What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Did my best to clean out the rust in the bushings area of my arms. Got just about all out but there is some pitting. Cleaned that out with brake cleaner and gave it a coat of oil for good measure. Cleaned the cups for my balls in a similar fashion, no rust there.

Got the balls in, they went in easy.


Little bit of the grease I used came out the other side, carefully cleaned that with a piece of plastic to avoid getting grease on my balls.


Didn't get a pic of the snap rings but those went in easy too. I got out the latex gloves and put some lube in the bushes, slid them in place and sleeves followed.


Nothing says Christmas is coming like some freshly done UCAs and some Autumn leaves.

 

Those the camburg ucas?

 

Yeah, after 7 years they needed some refreshing.

 

Good as new again! Now with added zerks. Thats a good idea I’ll keep in the bag and I’ve wondered how to grease these sway link bushings in the future.

 

I have been on an LED kick, I replaced the fog lights, interior lights, license plate lights, and turn signals. Having the hyperflash now, going to have to get the resistors in to fix that i suppose.

 

Do it the easier way and get an LED flasher. It's just plug and play.

 

What is this holy device of whence you speak? And where do I get it?

Thanks in advance!

 

Any auto parts store.

 

No delay blinker from this device? Seems like the research I’ve done there is always a problem: 1) fitting the relay 2) adjusting relay 3) still other problems (hyper flash gone, but slow ticks constant need of adjustment).

Anyone have an exact part number on a relay that has zero problems and can handle to entire electrical? One you can vouch used on your truck?

 

I wish I remembered which one I used on my 03 taco. Likely the same one as our Tundras. Never had an issue with it. Just set it and forget it. Bought it from advance auto

 

https://www.diodedynamics.com/by-vehicle.html/

They sell what you need.

 

Thanks. I’ll wait for someone with the exact part # for an 02’ before committing to hyper blinks.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-led-flasher-relay-ep-35.382533/
For your reading pleasure

Found this too
https://www.superbrightleds.com/veh...sher?make=77&model=1675&scc_id=1454&year=2002

 

Thanks for the link. Checked it out and like the made in America. Plug and play they say. That means no hyper blinks? You have these in your truck?

 

Just a note that I want to do LED bulbs just in the interior cab. Not on the exterior signals/lights.

Historical note: I replaced the (2) reverse bulbs when one burned out on the third light (upper cab) along with the brake bulb (hey lets do it since its open) years ago. Got the hyper flash. Took out the brake bulb and re-installed original and hyper went away. BUT, my FOB doesn’t work at distance anymore. It needs to be right at the window to work. Think there is LED interference? I’ve lived with it, but it is annoying having a FOB and its needing to be placed at the window to work.

 

That's a hell of a grimlin. I have LEDs in every interior spot and in reverse and 3rd break and bed lights. No issues. No resistors or led relay.

 

Not yet, my brother ran their full kit on his Subaru without issue. Once I get the "need to have" out of the way I'm planning to run their stuff.

 

Maybe I need to start over with the reverse lights. They are Phillips LED and maybe a new(er) bulbs will allow FOB to work from distance. I’ll work through this problem first before doing any interior panel bulbs and report back.

 

LED on your interior won't need any flasher. Should work fine, I have cheap ones on my dome/maps.

The fobs must have a link with the lighting circuit. Since I did my headlight retrofit, the part nobody talks about is having the passenger stock bulb socket empty. Because of that my front lights don't flash when I click my fob, just the tails and the beep.

 

Just replaced my front headlights with Hikari led lights from Amazon . Its a huge difference from the old halogen ones; however, they're a bit too high on the road. Anyone know how to lower the headlights?

 

@potoghi look around near the too of the headlight housing, there is a hole that a screwdriver can fit in. Look in with a flashlight and you'll see a little plastic gear in that hole. Put the screwdriver in twist, that turns the gear to lift or lower.

 

Which one are you talking about? The corner light or the marker some of the headlights came with?

 

Anybody know what's the biggest spare tire we can carry under the bed?

 

I'm late catching up here. Good stuff!

Can any of you direct me to a pic of the locations each skid plate option should cover? I know it varies from one vendor to another, but thinking maybe one of you with good visual recall will think of a photo you've seen of some built 1st gen with skids, the photo taken from beneath (you know, like we see all the time for Jeeps and 4runners ). I'm looking at grabbing some Skid Row because the sale @Casper421 posted is awesome , but mine already has a decent engine skid. I'm hoping to leave that alone, but that I can get the others to work in behind it. Anyone?

 

Any chance of linking the exact model you bought? Also, how was the install?

Thanks!

 

I know @Darkness and @Rheywood456 have installed the Skid Row engine skid plate. Besides the OR Fab transmission plate that Darkness installed, Skid Row is the only vendor that I have found.

 

What I mean is, mine came with what looks like a decent engine skid. I'm trying to work out whether the other Skid Row plates will fit in without me replacing it. I'm about to spend a bunch on suspension, so I want to postpone most other upgrades but this is a great deal on armour!!

 

Hmm, sounds complicated.

I'm on it, that'll give me something to do this weekend!

 

@Sunnier hey! The newest series of skid Row plates are split. The old version I have goes from the oem bumper (3 bolts used on stock skid) then has 2 bolts that connect to the frame where the rear pivot of the lower arm is, then 2 more bolts on the cross member just behind the drain plug.

The new versions have one plate that goes from bumper to lower arm pivot, 2nd plate goes from lower arm pivot to behind drain plug.

For either version when you add a transmission plate, the trans plate goes on first and shares bolts between the engine/trans. You need a few washers to bridge the thickness gap for the motor plate where the trans plate doesn't share holes.

Sounds confusing but just picture them having overlap where they touch.

 

So anybody for a 33 in their spare tire soot under the bed? How about a 33.5??