it manages up/downshifts.

 

Grease the zerk fittings on your drivetrain.

 

Just ordered a grease gun and grease. I'll start with this.

 

Interesting. I've never heard of this. I just found it odd that it's gotten worse the past few months but maybe it's the cold as you suggest. Thanks for the info.

 

Greased all the zerks today(except for the 1 mystery zerk) problem appears to be solved. Really glad it wasn't a U Joint.

 

That mystery zerk in the middle of the double cardan is the most important. Its there if you look closer.

 

My bad. I was talking about the closest to the front of the truck that won't accept grease.

Also, this one in the back never showed any grease after 4 pumps or so. I was afriad to keep going.

 

What kinda grease do yall use? I have a grease gun with red in it we use on our construction equipment. Gtg?

 

You can pump more grease into it, you can't really over grease them.

For your other one the zerk is probably blocked. You can unscrew it and pick up another one at Napa for a buck.

 

Good question. I have a feeling the avg shop just uses whatever grease they buy in bulk.
I know the manual is specific.

Could you get away with using the red? Probably. look and see what type it is.

Fred sent me this.



I bought this. It says NLGI2 on it so I used it for all.

 

I was watching a video on this and the guy said there is one zerk that only gets 2-3 pumps. Any more and it will build up too much pressure and cause damage.

I'll try to see which one he was referring to.

Also, I was not expecting the noise it made once the seal broke. Sounded like popcorn popping. Next time I won't go so long before greasing.

 

That may have been the prop shaft slide.

That's honestly why I prefer sealed joints I on the shafts. 1 because I'm lazy and 2 because I forget.

 

I greased mine a few times over the course of a month to push out any debris that may have built up inside the u-joint. That popping sound is air being pushed out which means dirt is in there too. Basically, you are ‘flushing’ the dirt out with the first few greasings. Always make sure your zerk tips are clean before greasing.

 

That is true. Because I relied, on first the dealership, and then my other mechanics for 15 years the prop shaft never was greased in ??? years.

A proper greased ‘greasable’ u-joint is better than a sealed u-joint. Caveat: Only if one remembers to grease it.

 

It took about 3 separate greasings before the prop shaft slide had grease push out around the shaft. Maybe 20 pumps over 3 sessions. Last time I pumped 3 pumps on the slide no grease exited. I see a thin film of grease on the shaft which it good.

 

Is this the prop shaft slide you guys are referring to? That's the one that showed no grease. I did it first and thought my gun wasn't working.

 

Yep. The shaft slides on that yoke. You’ll see grease exiting about 8” forward of that green arrowed zerk that you’ll be greasing.

 

I don't think that's the case. Hand Model had the same problem and even tried a needle. For me, the grease gun just wouldn't latch onto that zerk. Almost like it's a different design. It wasn't that it wouldn't open. Good suggestion though.

 

I know it’s not the same thing as we are different generations, but a few of the fittings on my truck takes some serious effort for my gun to snap on to.

 

Copy that. I'll try it again.

 

Haha no promises.

 

I wonder if it’s possible to exchange that fitting one of the standard ones.

 

I think Fester is discussing the (6) zerks on the rear prop. My private discussion with you about using the grease needle was in regards to the front (4wd) propellor, as the same grease gun/tip sucessfully used on the rear propellor (6) zerks did not work on the (2) 4wd zerks for some reason. I then tried the needle on the (2) front zerks without sucess.

If anyone has had sucess greasing their front prop (2) 4wd zerks let me know. Its as if those zerks have a different angle of attack on them. The grease gun fitting is too big to ‘lock’ on the zerks. A needle pushed in the zerk doesn’t work either. Anyone ideas?

 

I’ve had luck with different brand grease guns. Some heads are too bulky. Have you thought about maybe an angled tip? They make all sorts of fun attachments LOL

 

The needle one only works for me if I get the ball dead on. I have not done the zerks on my gen1 in a while. I remember my fronts being bigger than the rears. I have a kit I use.

 

I've got a narrow coupler on mine haven't had any issues getting to the zerks.

They sometimes require getting the shaft in just the right position though.

 

Think you can spin it around

 

Nice kit!

You could go semi-pro model with those hands.