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DIY Katzkins with seat warmers

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by Patch999, Sep 19, 2018.

  1. Sep 19, 2018 at 9:19 AM
    #1
    Patch999

    Patch999 [OP] SSEM #17 You are what you do when it counts

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    I didn’t see a write up for this on the site, so here we go.

    This is how I did it. Instructions were not included. Just a simple warranty card that I’m guessing was voided the minute I started. There was a lot of trial, errors, cussing, questioning my abilities and laughing at my occasional stupidity.

    trdlife has a nice write up for adding seat warmers already posted here, so I won’t be going into that as much.

    Tackle this project AT YOUR OWN RISK. I'm only responsible for my screw ups. If you follow this and screw up it's on you.
    My online quotes for the Outlaw Katzkins came back around $1800 installed. This did not include the seat warmers or tax. That was enough motivation for me.

    What is needed?

    First off, some Katzkins. I got mine on Ebay. There have several styles to chose from. Touchups was the seller. I contacted them, and they said they would order them after I bought. Ebay had a 15% off coupon up to $100. Worth the wait.

    So, for $669 shipped, I have the most important part.

    Next up I needed hog rings. Summit Racing had what I needed

    Manufacturer's Part Number:PLIERSET-M $24.14 shipped.

    I wanted to add seat warmers. Best price I found was at Quadratec.

    Rostra Precision Controls Part #: 250-1870 set of 2 $119.98

    Tools needed

    IMG_4836.jpg

    Standard stuff. Torx bits I think the largest used was a T45, square bit for the trim, 3/8 and ½ ratchets, metric sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, trim pullers, adjustable torque drills helped, crimpers for the electrical, cutters for the old hog rings. Needle nose pliers for pulling the bits of hog ring out of the cushions. Razor, magnetic tray, scissors. step bit and gloves.

    LAST BUT NOT LEAST, SAFETY GLASSES for cutting the old rings off. They can go flying and a doctor’s bill and glass eye will throw off your budget.

    First thing I did was the headrests. I heard a few tips. Have two people. Wrap the headrest in plastic and suck all the air out with a vacuum. I did none of that.

    I went with the squish and push method. I did not remove the cloth. For the larger front rests, I channeled my inner thighmaster and squished it between my legs to get it started. Pretty simple from there.

    IMG_4754.jpg

    Now it’s time to disconnect the battery. An airbag deploying will also set back your budget. I read wait 15 mins for everything to discharge before you remove the front seats. This is good advice. I started in the back, so hours went by to give it plenty of time.

    IMG_4842.jpg

    Removing the rear seats is straightforward. I think it was a 17mm. Once out, don’t be like me. Take a picture of the entire back to see how all the clips are connected. At one point I could not figure it out and went as far as to put the cloth back on to see how it went.

    I did the long backseat first. The cloth unzips and you will use a square bit to remove the trim. You will see this on all the seats so don’t zip the new ones all the way until you get the trim back in place.

    I separated the seats and began to unclip the cloth. When you are pulling off the old cloth you will run into the hog rings. I tried to keep count for each seat but gave up. Somewhere between 9-12 per section. You will cut those off, pull out the pieces that get stuck in the cushion and replace.

    For the cup holder, you must remove the 3 nuts on the back of the seat and it will slide out. Then take off the bracket. At this point, you may notice there are no holes in your new leather for this bracket. That’s because you get to make them.

    IMG_4770a.jpg

    IMG_4772.jpg

    You need to remove the cup holder from the fold down. There is a right way and a wrong way. Prying gently up on the rear side until it unclips and then pulling up and toward you is the right way.

    IMG_4771a.jpg

    Prying from the sides until you hear a crack and then hitting the bottom with some flex seal and painting the top with plastidip to cover the crack is the wrong way. We don’t have to talk about that anymore. :mad::mad::mad:

    The few installs I found researching online showed reusing the rods that came out of the cloth. I did not have to do that since these came with a plastic rod attached to the leather.

    Slide the leather on and smooth it out. This was not hard to do. I did put it on all the way the first time and clipped everything in before pulling it back off far enough to add the hog rings. This was for my own peace of mind that it was correct. I abandoned this approach after the first one. From then on. I would do a quick fit, not clip anything in, then roll it back far enough to attach the hog rings.

    IMG_4803.jpg

    Cut holes where needed.
    This will be scary at first but by the end, you will be like Edward Scissorhands at a garden party.

    IMG_4781.jpg

    The front seats are more of the same. You will have ribbons sewn into the leather for the airbags. Just reattach them as you saw on the cloth. These clip behind the seat.

    IMG_4819.jpg

    This front edge clip on the front seats is tricky. It folds back on itself to attach. This took a bit of time to get back in with the leather the first time. The passengers went a little easier once I figured out how to do it.

    IMG_4810.jpg

    I did not separate the front seat into two. It was easy enough getting the leather between the seats but there is a zipper between the two. This was a pain and on the passenger's side I got it started but not zipped all the way. There is a section that covers this so it's not noticeable, but not right either. I'll try again this weekend to get it right.

    IMG_4826.jpg

    Seat warmers were simple. Just follow the instructions that came with them. I did cut a hole in the cushions for the thermostat to fit into. Cut holes in the pad for the hog rings. Ran the wires between the seats and secured under with zip ties. I came in on each side of the console and routed wires under and across to the fuse box. There was an unused seat warmer spot that I used an add a fuse to connect. I saw a few options on where to mount the switches and decided to put mine out of the way.

    IMG_4816.jpg
    IMG_4824.jpg
    IMG_4828.jpg

    The tips I have are pretty simple. Take your time, take pictures as you go so you know how to put it back and if you lose a tool, a pair of cutters for instance and you search all over for them, look under the leather before installing it back in the truck.

    I have more pictures so feel free to PM me if you decide to try this and I'll send them all to you.
    IMG_4843.jpg
    IMG_4844.jpg
     
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    #1
  2. Sep 19, 2018 at 9:24 AM
    #2
    Squatting Pigeon

    Squatting Pigeon Squattingpigeon.com Staff Member

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    Great write-up and beautiful work.
    Definitely adding this to the list.

    Thank you! :thumbsup:
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  3. Sep 19, 2018 at 9:28 AM
    #3
    Y0TA PR0

    Y0TA PR0 Dirt biking & fishing

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    Awesomeness!! Looks good!!
     
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  4. Sep 19, 2018 at 9:51 AM
    #4
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Great write up. Thank you.
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  5. Sep 19, 2018 at 10:01 AM
    #5
    Ace402

    Ace402 New Member

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    Thank you for posting this!
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  6. Sep 19, 2018 at 10:13 AM
    #6
    saybng

    saybng Just a member.

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    Sweet, awesome write up!!
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  7. Sep 19, 2018 at 10:18 AM
    #7
    Prostar 190

    Prostar 190 SSEM #9 I would rather be water skiing

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    Great write-up and nice work!:hattip:
     
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  8. Sep 24, 2018 at 11:19 AM
    #8
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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    Great write-up, love the spot for the warmer switches, will do the same when the pads arrive this week!
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  9. Sep 24, 2018 at 11:38 AM
    #9
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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    looks great ! thx for the write up
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  10. Sep 24, 2018 at 11:54 AM
    #10
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 YOTAS,RAILROADER,RÖKnRÖLLN',BEER,MAX/GEMMA

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    None yet
    Great job and write up @Patch999 , curious, is it possible to have seat warmers in rear seats as well?
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  11. Sep 24, 2018 at 12:04 PM
    #11
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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  12. Sep 24, 2018 at 12:10 PM
    #12
    Patch999

    Patch999 [OP] SSEM #17 You are what you do when it counts

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    I read where people have added them to the rear. I considered it but don't carry a lot of passengers. You would probably want to install them on a different fuse and need to add some wire for the passenger side. Mine came with extensions that I didn't need for the front, but I don't think they would be long enough.
     
  13. Sep 24, 2018 at 1:22 PM
    #13
    Berkdawg

    Berkdawg New Member

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    Clazzio Seat Covers, Eibach/Toytec Coil Overs (3"), Toytec Boss Rear Shocks, Firestone Airbags
    Thanks for the write up. It looks great. Where did you tap into the truck for the seat warmers?
     
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  14. Sep 24, 2018 at 2:40 PM
    #14
    Patch999

    Patch999 [OP] SSEM #17 You are what you do when it counts

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    The inside fuse box has a unused spot for seat warmers. I used that with an add a fuse.
     
  15. Sep 26, 2018 at 7:19 AM
    #15
    Berkdawg

    Berkdawg New Member

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    Thanks - Can you share which fuse socket? and did you have to use a relay also or is it controlled by the ignition? The mornings are getting cold here and having heated seats will be nice.
     
    Patch999[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  16. Sep 26, 2018 at 7:45 AM
    #16
    Patch999

    Patch999 [OP] SSEM #17 You are what you do when it counts

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    The blank is marked Seat heater on the cover. The add a fuse was too big to put the cover back on so it's a glove box accessory now. It is on the ignition switch. Relays and fuse links were part of the harness that came with the warmers.
    I wouldn't go constant power since it might kill the battery or possibly light the seats on fire. :bananadead: While I was researching I read that happened to someone. Not sure what they did but they did mention leaving the switch on. So I'm guessing they wired it hot.
    IMG_4871.jpg
     
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  17. Sep 26, 2018 at 10:16 AM
    #17
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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    lmao
     
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  18. Sep 26, 2018 at 10:22 AM
    #18
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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    Thanks for this, my cover is off too as I'm already using an add-a-fuse to my light bar switch. Why the heck would someone wire it hot lol. Did you use one for each seat or combine them into one blank spot? Can't remember how many blanks are available.
     
  19. Sep 27, 2018 at 4:37 AM
    #19
    Patch999

    Patch999 [OP] SSEM #17 You are what you do when it counts

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    I combined both and it seems to work just fine.
     
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  20. Sep 27, 2018 at 4:45 AM
    #20
    ARES

    ARES ARES Fabrications

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    Thinking about doing this to my truck. As the hair and mud from the 4 legged children do not fair well to the cloth
     
  21. Sep 27, 2018 at 4:51 AM
    #21
    Patch999

    Patch999 [OP] SSEM #17 You are what you do when it counts

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    Exactly. My pup loves to ride but she sheds. I had to use a nylon brush to sweep the hair off the seats. Add a 15 yrs old that plays basketball after school every day and it would not have taken long for my truck to smell like a foot.
     
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  22. Sep 27, 2018 at 4:52 AM
    #22
    ARES

    ARES ARES Fabrications

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    Thats the issue im running into about the foot smell. The febreeze everyday is not cutting it anymore. And im not about to tell my pup she cant go out on the town.

    Thanks for the right up bud. I think im going to do this.
     
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  23. Sep 27, 2018 at 5:11 AM
    #23
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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    Today 1-9pm EST, everything on ebay is 15% off with promo code, I bought them last time this way and couldn't find them cheaper, seller "Touchups". Do a search across ebay and the net to confirm best deal. Other ideas:

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/ebay-15-off-sept-27-18-10am-6pm-pt.32173/#post-797029

    You'll be amazed how much crap is on the foam when you strip the cloth, also a good time to give it a nice antimicrobial soap and water wash. The leather is less porous and it feels like a brand new truck.

    I also bought this when we go camping or when my bud's dog is back there, $30 CDN Amazon, looks like US Amazon has lots of versions:

    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dog+truck+cover+large&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Adog+truck+cover+large

    Screen Shot 2018-09-27 at 7.56.59 AM.jpg
     
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    #23
    Patch999[OP] likes this.
  24. Sep 27, 2018 at 5:14 AM
    #24
    ARES

    ARES ARES Fabrications

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    Thank you so much for the discount heads up and the information. I really appreciate it
     
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    #24
    Patch999[OP] and JoshuaA[QUOTED] like this.
  25. Sep 28, 2018 at 7:39 AM
    #25
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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    Didn't realize how easy it is to get into the center

     
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  26. Sep 28, 2018 at 7:44 AM
    #26
    Berkdawg

    Berkdawg New Member

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    Same reason I added Clazzio covers.
     
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  27. Sep 28, 2018 at 4:45 PM
    #27
    RayMcGee

    RayMcGee New Member

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    Thank you for sharing, I should be getting mine on the 8th. Still thinking about getting the heating elements.


     
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    #27
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  28. Sep 28, 2018 at 6:00 PM
    #28
    tomeks81

    tomeks81 New Member

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    Awesome write-up, thanks for sharing!
     
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  29. Oct 8, 2018 at 1:56 PM
    #29
    panicman

    panicman Everyone remain calm.

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    Great write up and result! This is in my plans, and I really appreciate you sharing!
     
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  30. Oct 8, 2018 at 2:21 PM
    #30
    ebpgh

    ebpgh .

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    Just did mine as well. Alea brand with seat heaters. still need to wire those, and adjust drivers side trim. Thanks for the writeup
     

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