What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Would that first option work on an 06?

 

06 should already have 13wl calipers. Pre 04 has smaller calipers, they changed mid 03 to 13WL.

Slotted isn't beneficial on a truck to be honest. I have slotted cryo treated rotors and they don't stop any better, I just wanted them to not get warped. Next time around I'll save cash and go with Brembo blank rotors. No slots and no holes, more surface area for pads to bite on.

Red calipers do look cool though, I really fought the urge to paint mine lol

 

Ok so to get the edge on my friend I need to go 17s for the big brake kit. Got it lol or slotted rottors to match his

 

Yeah it’s aluminum, it’s pretty lightweight I can lift it by myself. It’s an ARE actuality made for a 2nd gen tundra.

 

Your edge is save money and still get the same results. Keep your existing brakes. Maybe paint your existing calipers red and tell your friends how much they cost. Listen to wisdom Grasshopper. Sensai knows the way.

 

Ok more money for suspension lol
I'm thinking of just doing the wheelers progressive aal as I've run it on stock leafs on both my tacos and liked em a lot But part of me wants new leafs. Just not sure what kind or where to find em or if I wanna pay that much.

 

Hahaha take a good look at his calipers. Check the inside near the brake line fitting, if it says 13WL you're equal, if it says SWE13 or something like that then you're ahead.

If it says Brembo or Stop Tech then point behind him and say "LOOK WHATS THAT????" and as soon as he turns his head take his brakes and run.

Cons for the real big brake kit:
High cost
Reduced MPG from greater rotational mass
Needs 17" wheels

 

I just figured it would be worth it once I have armor, winch and bigger tires

 

There you go. Thats the way Grasshopper.

 

I feel that. I have tried a few things on front brakes, my truck came with the smaller calipers. When my stock pads wore out and rotors were warped I tried autozone top of the line ceramic pads and rotors, they lasted a year before wobble happened.

Replaced those with EBC yellow pads, stopped great once warm but squealed relentlessly. Took them off to clean/sand/inspect/grease but it never stopped.

The rotors I went with are Stoptech cryo treated slotted ones, they've been good but I wish they weren't slotted. I really only cared about the cryo part, allegedly doesn't warp and hasn't warped in 4 years.

Currently on Hawk LTS pads, haven't put much miles down yet but they stop well. I went to the bigger 13WL caliper when I put these on so comparisons between these and prior efforts isn't exact, but so far these stop as well as the EBC pads I had.

I think the best pads are Toyota, they dont have an aggressive chamfer on the ends so out of the box you have more surface area. I would have gone Toyota but I was already buying new calipers and brake lines so I had to save cash somewhere.

 

Chances are, he has the Power Stop Z36 kit. Regular 13wl calipers with drilled and slotted rotors. I wanted new brakes after purchasing the truck so I went that route.

 

His aren't drilled, just slotted.

 

Here is one. I think you might have to go up to a 17 inch rim.
https://thmotorsports.com/536170-st...1Zw9k2a6cw-JuIoPMc1R76MEzK2X4Rm8aAsefEALw_wcB

 

Took my lower dash panel out


Wondered what these 3 stray connections are for. My truck has 2 oval dummy switches and one rectangular. Guessing some sort of comfort like heated seating.



Blew a couple fuses trying to wire my back up lights to this switch. Currently the lights come on and go off but the led on the switch is permanently on. Wish I was better with electrical... or at least wish I had enough 15 amp fuses to figure it out.

 

On your switch, you should have line, load, and ground. Line should go to the 12v source, load to the lights, and ground to bare metal.

I'm guessing if the switch led is always on you have the line and load reversed.

 

One of those switches is for the power back window in a double cab I can’t remember the other one, power pedals possibly?

 

I have these same front brakes for the last 25000 miles and they are still working excellent!

 

In my AC limited those are rear glass defrost and rear glass slider switches

 

Yup, this. After blowing 5 fuses I kept thinking there is only one arrangement I haven't tried, and I guessed I was loading the light where I should have loaded the switch.

Swapped 12v and light wires and presto. Now I'll know when I put my other switch in later.

 

I've got the bug so bad. Gonna order more parts in the morning. All I'm thinking about is how much I want to daily drive my truck again. I need to get this front end bs done this month and get on new tires!

 

I got my tires installed...does $248 sound high? I’ll post my short term experience later in the week.

 

For install alone?

 

It was dismount, mount, balance, valve stem replacement and tpms re-learn.

 

Minus the TPMS part, last time I paid about $65 with tax.

 

disassembled my front and rear suspension, cleaned and lubed all of the polyurethane and rubber bushings

 

Seems steep...notice the “non LS product”

 

You paid $56.50 M&B per tire! I just put 4 new tires on my Tacoma. $15 M&B per tire plus $10 for new valve stems. I'm thinking prices vary widely by region..?

 

At schwab? I think it may have been the fact I didn’t buy the tires from them.

 

It was at American Tire Depot and I brought the tires to them. Although I'm in LA and the competition is fierce here.

 

That’s true. Schwab basically owns the market in the northwest. It’s unfortunate because they made a name for themselves with outstanding service and honesty, but since Les died they’ve seemed to steer more towards the capitalist side of business. Now they’re the most expensive and seem to be blood thirsty for the upsale.