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3rd brake light assembly install

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Tundrick, Oct 4, 2018.

  1. Oct 4, 2018 at 4:29 AM
    #1
    Tundrick

    Tundrick [OP] New Member

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    I'm thinking about replacing the 3rd brake light assembly on my 2000 tundra. Wondering if I need to pull the headliner down to unbolt it from the inside on a first gen. Anyone done this before?
     
  2. Oct 4, 2018 at 6:41 AM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Have never replaced, but have for grins attempted to remove 3rd light from the outside when I was in there doing preventative maintenance caulking for water leaks.

    That assembly housing is in there tight and was only able to slightly pull the unit out. Felt like it would break it I went farther with it. Have heard others here say yes the interior liner needs removing.

    Why are you taking it out?
     
  3. Oct 4, 2018 at 7:02 AM
    #3
    because_wumbo-truck

    because_wumbo-truck TTC#036 & 1st Degenerate

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    LED replacement?
     
  4. Oct 4, 2018 at 7:19 AM
    #4
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    I'm considering replacing mine as well. The halogen bulbs burned holes in mine. Its leaking anyway so I need to replace the seal at minimum but swapping the burned up housing is probably a good idea.
     
  5. Oct 4, 2018 at 7:42 AM
    #5
    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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    Don’t know about the first gens, but the new ones are supposedly a bitch to change out. Headliner does have to come down.
     
  6. Oct 4, 2018 at 8:01 AM
    #6
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    My original assembly has holes in it on the two ‘reverse/cargo’ lights. The holes are up high where th heat from the incandescents rose and melted the plastic in close proximity. I replaced those with led’s and they have very little heat. The middle brake bulb hasn’t burned any hole so that one was left as is.

    The gasket between outer plate cover and assembly body on mine was in ok shape. I caulked it in place and the outside of the outer assembly body (where the leak occurs) was caulked as well.

    Seems like a restoration job is the best vs. tearing out the headliner.
     
  7. Oct 4, 2018 at 10:47 AM
    #7
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Mine is about the same except my gasket is pretty trashed. I'm gonna pull it apart when I get the time and see if there is intrusion from just the gasket or elsewhere. I'm strongly considering pulling the fuse all together but need to survey and correct the damage.
     
  8. Oct 4, 2018 at 10:51 AM
    #8
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    If they do leak, where does it leak? When I go through car washes I get my back rest of the rear seat wet on top of the drivers side.
     
  9. Oct 4, 2018 at 10:54 AM
    #9
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    3-1 level kit with add a leaf. 295/70/18r cooper max. Spider head light tail light and third brake light, tint, badges off, ladder racks, trd pro grill, color matched hood bulge, grab handle,coach builder +2, dv8 front bumper with winch, fender flares, bed cover....
    Most PIA mod I did to my 16 tundra honestly
     
  10. Oct 4, 2018 at 12:00 PM
    #10
    Tundrick

    Tundrick [OP] New Member

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    I'd like to change it out because the incandescent bulbs melted it in there. But if it's going to be a bitch caulk may do with new LEDs.
     
  11. Oct 4, 2018 at 12:08 PM
    #11
    Casper421

    Casper421 Toyota RidgeTrac driver!

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    Changing out the housing is too much of a pain in the ass IMO. As long as the lights still work, just switch out the bulbs with leds and call it a day.
     
  12. Oct 4, 2018 at 12:15 PM
    #12
    1UPPER

    1UPPER Not A New Member

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    TEXAS
    Flux capacitor!
    Any 2007-2019 Tundra will require the headliner be dropped down to remove the third brake light. You can remove the two back a pillars and mid pillar trims and drop the hoodliner on the back area only. You only need to loosen two bolts and un-clip the wire connector. The hard part is all the work to get the hood liner dropped. I believe a 2000 Tundra is bolted from the outside.
     
    rons23 likes this.
  13. Oct 4, 2018 at 12:50 PM
    #13
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    This^, I will also add that it would be worthwhile to buy a 10mm magnetic deep well socket. You'll thank me later:cool:. Good luck:thumbsup:
     
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  14. Oct 4, 2018 at 2:44 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Try this simple diy that will help you hands on understand. Take a phillips head and remove the two screws holding the cover and gasket in place. The cover will come off with a slight pry. This will give you access to the bulbs (2 reverse and one center brake). You will see that the body assembly recesses into the truck headliner (this is where the leak occurs).

    If you want to go farther, then you can slightly pry that assembly out and caulk it. Push the assembly back in and put another bead of caulk along the top. It will make sense once you open it up.

    Do not force the assembly out or it will crack and then you are up the creek!

    Another leak intrusion point are the two rain gutter strips on the top that terminates at the front and rear window gaskets. Clean that up and caulk it. Gently!
     
  15. Oct 5, 2018 at 8:22 AM
    #15
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Did mine just last night and am as happy as a lark!!!!

    Not as bad as they claim it to be...

    Make sure you have small hands (no pun intended), and muscles in your fingers..........
     
  16. Oct 5, 2018 at 8:34 AM
    #16
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Noooooo... Partial Drop---- if can consider a drop.

    Remove the back pillar enough so you can slide the liner by (mine was partially attached.
    Remove the clips located to the side and by the window.
    Use a plastic remover and gently pry down the headliner close to the rear window.
    Slide hand now inside the liner and ceiling and gently pry down on the two clips - - they are almost 6 inches inwards, and more towards the middle.
    Slide 10mm magnetic socket into pocket where the neck of the bolt is and undo. Be careful going back there.
    Once the 10mm are out, the pry out light from bed of truck.

    Use RTV Black Silicone and silicone the contact parts on the replacement light

    I was in noooooooo rush and it took me almost 2 hours to take out... I wanted to make sure nothing breaks etc....56039139960__23F16DBC-729E-4E62-8562-925B40973566.jpg

    took me 15 minutes putting it all back together.

    Would I do it again??? Hell yeah!!!!
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2018
  17. Oct 5, 2018 at 2:02 PM
    #17
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Where is the after pic?
     
    Les7311 likes this.
  18. Oct 5, 2018 at 3:43 PM
    #18
    TundraCoast

    TundraCoast Member In Good Standing

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    Nice write up, I did the same on both my 2007 & 2017 and it is kind of a PITA, the magnetic 10mm deep socket is probably the game changer. I have an LED bulb burned out in my aftermarket 3rd light now (they are replaceable). I have been putting off swapping the bulb since its just a pain.
     
    Les7311[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Oct 5, 2018 at 3:57 PM
    #19
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    3-1 level kit with add a leaf. 295/70/18r cooper max. Spider head light tail light and third brake light, tint, badges off, ladder racks, trd pro grill, color matched hood bulge, grab handle,coach builder +2, dv8 front bumper with winch, fender flares, bed cover....
    I balanced the nut on my pointer finger. Held down the with other hand. And felt for the hole with wih my other fingers and ever so slightly got them on. Only dropped the nut once luckily it was the first one so I took light back it and retrieved it from outside. Painstaking without magnetic socket
     
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  20. Oct 5, 2018 at 4:05 PM
    #20
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    It’s always going to be a PITA.

    Only a few of US will do this mod.....
     
  21. Oct 5, 2018 at 5:44 PM
    #21
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    The 2nd and 3rd gen are different. OP has a first gen.
     
  22. Oct 6, 2018 at 12:47 PM
    #22
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    8F61AF57-6280-4B6A-A9B9-A3296CEAD27A.jpg
    Here you go. Full Spyders in the back!

    E2E2DDA4-D905-4CFE-B09B-F991C04510A5.jpg
     
  23. Oct 6, 2018 at 2:58 PM
    #23
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Nice. Wonder if its the same install technique as 1st gen? I know my assembly housing would not come out like yours did as it was connected from inside. Did not seem like yours, unless I missed something. No sweat because its not worth the effort for me. I just put in led bulbs and caulked the top.

    Good work by the way and thanks for the pics!
     
    Les7311[QUOTED] likes this.

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