2007 Tundra frame replacement

Hi guys - new to the forum but not to Tundras

So i just picked up a 2007 Crewmax with 186K miles (1 owner, New England truck, $5,800). Brought it to Toyota today for a couple recall items and a frame inspection (failed). So before i get ready to have them do a frame i wanted some opinions on other items I should replace while it is apart. The dealer said they will replace any parts i provide (i.e. shocks).

My plan is to get a 3" lift but i cannot choose between ToyTec BOSS, ToyTec Ultimate or ToyTec Eibach or even the OME. The truck will be on road 99.9% of the time. What are your thoughts?

Planning on new wheels and tires 285/75/18 with some appropriate wheel (any thoughts on powder coating the OE wheels?)

Also - what other parts should be replaced during the frame swap.

Thanks for the input

 

Also - running boards are coming off - cant stand them

 

Let's see the frame, post plenty of pics, i want to see how bad it is before Toyota decides to replace it.

 

Welcome @bumbaim I just asked the same question a week ago. Sadly, haven't heard from anyone with experience.
Here's my take while I'm still waiting on the full scope of warranty work; (anything labor intensive to replace once assembled)
Spark plugs (8)
Water pump
Struts and shocks (4)
Full exhaust including converter pipes
Maybe swaybar end-links and turn rotors...

 

Thanks @Chards77 - like you point out i want to replace any wear item that is much easier while the truck is apart. When they replaced my 2001 Tundra frame (a few years back), they replaced all the brake and fuel lines along with the power steering rack, shocks and fuel tank straps.

 

When they do the frame they also do the alignment so anything that can effect that (ball joints, tie rod, etc.) would be worth doing.

 

@Dr_Al , is that covered under warranty work?

They could possibly be liable for putting out a dangerous truck that couldn't hold alignment. Similar to when they "turn rotors as a complimentary service" when a customer refuses to pay for that work.

In my case they said front struts were leaking and should be replaced along with a pinhole in an exhaust weld, I'm curious if they're double dipping on the strut charge . If I say no will they cover it?

 

@Chards77 for my last Tundra they said the shock mounting bolts were rusted on so they "had" to cut them off - and I had to pay for new shocks - i was a little suspect.

 

On my 2000 I was told that if I didn't want to replace a part it would be noted on the paperwork that I was told it was needed for safety reason and I had refused. That absolved them of being legally responsibilities. At the bottom of the paperwork it has my signature on it. Any part that wasn't covered but couldn't be removed without damaging it was on my dime. Since they had done plenty before my truck they knew what parts would cause them problems so they warned me in advance. The dealership had a 2 man team that did just frame replacements so they got efficient fast. On my Tundra I had a broken leaf spring. They would only use Toyota brand springs (which cost about 5x what aftermarket ones cost) so I did them myself. But I didn't want to replace them until after the new frame simply because the choice was old and rusty or new and just installed bolts.

 

Thanks @Dr_Al that's valuable info.

Somewhat surprising about the collateral damage to functional parts being the owners responsibility. It's Toyota's fault the frame is being removed after all.

I'm just happy to get some fresh parts that allow me to own it another 10 years with minimal maintenance.

 

Just ordered my ToyTec Eibach 3" lift. Will keep you posted with items that get replaced

 

I am in the same exact situation with my 2007 CrewMax Limited. I bought it in October, and the frame was the only open recall that hadn't been dealt with. I brought it in to the local dealership, and it originally passed inspection. But when they started wrenching on it, they found one tiny hole (according to them), so they put in an order for a new frame. I have no idea how long it will take, as apparently Toyota has to fabricate the frame from scratch. I wasn't going to complain, though. Been really happy with the truck so far (it was immaculate inside and out when I got it), so if I could get another 10 years out of it, I'd be thrilled.

 

My tundra is pretty clean as well. Although I noticed some rust/rot around the bed mounting bolts. I am going to try and find a replacement bed and replace when they do the frame (which as noted above needs to be fabricated by Toyota)- if anyone knows where I should look for a used bed let me know

 

I got the call on Friday that my frame will be ready in a couple weeks, so my truck is going in on Jan. 28 for the full frame replacement. Anyone have anymore suggestions on what I just get replaced? I'm going to have them rotate the tires for sure, and install some aftermarket fender flares that I purchased. A buddy of mine suggested I get the oil pan gasket and oil pump replaced. Any other suggestions? I am thinking spark plugs, perhaps struts and shocks, ball joints and tie rods.

 

I am buying spark plugs, water pump, fuel tank straps, 3" lift (Toytec 3/1). The dealer said they will install whatever parts i supply (during reassembly). Let us know what the dealer finds broken on yours when you bring it in.

I was told the new frame comes with all new brake/fuel lines and the front control arms

 

Sounds like a hell of a good price for the truck. Good luck with new frame. Keep us posted. Peace. D

 

I took my 08 in last week to have the frame checked and due to buying all my Toyota parts through them for my auto body business there pretty nice to me. The service manager actually called me after they inspected the frame and said it was actually one if the cleaner ones they’ve had in he offered to due the spray with fluid film so begging in Pa. I figured why not ! So they hooked me up hooked me up ! Got it back on tues. it’s all good

 

How's your rear axle look? Heard of some rusted so thin the rear end was leaking & the plugs were rusted solid.

 

On my 2000 about 3 years after the frame was replaced my rear axle rusted. It was just the plate on the back where the fill hole is. It's just thin sheet metal. I ended up cutting it off, cleaning everything else up, and welding on a new cover I made. There was a company that made a replacement cover but it wasn't that cheap.

If I had known I would of stripped the rust off and prime/ paint it long before it rusted through. It wouldn't be a hard job once the spare tire is out of the way. Also since the inside has oil in it the only rust is on the outside vs something like the the bottom of a door or a pinch weld.

 

@craigerman, when was your inspection date? Mine went in Nov 26th and I haven’t heard back yet so I’m curious.

I’m doing 4 shocks/struts, spark plugs, and exhaust, for sure. Probably, water pump, alternator, fuel straps, and a door check. My truck has 243k on it. At inspection I was told my ballpoints CV boots and bushings had a lot more life in them.

I had requested a recommended repair list to get to 350k. Dealer said 2 struts, and exhaust would do it.

 

My truck was not bad I guess it has 80k miles they just did the spray .But I'm sure your truck will feel new all over again everything nice amd tight .Man throw the 6" lift at them I would make them work lol

 

Mine went in for inspection on Nov. 23, but it passed inspection then. They didn't find the hole and order the new frame until I brought it back to have the sealant put on Dec. 17. At the time they told me the new frame could be in anywhere from 1-5 months, so I was extremely surprised to get the call last week that it would be ready at the end of this month. If I were you I'd give the dealership a call and see if they have an update.

The exhaust system on my truck appears nearly new, so I'm going to leave that alone. I'll get the shocks and struts done, tire rotation, tie rod ends, and the spark plugs for sure. Probably oil pan gasket and water pump as well. I am going to test my alternator this weekend to make sure that is working as it should, but I'm leery. I replaced the starter a few weeks ago (what a crappy job that was), and ever since I've had a couple instances of the ignition not engaging the new starter fully at start-up. Simply turned the key off and turned again and it started right up, but still was concerning. From the research I did, most said that it may be low battery power, if not a bad starter. Well, I sure as heck am hoping it wasn't a bad starter that I put in, so I threw the battery on the charger once, and it was at 75%, so I charged it back up to 100%. Did it again about two weeks later, and it read out at 55%. Fortunately I haven't had any more issues with the starter not engaging, but I'm starting to think that either my alternator isn't working up to par, or my battery is going bad.

As an aside on replacing the starter - I had my brother, who is a mechanic, helping me out, and it took us about 3 hours total. Way better than spending the $1,200 the dealership quoted me, but it was still a frustrating job. Found some cheat videos on how to do it without removing the manifold, but it was still really tight, and you are taking bolts out and disconnecting/reconnecting electrical connectors by feel. Not fun.

 

So I had my second frame inspection since buying my Tundra in August of 2017
Kinda feel like lm getting jerked around
I told them not to spray it but they had already decided against spraying but no replacement yet WTF
Was told to bring it back in May for another inspection

 

Yeah, you are definitely getting jerked around. But I think it's by Toyota corporate and not your dealership. The dealership needs to submit inspection results (evidence) to Toyota, and they make the ultimate determination on whether the frame replacement is warranted. The tech told me that they won't replace a frame with surface rust, but if they find one tiny pinhole, that is an automatic replacement. Toyota's philosophy changed from the first frame recalls on the 2000-04 models to these ones. They are much more conservative on who gets frame replacements now, apparently.

 

Sooo, my understanding is that you only get 1 or the other. If you have it sprayed you cannot get the inspection and frame replacement. It seems the dealer is trying to get you a complete frame. They should have told you when that warranty date expires based on your vin. Take it in as close to the final date as possible. Don’t hold me to it but it’s like 12 yrs from the date the dealer received it. My 07 was early and expired January 19th, 2019. Yours must be a later model, that presumably expires in May/June. Call another dealer with the VIN to see when it expires. They can tell you over the phone.

 

Yes that’s the reason I told them not to spray it
I think you’re right about the dates but I don’t see how they can say too bad to spray but not bad enough to replace anyway I’ll see what happens in May
I really want a new frame to build on

 

It's my understanding based on the 1st gen replacements that there has to be an actual hole in the frame 10mm or larger, just flakes of rust aren't enough. Maybe start whacking it with a hammer every so often.

 

Yeah, what he said.... And the weaklings are the cross braces that the bedframe mounts to. That’s where you may see a perforation that needs to get larger. My dealer showed me the underside of the truck on the lift and circled the perforations. They have to document them and send them to corporate for approval.

 

What happened if rear shocks are installed but the top nut is not torqued and possibly over tighten?

 

last time I was at my Toyota dealership, semi showed up full of new frames ..and that is in Southern California...