Fox HARD rebound...?

Yes, you will need to tune your shocks. This is the awesome thing about you dumping the money on a quality shock.

@jberry813 could possibly give you some damn good advice on what shims to start out with for your shocks.

 

Damn that is cheap. I assume that is taking the shock into them off the vehicle.

We have a guy in CO that will tune your shocks, test and make ones vehicle ride like clouds...but it is a hell of a lot more.

I would discuss in detail what you are experiencing, what you would like, and find out what you start with on your shims and log it. I would also log what it was changed to. This way you can see and track what you like....and do not like. I did this when riding MX tracks with my suspension and it worked like a champ. I would even have different settings for various tracks and conditions.

 

Oh and @jberry813 will probably chime in soon. He has a lot of hours with kings and fox. Most likely has a log of what he likes for different terrain.

 

Which part sucks? The front or the rear?
What spring rate do you have up front?
What leaf pack in the rear?
Any AAL, blocks, or shackles?
Do you know what valving is in there now?

The slamming sound up front is most likely due to the shock bottoming out. Slowing down the rebound to prevent a bottom out isn't the smartest choice because rebound valving is used to control how fast/slow you want the shock to move. Slow it down so much that you don't bottom out and the coilover will end up packing in wash and whoops (or any consecutive uneven terrain). Meaning you'll hate life even more.

Quite frankly, just based on the description, you have too much preload and a lot of what you are describing can be alleviated by just removing some of it. Don't remove anything out of the rear leaf pack, just lower the front ride height. Too many people are obsessive about ride height rather than coilover performance. The more preload you have, the more stored energy. I let my truck decide what the ride height is going to be based on how it performs. Trying to tune a shock the other way around is a pain in the ass.

And yes, if you put in limit straps you'll prevent the loud clapping sound as long as you strap it a cunt hair shy of bottom out.


Edit: Anywhere I said "bottom out" I meant "top out."
Survey says...don't "Forum" and "Work" at the same time.

 

We're on the same page. Top out..bottom out...yeah I'm trying to multitask and said it backasswards. Referring to the shaft spacer in between the piston and seal cap is slamming the seal cap on the bottom of the shock body at full droop.

Longer springs with the same rate doesn't change anything except leave you with a thinner wallet and where the spring sits on the shock body. 650 lbs is 650 lbs. Spring length doesn't play any role in preload unless the gap between the coils is smaller than the shock travel length. You'll still have the same amount of preload (the same number of turns on the collar to get the same ride height) and the same amount of stored energy. You literally change nothing in terms of felt performance with a longer spring. Again...i still suggest you remove some preload and go for a whirl. It's free and easy. Drop the front ot 2.5" of lift and go for a test drive.

I don't build my trucks for aesthetics. I build them to perform, so I can't help you with your feelings about having a level truck vs rake.

Yes you can adjust on the truck if you are clever. Make sure you jack up the front of the truck so there's no weight on further compressing the spring. Also easier when you remove the tires. Lube the threads and go to town.

 

Depends on which leaf you pull. Since you're still spring over, any leaf removed will bring the ride height down. The longer the leaf that you remove, the lower the ride height and lower the spring rate. If anything start with the smallest leaf.

 

Told you he would give you an earful. Lol.

Wait until you have a dual rate coil over shock. buahhaaahhaaa..

See people cranking down on CO preload adjusters a lot in the Offroad community. With my perticular King shocks, 0-1" preload is required up front and the rear is 1-3". If I can't get the ride height ( or up travel/down travel) new springs are needed. Lucky for me I have only needed to swap the rears to the front and buy 4 new rear springs.

Good luck with your shocks. Trust me when I say a well tuned CO is totally worth it. A poorly tuned shock will really piss you off (I believe you have found the latter)

One more thing, have you ever considered tuning the shocks yourself? One of my buddies came over the other day with a blown King 2.0 14" shock. He was amazed at how cheap a seal kit was. All we needed after that is shock oil and some N2. I was amazed at how much he was going to spend shipping the shock there and back, rebuild, and then the long wait for its return. He also got to see why limit straps are a good thing and what holds the shock together after the dust cover is taken down.

If you are going to spend 2-400.00 on shock tuning, you're well on the way to get the needed tools. Most expensive parts are N2 bottle (you can rent, but after two years the renting no longer makes sense), N2 fill kit hoses, and micrometer. The other tools you most likely have.

 

This!!!! Sooooooooo much this. The nitro setup is cheaper than people thing if you shop around.

20 CF tank filled with N2 shipped to your door for $117:
http://store.cyberweld.com/shielgascyl22.html

Regulator with NAL chuck for $190:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-re...:g:Wy4AAOSw~oFXLQC6&item=151761463371&vxp=mtr

Micrometer available on Amazon or HF:

$28 NEIKO 01407A Electronic Digital Caliper Measuring Tool, 0 - 6"es Stainless Steel Construction with Large LCD Screen Quick Change Button for Inch Fraction Millimeter Conversions, Digital Caliper Measuring Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-01407...TF8&qid=1470342261&sr=8-1&keywords=micrometer

 

Oil is about $35 a gallon. One gallon will rebuild four 8" stroke shocks with resis (or two 16" stroke shocks with resis).
Revalving can be done without new seals and oil...as long as you don't spill any oil.
The link for the tank I sent you has the option to be filled with N2 for $36 bucks. Most local places will swap a 20 CF for $40 or less. That tiny 20 CF will last you A LOT of rebuilds/revalves. My first tank lasted me almost 4 years with hundreds of shock recharges.
Rebuilds are not just an artifact of blown seals. Blown seals are basically worst case scenario. Shocks have oil...just like engines. You don't replace the oil on an engine only when you blow it. 2 cents.

 

What Jason said^^^

The buddy I was talking about earlier....This was his first issue in 6 years of hard off-roading. Not too bad in my opinion.