suspension and reverse issue... ideas help and advise

I have an 04 Tundra 4dr limited v8 with apx 220,000miles. I will say this ahead of time I’m no car guru and know very little minus the basics so please go easy on me.
Iv had my truck since 04 and never had any issues till this last month. 2wks ago we replaced all the breaks rotors/pads/drums/shoes no big deal as it’s routine maintenance well a few days ago I noticed a loud clank/clunk coming from the front end. I know the shocks/struts need to be replaced and I’m told by several people that’s whats the noise is. Had someone check the ball joints and those parts and was told they were in good shape. With that being said the folks iv talked to said in order to replace the front shocks/struts you need a spring compressor; however from the videos I have watched no one has needed one. So can u do the front and rear with out them? Second major issues is sort of a reverseing issue. The same day I noticed the clunking I went to reverse out of my driveway the tires rolled a little ways back then grind clunk and the truck stopped moving backward. Put in park check the parking brake took out of park rolled forward put back in reverse and same thing happened I was able to pull out the drive way but the reverse issue persists. It feels like the brakes are locking up and not allowing the tires to roll I’m really hoping the reverse is not a transmission issue.. Ideas ?? Thank you in advance.

 

Hey Kelly, since the brakes were just done I'd look for issues there first as being the most likely cause of all your problems. If you've never replaced your shocks it's time. At 220k I'd do the ball joints too just to be safe.
Definitely no spring compressor required to replace rear shocks.
Sometimes you can buy new front coil overs with springs, pre-assembled. Or you can have a shop install the old coil springs on new shocks. Again at 220k I'd probably lean toward replacing the entire assembly.
Best of all, at 220k you've still got a lot of miles left in that truck.

 

I don’t know squat about trucks! I drive a delorean. Not sure why I even joined a tundra forum thats weird LOL





Hopefully these mofos can help you out

Welcome as well ma’am

 

I thought you also drove/drive a pre-taco???

 

Ummm not sure what your talking about

 

Nice driving!! I can only imagine what you can do in a Tundra.

 

What’s a tundra LOL I live in the 80s

 

Pull brakes and check over. Could be hanging shoes in the rear or a retaining clip or pin let go up front.

Troubleshooting 101: what changed?

Check that first then look at trans etc.

 

These are what I’m looking at getting. Rather just replace the whole thing to be in the safe side. Still need the compressor for these? I hope I still have more miles left on her. Love this truck.

 

That’s the first part of the plan this weekend.

 

Again my apologies but exactly where is this pan?

 

And I forgot to mention thought I had an oil leak but was told it looks like it’s coming from the transfer case?? Or what ever is under the heat shield in the front.

 

Yep that would be the way my luck goes.... well if it would not for my dad who’s going to be doing the bulk of this work. (I hope)

 

Nope, those are pre-assembled so you don't need a spring compressor.

 

Any hesitation moving forward or reverse when you first start to leave in the morning? Does it happen when it's cold? For what it's worth, this was my experience...

I had an issue with my Taco rear axle seal and the diff oil leaked which caused the rotor to stick. A clunking noise was heard and a jerk when switching gears from park to drive or park to reverse. I thought it was the new suspensions or a newly introduced part, worst yet, the transmission. I finally took it to the stealership and they confirmed that it was a the rear axle seal. I hope this helps.

 

No issues with forward movement only in reverse. I haven’t parked in the driveway the last couple days parking on the street and only in parking spots I can pull into and drive out of. And I live in Florida so..... the cold question is valid in my case. Not to mention it has happened in the middle of the day when it’s almost 80. I’m not 100% sure of clunking noise or the jerk when shifting into reverse but nothing when going into drive (nothing abnormal) I will check under the truck again tomorrow and see if there is anything else that looks off.

 

Yes that’s the plan to take the tires back off and check the brakes. Cause honest to god that’s what it feels like to me. And since it’s going to be up going to check the heat shield for the extra rattle change the oil and check everything else. Fingers crossed

 

I’ve heard those aren’t the best replacements. Think about oem or upgrading. I remember someone saying they didn’t last long. Worth paying a little more.

 

Ugh they are already 200$ lol what would be a good recommendation that won’t totally leave me broke?

 

That almost sounds like a differential cross pin failure or spider gear failure, but you wouldn't be able to still drive it if that were the problem. That type of failure is pretty much catastrophic when it happens.

 

And I’m sorry it’s not those specific ones I was looking at. It was the 171347 which are the next ones up.

 

These are the ones I’m looking at.

 

If you want to keep it stock those will work but doubt you will get as much life as the oem Toyoya shocks gave it. The clunking you heard may be the shock bushing so it does sound like its time.

 

For what it's worth, I put these on my truck and now regret it. How long are you wanting to keep this truck? If you plan on keeping it a while I would not put Monroe's on it. Let us know and we can try to steer you another direction.

They are the cheapest and easiest replacement but I'm learning there is a reason for that.

 

You won't need a spring compressor for these, but as mentioned, Monroe is not a suitable replacement for these trucks. They will work and fit, but they're a very low grade replacement.

Thank you good sir!

^^^

What I would recommend will require a spring compressor to swap the coil spring from the old assembly over to the new one.

What would be the best OE replacement is as follows:
(I selected SR5 and 4wd, but it's the same parts for base, limited, sr5, rwd, 4wd...)
Qty 2 of each:



The Bilstein 4600 are a true OE replacement, and top notch quality which will provide years and years worth of reliable miles.
The main differences between the Bilstein's and the Monroe are Bilstein are built for one specific vehicle, they're valved for your Tundra and a monotube design. The Monroe are not valved for you Tundra but instead valved for a truck so they won't ride as smoothly. They're also a twin tube design so while they will be smooth on flat ground they won't control bounce as efficiently so every bump and crack in the road is more noticeable.

The KYB front strut mounting kit will only be needed if the rubber atop your existing struts (technically coilovers) are cracked or worn out. Not a bad piece to replace after 200k.

Again, these will require the use of a spring compressor to swap the coil springs from the old assembly to the new, but that extra work will yield you a significantly better ride quality over the Monroe.

Unfortunately there aren't many options for pre-assembled, most will all require the springs to be swapped over.

Hopefully this helps make your decision easier! And I will happily provide you better pricing than what's shown online if you shoot me a PM

(I also have lesser expensive options, so if the price is too high we can look into some alternatives as well)
https://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/10A50469.aspx

- Mike

 

I think you were who I was thinking of that regretted the Monroe decision.