What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Might just be the difference ebetween a TRD and a limited

 

Yours has the TRD sticker unless thats an add on aftermarket one.

Had a buddy that did that.

 

Yeah previous owner out it on there. It's in the wrong spot. Mines a limited

 

Where do our limiteds have them?

 

Limited shouldn't have a TRD sticker. Just a limited emblem on the rear doors near the window

 

Ohhh okay thats what i thought. Was a little confuzzled

 

Thats the difference. How many leafs were on your rear springs? The TRD has four. Just trying to analyze the difference in heights.

 

3

 

Yep. There it is. 3 vs. 4.

 

I wonder what the different in the ride is

 

Not sure as I’ve never ridden in a Limited, but its obvious that the sag took over on yours with 3 leafs.

The TRD ride is nice. This new rear sway bar has really planted the rear. Still debating on the finer aspects of the ride. I do have one adjustment I’d like to make to the new sway bar before final opinion.

 

Are you guys counting the overload spring?

 

Which is the shortest one directly on top of the axle? Then, yes.

 

My DC has 3 plus the overload. From @because_v8 build thread I can see 3 oem leaves without the overload which he removed when adding the AAL. I always thought the TRD package had different shocks but the same leaf pack and coils as non TRD.

 

The suspensions looked like it was original with 202k lol

 

No. That would be crazy.

 

I think TRD had 4600s and the others had Monroes

 

Ok. Thanks for clarifications on the leaf counts.

So, made the adjustments to the Hellwig rear sway bar. Lubed the u bushings (required by instructions) which I did not do the first time around. Slightly loosened the link bolts (as I have no torque wrench to gauge tighness per spec).

Results are that sluggy feeling (coming out of turns) is gone due to things being properly lubed and bolts loosened a bit. The rear is still planted nicely and the spring coming out of turns is back (that was lost because I didn’t do it right the first time). In general things feel back to normal except the cornering is far better because the sway bar is doing its job. Very pleased!

Also, aired up the tires due to cold temp loss. Pondering on doing the carrier bearing today... nah. Next week.

 

Alignment after the lift. Do these specs look right?

 

These are fucking bright!

 

Took my upper arms off to replace the wear items. Confirmed that I will need a press to get the balls out, so I installed some military grade uppers in the meantime. (camo ratchet straps)

Noticed some stuff. The little tab on one side is bent to hell, the powder coating is flaking off. Not sure how that happened.


My arms did not come with zerks for some reason. Way back when I realized they were missing while I was installing them. I had stuck some plugs in back then knowing that one day these arms will come off and I can zerk them then. Apparently from not being able to fill them with grease, water got into the channels in the bushings and started rust.



Old bushings and sleeves out. Once I get the old balls out and new balls in I'll get the new bushings in and reinstall.

 

We just used a big fucking hammer to get the balls out.

 

Going to try a bushing press. I think that might do, if not I'll get creative.

 

I've seen those before I think, close encounters of the TRD kind.

 

Double post.

I'm umm... gonna work on my truck when I get home... I guess.

 

A glass of cheap whiskey, an SAE socket and a big fucking hammer did the trick. Good call.

 

I got pulled over by a cop in my 2000. I bought the truck 18 years ago, drove it for a few years , and then my dad took over. My folks live across the street, so I use the Tundra for dog duties with the topper. Well, it turns out, they never registered it in January of 2018 - my mom is religious about paying bills, so I presume she never saw the renewal card.

I drove to the local emission testing facility, and the truck failed :/, badly. HC levels at 1.37 (1.2 allowed), CO at 56 (12 allowed). Also, check engine light, bad oxygen sensor, passenger side, on exhaust manifold.
I bought the sensor, bought the tools to remove it, tried doing it form under the truck - seized solid. I called the Toy doctor, they told me those are notorious for being seized and they would more than likely have to put in a new manifold. I presume $300-400 for manifold and gaskets, and with the labor I imagined a $1000 bill minimum coming my way, so I found a guy on craigslist selling both manifolds for $100 - he removed his at 15k miles to install new manifolds and a TRD Supercharger (super jelly).

So, day after Thanksgiving, my dad and I started "Project Oxygen sensor". First, we tried getting it out one more time, by removing the wheels and the liners and going at it from the side. We torched it, no go. We PB blasted, no go. I tried a metal chisel and a hammer, no go. Only way to proceed was to replace the manifold. So, we took out the 4 bolts holding the heat shield in place, easy. We took of 4 nuts holding the manifold on top, easy. We took of the front and rear bottom bolts, easy. We went after the third nut, and it came out with the bolt from the block. 4th nut was a no-go; no way to access it without removing the engine mount. I read somewhere you only needed to remove the engine mount for drivers side - they were either wrong, or I didn't have the proper tools. Anyway, we decided to jack the engine, remove the 4 bolts holding the engine mount in place, and then we were able to remove the last bolt.

Next, exhaust flange side. 3 bolts, all seized. They laughed at my attempts to use PB Blaster. So I laughed back, pulled out my dremel tool and chopped their heads off . The new manifold had some issues with the bolts on the flange side - I had to rethread them all using my 10x1x25 tool which I thankfully had. Installed the new gasket, new manifold with the new oxygen sensor, some new bolts and nuts, connected everything and we were done just as it got dark.

Next day, we attacked the spark plugs. Paid $20 for a set of ACDelco copper spark plugs - I wanted to spend a lot more on Iridium, but was told that the original spark plugs were copper and I should keep them like that. Get this - my dad never replaced the spark plugs, so they were 18 years old. Tips looked like < and not like [ . Installed 8 new spark plugs, new air filter, cleaned the mass airflow sensor, and dumped a bottle of CRC Guaranteed to Pass in the tank. Ran the car for hours to go through the tank, poured another fresh tank of gas in, and went for my re-test. Passed with flying colors! HC was down to 0.05 from 1.37, and CO was down to 2.5 from 56. Amazing difference!

So, all is well, great success! <insert your favorite Borat GIF here>. Since my dad bought a new, 2018 Tundra TRD Sport, I'll get the old one back, and I want to take care of it better. So, I bought a bluetooth odb2 reader, and guess what? Driver side oxygen sensor is throwing the code as well now! I'll attack it from the side first this time - I'll buy 1/2 drive breaker bar and I'll put a pipe on it to make it long and pray I can unscrew it. If not, another 5 hours or so is in my future - I'm glad I've bought both manifolds as I doubt I'd have a chance to find another one with such low miles on it. New ones are really pricey, around $300 per side.

New Oxygen Sensor is on the way ($45 on Amazon vs $80 in AutoZone for same item). I have a set of vehicle-specific gray Husky liners for the cab on the way to replace the ancient, cheap universal fit ones from 18 years ago. Cab is in great shape (only 132k miles) - it is Platinum Metallic with that light blue-ish/silver-ish interior, I think I'll just shampoo the carpets before I put the new liners. I also ordered new windshield cover so it doesn't get frozen constantly as it is parked outside.

Any good recommendations for a remote starter? Anything easy, plug and play available?
Any good recommendations for a new stereo? Something double-din with bluetooth, and not full of obnoxious lights? Are there any newer Toyota units from newer cars which could fit and have bluetooth capabilities? I'd be OK with a non- double din model as well. I checked Crutchfield and I guess I can get something for $130 or so with a custom wiring harness.
Any good deals on seat covers? Although mine are in perfect shape, I'd prefer something slightly different, like Wet Okole - but they want $500 for a set which is too much.

Have a great day everyone!

 

Can I have just the cliff notes?

 

Sure, I replaced a manifold and and oxygen sensor and spark plugs and passed emissions after failing.