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Need help leveling my first gen

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by FirstGenVol, Dec 20, 2018.

  1. Dec 20, 2018 at 6:16 AM
    #1
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    I read all 90 pages of the "what have you done to your first gen" thread. And while many people said they leveled their Tundra, they didn't always specify what they used.

    Earlier this year I replaced my rear shocks with the OEM Bilstein 4600's. In the front I used the Monroe Quick struts purely for cost and ease of install. I now regret that. My front end is a full 3 inches lower than the rear and the Monroe's leave a lot to be desired.

    My question is, can I leave the rear alone and just do something the raise the front? I have no complaints on the 4600's. I know some people used the 5100's but @Professional Hand Model mentioned they don't do well offroad.

    I did find this leveling kit I wanted to ask about but I'm open to other suggestions.

    https://www.tirerack.com/suspension...del=Tundra+SR5+4wd&autoYear=2002&autoModClar=
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2018
  2. Dec 20, 2018 at 6:54 AM
    #2
    mtntop

    mtntop New Member

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    Hi, your post tells us your front end is 3 inches higher than the back, did you mean the rear end of your truck is 3 inches higher than the front?
     
  3. Dec 20, 2018 at 7:10 AM
    #3
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Hopefully you saved your old springs because the Monroe springs won't fit 5100's. Found that out the hard way.

    If I were to do it again I'd get a whole kit from @Toytec Lifts and be done. In the end its higher than I wanted with 5100's, OME 885 coils, SPC arms, and Icon 1.5 add a leafs.
     
    OR18TRD and NewImprovedRon like this.
  4. Dec 20, 2018 at 7:24 AM
    #4
    Casper421

    Casper421 Toyota RidgeTrac driver!

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    What’s your budget and intended use for the lift? Looks or off-road performance?
     
  5. Dec 20, 2018 at 7:45 AM
    #5
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    Yes sorry. My front end is 3" LOWER than the rear. I've got that ass up, nose down look.
     
  6. Dec 20, 2018 at 7:49 AM
    #6
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    I unfortunately did not save those old springs...

    Mainly looks but I would eventually like to do some minor league overlanding. I'd like to do more camping. Budget wise I'm not sure yet but probably not willing to do the $1,500 Fox option I've seen. If there are cheaper options I'd like to know about them. Thanks for asking.
     
  7. Dec 20, 2018 at 8:00 AM
    #7
    Casper421

    Casper421 Toyota RidgeTrac driver!

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    Here are some front options:
    https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/produ...ront-lifts-and-coilovers-00-06-toyota-tundra/
     
  8. Dec 20, 2018 at 9:00 AM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Bummer bud. Those TRD springs are pricey if you need to buy them again. Never knew the TuRD spring were higher/taller than the others Toy springs until the other day. Maybe thats the disparity problem that you have now with a Monroe Spring (its shorter?).

    BTW, I had Monroe shocks for about 70k miles on all fours. They were spongy Cadillac style. Really nursed my turns and driving style towards their end of usefull life.

    The Billys 5100’s are the best option unless you want to fork out $$$ for another brand. Seems the theme of the shock threads for our 1st Gens are either basic or extreme $$$.

    Another thing you may want to keep some forward rake. If you plan on hauling loads the rear end will dip too low if you level it with no weight. Forward rake is good to have for safety and stability hauling/towing.

    Lets us know what you decide as it will be a lot of parsing.
     
  9. Dec 20, 2018 at 9:02 AM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  10. Dec 20, 2018 at 9:49 AM
    #10
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    Those ICON's would be sweet. $1,200 is a lot of money. I wonder if I'd have to replace the UCA's as well. When I bought the Monroe's earlier this year I attempted the replace them myself but couldn't get the bottom bolt out. No matter how I tried to manipulate the LCA I couldn't figure it out. I may attempt it again and get a friend to help to try and save on the labor.
     
  11. Dec 20, 2018 at 9:56 AM
    #11
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    It's a bitch to get out. Putting the factory jack on the upper control arm helps. I found my upper arms were binding and wouldn't move easily.

    I'd go with the OME or Toytec/Eichbac combo since you need springs. It shouldn't raise it enough to need new control arms.
     
  12. Dec 20, 2018 at 9:59 AM
    #12
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    Prior to doing it I watched several Youtube videos that made it look so easy. Looking back I think they must have been 2WD versions because my bolt wouldn't clear the front CV. I was even trying to use the jack to move it up and down with no luck.
     
  13. Dec 20, 2018 at 10:21 AM
    #13
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Everything looks easy on youtubes! Just snap your fingers and its done! Hhahaha.

    This is why I paid a shop to do my front end. Its always something making things difficult. In my case, the cam bolts were all seized up when a year prior I wanted a shop to do just new shocks, but they couldn’t because of seized bolts. Told them to put it back together and forget about it until I could do it right OR sell/trade the truck.

    Had to wait a year, but no way I wanted any part of all that suspension work. Would took me 6 solid days what took them 2!
     
  14. Dec 20, 2018 at 10:46 AM
    #14
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    FWIF, if you ever have another rusted/stuck bolt buy some Kroil. The bottom bolts on my rear shocks were stuck and I let some Kroil soak on them for a few days. They came right off. I had tried some penetration oil prior to that and it didn't work. Kroil is good stuff.
     
  15. Dec 20, 2018 at 10:55 AM
    #15
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    They'll clear but only just barely, you have to manipulate the boot to get it just right. I put the bolts back in the opposite direction and the next time it was simple.
     
  16. Dec 20, 2018 at 8:25 PM
    #16
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    I would consider OME. Much cheaper than any coilover set up, gives the lift you want and rides well. No fussing with upper arms either.

    Stay far away from the $1500 fox kit, if anybody recommends that just punch them in the mouth and say that's from Darkness.
    :rofl:the fox for these trucks are an unbelievably bad design.

    Here is OME, look for @Toytec Lifts and maybe get a discount.
     
  17. Dec 20, 2018 at 10:08 PM
    #17
    Casper421

    Casper421 Toyota RidgeTrac driver!

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    I’ve been waiting 3.5 weeks for my ICON’s to ship. I’m getting impatient.
     
  18. Dec 21, 2018 at 8:20 AM
    #18
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    Just to clarify, you said it was much cheaper than any coilover set up. Are you saying it's cheaper than the alternatives?

    What do you think about this? I spoke to a guy on instagram that is running these with 285/60/18's. @Professional Hand Model @Casper421 @Festerw thoughts? I realize this wouldn't remove the Monroe's but it would at least bring the nose up.

    https://www.procompusa.com/suspension-product-details.aspx?pt=9333&pl=7142
     
  19. Dec 21, 2018 at 9:07 AM
    #19
    Casper421

    Casper421 Toyota RidgeTrac driver!

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    It depends on how much you’re willing to spend. There’s a saying that I truly believe in now that I’ve experienced first hand: “buy once, cry once.” You’ll want better than what you have. Do it right the first time. Put some spacers on and soon you’ll want to upgrade to 5100’s, then to a full coilovers system. I’ve lived this with numerous coilovers/shock set ups on my last 4runner. You’ll end up spending more money than just buying the expensive components the first time around.

    I personally would stay far away from spacers. If you wheel frequently and anything harder than fireroads, I would recommend at least OME. I had 5100’s and OME885’s at one point on the t4r and that setup was rough. Swapped those out for ICON 2.0’s and it was a much better ride. Toytec Boss co’s are a great “budget” coilover. If you plan to wheel hard or add a ton of weight(armor) then I would recommend a 2.5” coilover like ICON, King or SAW. As @Darkness mentioned, stay away from Fox just like spacers.
     
  20. Dec 21, 2018 at 10:50 AM
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    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    This is what I’ve learned about our 1st Gens suspension all boiled down into 2 paragraphs. Get 5100’s for towing/hauling/street driving. Go big$$$ if you want off road $$$.
     
  21. Dec 21, 2018 at 12:34 PM
    #21
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    Thanks for the advice guys. I think you're right. I need to suck it up and get those OME's or similar.
     
  22. Dec 21, 2018 at 4:57 PM
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    Darkness

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    Yeah, search around for a reasonable option. I would hate for you to spend north of $1k for off road style coilovers that you'll rarely see benefit from. There are cheaper alternatives that will do what you need in the 500-700 range. Spacers are not a direction I would go.
     
    FirstGenVol[OP] likes this.
  23. Apr 9, 2019 at 10:59 PM
    #23
    ahenning33

    ahenning33 New Member

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    Just as a prerequisite to this post, my 03 AC 4x4 has the original Bilsteins that it came off the lot with and I am extremely green when it comes to lift/leveling kits.
    That being said, I want to level it and I've done some looking around and have read through this thread. I have noticed a few people mention 5100s, but with the 4x4 AC I have they recommend going no higher than position 3 which would only give me 1.05" of lift up front, about 1.50" less than being truly leveled. I like getting off on forest roads, but nothing too crazy and it's also my daily. My co-worker has an OME kit on his 04 Tacoma and swears by it. Just curious what you all would recommend for my given situation. I would want to run 33s and I want to stay away from spacers. Also, would I need to drop my differential for 3" or smaller of a lift?
    I found this OME kit for what I felt to be a competitive price and was wondering what everybody thought.
    https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyota-tundra/ome-2-5-lift-kit-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/

    Thank You
     

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