No more 130 or 150 amp alternators?

I'm going to be replacing the alternator on my 2015 CM SR5 4x4. Looking for an OEM replacement but several dealers have told me only the 100 Amp is available, 27060-0S030.

27060-0S020, 150 amp and 27060-0S010, 130 amp are discontinued??

 

Get it rebuilt. No reason to buy new anyway.

 

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/parts-list/2017-toyota-tundra/alternator.html

https://miamialternators.com/Toyota-Tundra-v8-5.7L-Alternator-150-amp-2010-2016-11352/

 

https://miamialternators.com/Toyota-Tundra-v8-5.7L-Alternator-150-amp-2010-2016-11352/

 

I love my Mechman 240 amp alternator! You can pick the color you want it to be as well.

 

denso 104210-5090 150 amp
denso 104210-5080 130 amp

 

Just a heads up for anyone thinking of doing a larger alternator. You have to upgrade your main positive and ground leads to 1/0 cables. This was told to me by Mechmans technical support when I bought mine.

 

Thanks for the heads up

 

I was hoping this would come up.. Im curious at what point the upgrade becomes neutral or negative (puns intended).
Was the VR and any supporting electronics/cables capable of delivery long term? Outside of the leads are their any other possible upgrades to the system?? When does 150 turn to 500etc.

Just curious

It looks like you have all kinds of additions and upgrades, but for the stock guy with no light bars, subs, etc... Maybe 150 is plenty?

 

If your not running a large stereo with multiple amps, lots of light bars or other electrical stuff then 150 should be plenty. I plan on doing a full stereo soon and I didn’t want my amps to clip or have my headlights to dim.

 

Good ol Texas.

 

This reminds me of the old days when my stereo system would hit, my headlights would dim LMFAO. As a kid I would laugh and say fuck yeah!! That’s what I’m talking about! Bumping!

Instead of upgrading my alternator I installed a big capacitor. It seemed to help.

 

This is overkill IMO for a lot of applications.

Specifically for the ALT to (+) battery and (-) of battey to chassis since the length of the wires are short.

The factory 4 gauge wires to the battery from the ALT and chassis are fine for 250-300amps at 12.7v to 13.8V because the wires length are less than 4ft. This length and 4 gauge would have the same resistance as a 0 gauge and would not see any voltage drop or added heat.

To me it’s just time & money wasted for most typical applications to upgrade to 0 gauge.

However, adding a power distribution block is very convenient.

 

200amp @idle

 

Pulley change?

 

Thank you guys for the replies.

For y’all with the MechMan, did the higher AMPs confuse your ECU? I’ve heard of some people having issues with the computer being confused with the higher output.

Also, is Denso OEM?

I’m definately not looking for an O’Reilly or AutoZone reman. I’ve heard too many horror stories about bad VRs. It’s too much work to install o e to find out the VR is bad.


Oh, and what’s up with Miami alternators? I’ve heard several recommend them, are they just a reputable reman shop?

 

Upgrading the alternator is overkill for probably 98% of vehicle on the road. I don’t know about you, but I’m not a manufacturer or supplier off alternators. But when Mechman told me you need to change the OEM Positive and negative leads, that’s what I did. Plus I think we can all agree I’m not running a “typical application” for electrical needs.

 

You upgraded your truck? Looks stock to me!

 

So...how common is it that an alternator needs to be replaced on a Tundra that is only 3-4 years old? of course, not including alts that need upgrading due to mods.

 

Yup my truck is all stock. Haha

 

....plus....I've seen the high output alternators used with some folks doing welding situations out on the trail dealing with breakdowns. Gets you a lot of props and free beer...just sayin...

 

It’s your time and $.

I don’t know about you but I have a BSEE and an electrical engineer.

It’s simple Ohm’s Law. The reason for a larger gauge is to prevent voltage drop and heat across the length of the wire carrying the current.

As I stated before, 4 ft of 4 gauge wire is plenty to carry 300amp @ 13.8v. Do the math and that’s 4,140 WATTS!

That’s more than enough to power the a few 400WATT huge LED off road light bars, a few 50WATT Foglamps and spot lights and a 1000watts stereo along with keeping the rest of the truck’s electrical system happy.

I see your avatar and nice truck but even if you install so many color LEDS and other lights to signal alien spaceships at night (not typical application), that factory 4 gauge wire that’s less than 4ft from the alternator to the battery and chassis ground wire is plenty enough.

The wire gauge is very specific to the individual circuit. The ALT to the battery and battery to chassis GND are their own separate circuits in regards to the length and gauge of the wire.

Now, if you are relocating the battery to the back of the truck, then you will need the 0 gauge as that’s 10ft and will have higher resistance and voltage drop across that 10ft compared to the 4ft 4 gauge.

Each accessory should have the right gauge wire to handle the current it’s going to deliver to that item and each should be looked at as a separate circuit.

But it’s your time and money and the manufacturer is just making recommendations or maybe an associated sale. Hell, people buy Fuel Injector cleaner at Auto-zone when the clerk does the upsell, but it makes them feel happy.

 

Just replaced mine 2 weeks ago with 150 amp. Bearing went out on mine and sounded terrible at 70k miles. Took me 6 hrs to replace on jack stands and a creeper. Pray the reman. I got is good for a while .Don't want to have to do that again.

 

I think that is my issue. The bearing. It’s testing good, but I have a noise I’m trying to isolate right now. It first sounded like the heat shields on the catalytic converters were loose. Hard to discribe the sound.

 

Yes that's what I originally thought mine was. I crawled underneath it with a mechanic stethoscope I figured out that's it was the alternator. It was making a sound like a heat shield vibration, but was a rythmatic rotational sound. Like you say, hard to describe.

 

I tell people that aren’t into trucks that mine came like that and walk away

 

With the belt off, could you turn the pulley on the alternator and tell the bearing was bad?

 

You probably could do that, but after I got the old one off I spun the pulley and it was rough spinning compared to the new one that spun smooth as glass. Really don't know why they bury the alternator on the bottom of these motors... Not a fun repair.