What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Discovered a cracked cigarette lighter trim piece was concealed by the XM installers 15 years ago. They did a good job hiding it for me to not see all these years. Used some black sticky putty. Ended up just snapping the trim all the way off as its not needed. The last bulb to replace is here and its a doozy to get at. May just not worry about this one as the old green bulb is still working.

 

Oil check looks good. Removed cap and found some cottage cheese.

 

Fred, how did you access the bulb for the ignition ring?

 

4-10mm bolts under the steering wheel. Pull and pop off that panel. Ignition Key will be revealed. There is a small tab (pic below) that holds the ring in place and needs to be pulled out. The ring with light attached will then pull off the ignition assy as pictured above.

 

Mobil1 Adv. Full Synthetic Oil at 2500 miles post Liqui-Moly Flush. Looks good.

Will be changing in 500 miles.

 

Hopefully all is going well! I’m excited to see it all buttoned down and with them 285/75 Coopers!

 

Is this an known upgrade, or are you testing the waters to see how they perform?

 

A bit of both. A little nervous to be honest.

My original plan was to remove existing injectors and have them same day serviced locally. Ohm and sprayed tested and sonic cleaned. Total cost about $300 with new O-rings.

Saw these 12 holes Denso type (reman’d) at Dirty Deeds website and talked with Keith who is the owner and he says he has them on his 1st Gen truck so I feel confident about them and trust his word. According to him they come from an injector shop he uses fully tested and they put the 12 hole plate on them. Cost $330 with O-rings. No brainer $ if they work as discussed. Plus, no need to rush job doing same day injector service as I have a reman’d set already to go.

With big(er) tires I need to re-gear for ultimate performance. According to Keith these injectors will help with some downshifting irregularities due to larger tires (285/75/r16). Re-gearing will be the next step. Injectors are the first step in the process.

If things go south, I can always re-install the old injectors after having serviced them.

From other sources, the extra holes help with atomization and combustion efficiency. I believe the fuel flow in the rails will stay the same due to ECU controls, but atomization will be enhanced. Another benefit is the injectors will be clean so flow rates will be equal to each piston in theory. I noticed my old coil packs showed some more burnt than others and wonder if thats due to uneven flow rates... the reason I am going down this road.

 

Had another busy day. These weekends go by too fast.

• Completed the oil flush/purge. Fred is right about doing it twice. I wouldn't recommend doing the flush unless you're willing to do it twice. I had actual chunks come out the 2nd time after driving 40 miles.
• Tightened the throttle cable.
• Cleaned all the gunk off the front diff and trans breather.
• Started brake fluid drain and refill.
• Fluid filmed a few places I had previously missed.

First round:


2nd round. Notice it looks like 3k mile oil, not 40 miles. No way that I'd leave that in for 5k.



Chunks:


2nd round GIF.

 

Whoa! Chunks! Amazing. Maybe your oil pressure will be better as those chunks usually come from small ports. Liqui-Molly doing its job.

 

Ya I'm really not sure what they are chunks of. They were soft to the touch with consistency like play dough. I will probably change the oil again in 3,000 miles. Unlikely that I'll wait till 5,000. I used Mobile One synthetic as well.

 

Sludge build up that is what it is. Glad you did the sacrificial flush. Those BMW guys were right about doing two changes as those engines seem to sludge up quickly for whatever reason. Good job. Did you blow test your diff breathers? Or just clean them?

 

Tear down has gone somewhat smooth. Passenger cv is the only thing left and of course it’s not coming out easily.

 

I wasn't sure how they came apart. Do they twist off or pull out? I did spin them and could tell a difference before/after.

 

They pull off the tubes. Might need to twist back and forth since its never been done. They should slip right out and push right back on. You’ll need to hold the tube. They come off that clamp bracket for easier access to pull.

 

Got that bastard out and now for a little clean up.

 

That scene looks so familiar except those funny things between the lower arm mounts.

 

Legit AF.
I want a grill like that but I want to keep the V8 emblem in the corner.

 

That c-clip didn’t want to budge huh? What did the trick?

A little Crowbar leverage pop? Lol

 

The crowbars weren’t doing the trick. A brass punch and a 4lb hammer did.

 

Connected the battery and turned the key. Its alive!!!


After letting it idle for a bit and pumping the brakes until I felt pressure I backed out of my parking spot and drove a lap around the complex. It does smell really awful, like maybe a lot of water condensation went on in the motor. Smells like wet metal or burnt coolant but this happened before after not driving it for months. I will change oil real soon.

As I guessed the alignment is all fooked up, this is me going straight


Did a cruise around the lot under 10mph. Felt really smooth, it has never felt so smooth. Got back to park and checked out how things settled, another guess I was right on is I am just on the superbumps at ride height.


Did a lock to lock turn to check brake line clearance, it's scary. At static height my passenger side just clears the lower spring perch, driver side just hits. I'll look into that again after alignment.

Passenger


Driver (marks on spring from contact)


It is alive though. Ride height is right where I wanted it and the ride itself is so kush. I need to clean it up and get alignment now.

 

More like


Went for another lap, hit the speed bumps at 20mph and couldn't tell until all the crap in the bed jumped. Parked and checked again, lower and upper arms are at a really reasonable angle and that was a part of the goal. My arms were all cranked too far and killing the ride before. If they stay this way after alignment I will be real happy.

ABS light went off again, it had happened a few times in the months before I updated the calipers. I can figure that out next I guess.

 

Did I miss a list of what you did? I never heard why it was parked.

 

New:
Lower ball joints
Lower control arms with bushings
Outer tie rod ends
Wheel bearings
Upper arm bushings, sleeves and uniballs
Superbump bumpstops
Reservoir mounts
Alignment cam bolts
Battery
Rebuilt coilovers
Fixed a welded nut for my skidplate that snapped off

During the course of all this I ran into snowboard season which means no time on weekends, and managed to bust a rib.

 

I little cutting and soldering today, got a cigarette lighter charger for my two-way radio.

 

Just wanted to say you were right. After doing the purge and refilling with Mobil1 I can't positively read the dip stick. It's that clear.

 

Its frightening clear. You notice any quieter engine or any other tangible differences?

 

Nothing yet. I still have a "tick" at times. I've noticed that before it fully warms up it just sounds a little raspy. Hard to explain. Once the engine warms up it sounds great.