Bought first Tundra 05 DC 4wd with 84k miles

I’ve been searching for over a month and couldn’t quite find the truck i wanted.

I finally found one on FB with 84,000 miles. Limited, Leather (great shape), 4x4 with of course the legendary 4.7.

It has a rebuilt title which didn’t scare me off i just new the risks going in. Turns out it has been in storage for nearly 10 years on and off and it has virtually zero rust and everything structurally looks untouched. The accident happened 10 years ago and truck was rolled. Anyways, other than a couple quirky electrical things, it’s an awesome truck. Someone previously added a touch screen pioneer head unit, amplifier, and a sub. I believe the electrical issues have to do with that rather than the accident. Drives silky smooth with great power.

Our power is out now and LTE is down so loading pics can’t happen yet. Just thought I’d post. I will likely follow up with the electrical issues and questions / solutions.
Thanks!

 

I did notice a couple fuses missing. #8 H-LP LH and #9 H-LP RH

There may be others. Will explore this tomorrow.

 

Sounds like you found a nice truck! Welcome

 

Welcome and good luck with those electrical issues. Can’t wait to see some pics!!

 

How are the gaskets and seals? Any leaks? I have a SHO that sat 10 years and almost every seal is bad.

 

Welcome from CO. You just might have scored.....!

 

This^^^^

 

Honestly not sure! I’m going to check this out for sure

 

2 big places are around the back of the heads and around the oil pain. Wouldn't hurt to look around the crank pulley to check the front main. I'd give the steering rack a once over too. I'm not sure where to look but I'd bet around the front of the bellhousing/back of the block for the rear main.

 

Found my check engine code to be P0420. I’ve done a bit of research and don’t see a sure fire solution. Any reccomedations for troubleshooting would be appreciated! South Carolina has no vehicle inspection so no issues on that front. The check engine will just drive me nuts!

EDIT: there is a K&N air filter present which I’ve heard can throw P0420 code.

 

In other news, two of my electrical gremlins magically fixed themselves.

First was the power door locks didn’t work. I could hear a motor attempting to actuate but they wouldnt work. The drivers window and door controls also didn’t work. ALL OF THAT STARTED WORKING in the middle of the day Yesterday.

Second, 4WD was engaging sheepishly and the indicator lights on the dash and control buttons wouldn’t come on. That STARTED WORKING too!

It’s like the truck is gradually waking up from years of slumber.

I’ve spotted zero fluid leaks at this point. Everything around the head and front crank looks very clean. I need to crawl under the truck and look around at the rear main seal area.

 

If the truck was rolled and the insurance company wrote it off, there was structure damage !

 

Yes. I should be clear. There certainly was damage to the “structure” I’m sure the Pilars were crushed along with who knows what else.

I was mainly referring to the frame.

However, there are many many vehicles in salvage yards with zero frame damage. I lost a bid on a salvage title tundra double cab limited that only needed a hood and two front fenders and a new radiator. Frame was in perfect shape. I’ve looked at many throughout the years.

 

I’m glad you know what you got . I was a vehicle inspector in Michigan when I was working did it as a side job. I would issue salvage titles two individuals who would buy the total vehicles restore them and sell them as salvage vehicles. Me personally I wouldn’t touch them. There’s no way a body shop can bring a vehicle up from the dead it’s all hidden.

 

Check your MAF sensor. The K&N may have been over oiled and fouled the sensor. I use K&N's with no issues but over oiling is definitely not a good thing.

 

That’s cool about your previous experience. I completely understand your view point.

 

I will definitely check this out. I figured a good MAF cleaning and throttlebody cleaning might help the code go away

 

^^^^
To my wife’s dismay, I’ve had this mantra over the years, “Leave it alone and it’ll fix itself.”


Congrats, sounds like you found a gem!

 

LOL

 

You reconnect that ground wire yet?

 

Welcome in from deep down here in Dixie.

The Check Engine light has been on in my 1997 T-100 for 5 years. The section of exhaust pipe just behind the CAT, including the muffler, fell off (rusted out). Who the hell cares. Now it sounds like a real truck and it just keeps rocking on. And there's no need for anyone to mention a possible lean condition. Don't care. I'm headed to 300,000 miles. Every additional day and mile out of it is a reason to celebrate. Funny. But I think I just may see the magical half million miles. With half of them done with the Check Engine light on!!!

 

Got it reconnected yesterday. Didn’t notice any difference but i know it needed to be done.

 

Haha! T100’s are awesome.

 

I got a couple more fun codes today.

C1241 - Low battery positive voltage or abnormally high positive voltage.

- I’ve had the battery, starter, and alternator checked at Oriellys and verified myself with a multimeter. While running the battery was at about 14.2v I’m thinking that there might be loose or corroded wiring to one of the Fuse boxes. The Dash Volt meter is showing low voltage as well. The dash gauge appears to be readying around 12v. Needle is one “tick” below normal.

C205 and C215 - Left front and Left Rear Wheel Speed sensor malfunction.

And P0420

Anyone have any experience with these codes?

 

I started checking some of my fuses in the engine compartment and found that the #3 DEF/IUP and #7 STA Fuses are getting ZERO voltage. These both contribute to multi port fuel injection

Fuses are good but there is no incoming voltage. I’m planning on pulling the FUse box and investigating further.