Now closed! 10" JBL sub & box from tech12volts group buy.

Anyone know when that glue smell goes away from past experience?

 

Mines been in a week today and it still has a slight smell.

 

I have had mine in a week and it's been gone for a few days. I left my back window rolled down one night in the garage and it was pretty much gone after that.

 

Thanks, I’ll give that a try.

 

mine has been "airing out" in the garage for the past 4 days (received on monday jan 28th)... mostly waiting until tomorrow morning, which will be my first opportunity for install.

just sniffed it. no glue smell until i stick my schnoz in the port; then i smell spray on glue pretty strong still.

 

Got mine Tuesday, but due to it being -26 and below freezing in the garage, I installed it last night. Hardest part for me was getting my sons booster seat out. I went the route of pulling the factory harness out of the old sub and connecting it that way. The only issue I have is the back seat doesn’t seem to line up correctly with the passenger side. Might look at it once it gets warmer.

 

I’m having the same issue. From the top view the seats appear to be aligned, but the cushions are approx 1/4” to 1/2” further forward than the passenger side. I checked to make sure box was all the way back and center. Torques back down to specs as well. Anyone else have a fix to this?

 

I’m curious about this as well, getting ready to install here as soon as my son goes down for a nap. Misaligned seats would drive me crazy. I’m pretty sure there is some play in the seat. Maybe loosen them up and have someone push back on the seat bottom towards the bed of the truck while you torque them down?

 

I also put the box more towards the drivers side than centered. It was tough getting th seat to go back but that sub isn’t going anywhere.

 

I had my wife push back on the seat and relocated the sub box more towards the driver's side, but still slightly misaligned when looking at the cushions. @KnuckleHD let me know how it goes for you. super easy install, took approx 40 mins.

 

I finished mine today. Wow, what a difference. And I ordered the 5 channel amp, DSR1 and speakers all the way around on Thursday. I'll probably never get out of my truck after all that is in. I have a collection of CDs that I sampled thru....I am "tail end of the baby boom" so it was Best of Eagles, some Little Feat and even an old Lou Bega album.....I can feel the bottom of my truck thumping while sitting still. Who knew. I'll probably have to get a lift kit and dual exhaust with real V8 sound now to match the audio. Upgrades every weekend since I drove this thing off the lot in early January. Glad I beat the dealer up on my F150 crapbox trade in. At least that's how I'm justifying it.

After reading a few of the above posts, I checked my seat alignment....to be honest, I may never have noticed it...my seats came out level horizontally and there is an ever so slight forward cant on the seat back, just a tad more space to jam your fingers in behind the headrests. I measured 3" from the outside of the sub box to that first old sub bracket bolt on the rear drivers side floor (where the wiring harness is/was). I'd say my sub box sits a bit closer to the drivers side door than centered behind the seat....hope that helps anyone who has a noticeable mis alignment.

I cut the wire off inside the old sub, unclipped the wire harness and pushed the black rubber grommet back inside to get it out...stripped off the fabric and clipped it back into the OEM harness just like others have done. Gives you plenty of length to make the final connections - I forget who did that first but that was an EXCELLENT tip. Thank you.

 

i also was the recipient of a ups drop.

received monday, installed this morning (sat), farts...

emailed james at 11 this morning; he responded within about an hour and a half requesting serial number. i provided and received shipping notification for replacement about 30 minutes later.

all this on a saturday.

kudos james to great CS! looking forward to the replacement.

 

Finally got around to installing the new sub last night.
1. Move drivers seat forward to create room for back seat
2. Fold up bottom of rear seat to gain access to the 4- 17mm bolts
Remove bolts and keep track of the rear bolt from the inside bracket. I used a marking pen but it’s not necessary as the threads are easily noticeable.
3. Push the top of the seats back towards the bed to loosen them up and get the alignment tabs out of their hole. Lift up and scoot the entire seat forward towards the front seat
4. Once the alignment tabs clear the front of the footboard you should be able to lean the back seat up against the front. It’s sturdy and much easier than removing the whole thing, especially if you are by yourself.
5. Remove the 3-10mm bolts holding in the stock sub and uplug the harness.
6. (Optional) Re-install the 10mm bolts back into their original location for safe keeping/ plugging holes.
7. Remove the mounting screws on the new sub, gently lift up on the speaker and remove the foam packaging. Ensure the speaker is set to 2ohms and wires are securely connected. Reinstall the mounting screws.
8. Remove the T20 torx mounting screws from the stock sub. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry under the metal ring (not the black plastic one) to break the glue. The sub will come right out.
9. Snip the wires to your desired length. Any length will do. I cut mine a few inches shy of where it’s tied to the speaker.
10. Use the same flat head screw driver to push the black plastic plug towards the inside of the speaker and thread the wiring through.
11. Peel back the foam insulation and separate the black and green wires on the stock harness. Strip the ends of each wire and prep for connection. I just twisted them but you can use fancy connectors if you so choose.
12. Place new sub in back seat ensuring it is all the way down and back. Pause and smile at how good it looks.
13. RE-connect the stock harness and plug newly prepped wires into the new sub (black wire to red post and green wire to black post). Tuck the excess harness behind the plastic body panel for clean look. (Pic below)
14. Carefully lift up the rear seat and place the alignment tabs back in their spot
15. Hand thread the bolts back making sure to place the “special” bolt back in the correct spot
16. Use as many hands, prayers, and curse words as possible to get the seat back into its proper place.
17. Torque the bolts down to 31ft lbs.
18. Sit back and enjoy!

I had the same issue as a lot of other people and could not get the seats perfect. The front of the seats line up perfect but the top seam between the left and right seats are off about 1/4”.
Total “install” time was about 35 minutes. Include “messing with seat” time and it was closer to 90 minutes. I got it as close as possible and gave up. To be continued with that one..

 

Great write-up. Appreciate it!

 

Fantastically detailed write-up...possibly a fellow sufferer of a mild case of OCD?

 

Has anyone installed the seat flush? I’m wondering if we doing something wrong.

 

Great write-up, I did exactly that but I might add to remove aftermarket matts and place a piece tin/plastic in front of frame then after you remove all the bolts tip the seat forward and place a 1" to 1 1/2" piece of wood under the seat frame and tip back and it should pop the alignment dowels out then slide the seat forward on the tin/plastic and a little push to the passengers side to keep it balanced upward. Also I did notice how tight it was when reinstalling the seat, next time around I will not reinstall the upper driver's side mounting bolt maybe to give it a little more clearance.
I was one of the unfortunate ones with a bad sub but a quick e-mai to James and another is on the way.

 

I have an 09 Crewmax so my back seat slides on a track and the seat back tilts forward for access to the back wall. I store stuff back there (mag mount antenna, safe jack, viair compressor, etc) so I wanted some protection for the sub. I bought a 12” sub grate/grille from Amazon HIGH QUALITY UNIVERSAL 12" CAR AUDIO METAL SUB WOOFER GRILLE 12 INCHES GRILL

$13 Universal 12" Car Audio Metal Sub Woofer Grille 12"es Grill

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I552BO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oYYvCb7Z9QJBS and after some modification to the grille and plastic trim ring mounted it. I think it will provide the protection I’m looking for.

 

Haha just a little bit

 

I don’t think we’re doing anything wrong. It’s just par for the course. My guess is there is a brace behind the seat that is hitting the enclosure. It’d be a PITA to grind down the extra material, but I’m overall very satisfied.

 

I’m about 99% sure it’s the inside mounting bracket. I stuck my hand back there and felt around and that’s the only place the sub is making contact. Messing around with the pattern of bolt tightening helps. I’m willing to bet that if you cut the rubber mat off (below the window) it would fit perfectly.
I’m very happy with the performance and the price and grateful that pudge and James set this up. However, I would be lying if I didn’t admit that I’m a little peeved that the seat doesn’t go back to its stock position as promised. Then again, maybe I’m just doing something wrong...

 

Installed mine and went smooth. 30 min install. Wondering if anyone has installed 2 of these units. One behind each seat.

 

My seat is flush (or at least close enough I can't tell), I cut the factory sound deadening from behind the box and started tightening the bolts at the middle back bolt. Now I just have to contact them because I recieved a bad/damaged sub.

 

I left the existing sound deadoning curtain on and havent done additional sound deadoning yet so this is basically stock + ESP locking storage and its good on top but widens going down the seat. Hardly noticable. Wish all you "gappers" luck getting it flush again

 

for those who notice their seats are no longer "flush".

has anyone thought of shimming the passenger rear seat rear bolts with a washer or two? should prevent any cutting of sound deadening material.

think im going to try this route. my backseat is still in my garage, awaiting my replacement sub.

obviously have not tried this method just yet, but tossing the idea out there.

 

I am thinking about shimming mine a bit. I have several layers of sound deadening in my truck and my seat barely fit back in. I will try shimming but will likely need to remove some material or grind down the steel bracket

 

Hey guys, more hypothetical than anything, but what would happen if the switch on the JBL sub was set to 4 ohm instead of 2 ohm?

 

No need to shim . That rubber mat behind the seat does nothing at all. You shouldn't have to cut it as al the boxes are exactly the same size. The sub does have to be in the middle of the drivers seat make the alignment bolts are all the way seated on the seat also. We actually build a box that is bigger than this that fits also. If you have one the subs that got damaged in shipping Please email me . UPS was extremely hard on these for some reason tech12volt@gmail.com

 

Installed it finally and wow. This thing exceeded my expectations. Didn’t think the stock amp can push a sub this well. Hell I didn’t even know I had a sub with the stock sub! I can hear/feel frequesncies I never did before. Very happy with the sub. Can’t wait for the door speakers.

My seats align properly. Once the seat is lined up, I just put some weight on the seat and it went into place.

Installed photos.

 

Got mine yesterday! Looks like it survived the UPS gorillas, so that's good.

Got the foam out but was disappointed that a couple of the screws weren't tight due to them being mounted near the edge of the cutout and they basically blew out the wood.

Also, and I may have missed this....Are all of yours missing carpet in the middle of the back of the box?