1st gen on 35's

I like the price of this kit much better than that of the Archive Garage kit.

 

You get what you pay for. Archive’s is designed for and tested on our 1st gens.

 

That first kit might be fine, but Sean Pistol ran the archive kit and it was proven to work very well with not just ride height but added travel. It's meant for this model truck.

 

The one by Ruff stuff is just a universal kit. They make it to the measurements and specifications that you give them.

 

Nice looking truck!

 

Thank you

 

Reviving this old thread, hoping you guys that commented last year know where to send me looking.

I’ve done a tiny bit of research after a buddy told me what I’m asking about is called “tubbing”.

Anyone know where anything ready-ish is available for our 1st gens if I want to essentially cut out my wheel well and replace it with another, larger?

I cut away the bedsides as a temporary measure before until I can replace with wide bedsides. Cutting revealed that my wheel wells, and not the bedsides, are limiting uptravel.

Probably gonna take a BFH to these “corners” at the front and back of the wells, but they’re very solid. And I’m pretty sure the wells should be “taller”, so no I’m researching “tubbing”. Can any of you point me toward any info?

Thanks

 

Cool

 

Sorry I don't have any answers onyoyr questions. But what's with that leaf spring? Leaf over/under? Thing looks like it's being tortured. Your a prerunner setup?

I'm running stock suspension in the rear on 35s and I rub like hell when I flex with 4 inches of tire poking out o the well

 

It’s long travel. Not tortured; it likes it! A cantilever set-up with 17” limit on down-travel. But when one side steps down the opposite gets stuffed up in the wheel well.

 

I have a 2002 tundra with rcd 6inch lift 315/75/16 hankooks mud tire,3 in body lift, Hamburg upper control arms and icon extended Travel coilers in the front

 

Tubbing is not for the faint of heart.
Here is mine on my Taco when I did it back in 2010.












Tubbing was necessary to fit 35's on a 2" lift. For me it was about a 3 day project. I think I did it when I had a long weekend.


If I was still in SoCal I would definitely offer to help you with the job.

Here was a writeup/ discussion.

 

@Sunnier are you talking about front, rear, or both?

An old mini truck move is to get fenders off a trailer and cut put the fender wells in the bed, weld in the ones from the trailer and throw a sheet of steel on the inner sides to cover the gap. This way you can keep your inner bed in tact, which is something I think you aim for.

Kind of like this

 

If mine is a 2011, what Gen is that?

 

2nd gen

 

Can we get a stuffed pic....for the spank bank?

 

More or less what I did with my tundra to fit 35s before my suspension build. The back rubs now and I need to trim the flares and pull the bedsides out. Hopefully that will buy me enough to run my 1.5" wheel spacers out back.

@Sunnier maybe you can use some rear flares from another vehicle like the 2nd gen eBay flares that are a bushwacker knockoff? That's what I'd try, but I probably would have tried trimming and pulling the bedsides out before going to town with the cutting wheels. Then again I think way more than I do and to be honest that isn't ideal.

Edit- I think I misunderstood what you wanted at first. I have no ideas beyond the already mentioned trailer fenders. I would note that you might wanna make sure your leafs aren't going into negative arc when all the way bumped out though. You probably already know the answer to this, but it's worth mentioning.

 

That looks like major surgery! I’ll check out the thread. Thank you!

Just the rear. The fronts are muy bueno.

You’re right; the whole reason I went for the cantilever instead of a bed cage was to preserve full use of the truck bed. This pics you posted are what I was thinking. So I’ll need to figure out this trailer mod. Thanks!

LOL! “You guys”....

<checks phone... ...for stored smut>



Here you go:






And here’s what’s happening on the other side, that pushes the axle up on this side:

 

Ooooooo yeah!!! I bet the shackles are stretched tight!! There’s a guy in another group I’m on with a nasty 80 series LC on 37 or 38” that stuffs them like that, he does some nasty stuff with that triple locked beast.
Thanks for the smut!

 

I'm not wondering any less about those springs going into negative arc. Looks close with my calibrated eyeballs.

 

Thanks for weighing in with ideas, K.

Yeah, I think the springs are working as designed. I posted a couple of pics above that kinda illustrate what’s happening. The droop that I want happens on one side, which tips the axle so the opposite side rises up.

I did hit up some buddies to maybe pull the bedsides, but it wouldn’t have been enough clearance. So I ordered wide bedsides but I won’t have them in time for an upcoming trip, so I decided no harm in cutting as a temporary measure. Got some personal mod experience, learned some stuff. But now I see it’s the wheel wells that are limiting uptravel, not (just) the bedsides.

 

On the gen 1, you can cut the corner of the cab and then plate it. Gen 2 has to trim body mount, gen 1 gets to trim body. Its no big deal if you put the time into it

 

I only have trouble at the back. The front, cab and body, is fine. But the “corners” at the bottom of the back wheel wells are pretty strong, reinforced with layers from overlapping parts of the truck. So we’re gonna play more with a BFH, but I think it’ll need cutting.

I’m looking for more info/ pics like @Darkness posted; I think that will be the way forward.

 

You’d be surprised at how many people don’t take the time necessary to add/ modify their bumpstops after they switch to an aftermarket leaf spring.

When I worked for All-Pro Offroad we had a strict policy about warranty of the leaf springs. Nine times out of 10 if the springs had worn out early or had a broken main spring it was due to lack of a proper (or any) bump stop.

 

I don't think I'd be surprised at all. I am a pessimist.

 

Ah, I see what you guys are referring to. Yes I did lose a bump stop on that trip. But it was replaced after and is on now. And there was always one on the drivers side, shown stuffed in the pic above.

These were just the only pics I could find tonight.

 

I've got the solution. Just pull the bed to do offroad stuff. Then, when you're not flexing and out on the street you can have the bed on! No cutting or welding required! I'm a genius.

 

Genius!! (Indubitably)





Sadly, this won’t work. The whole reason for keeping the bed, bedsides, and rack, is so I can blast around off-road for multiple days and nights.... so I need to haul a bunch of stuff with me. But I like the thinkin’.

 

Ditch the bed and haul a trailer