Replacing OEM JBL subwoofer with aftermarket question

glad you found that pic, because I wasnt sure how I was gonna explain it either. I know how to do it.. but ex[laining it is a whole different issue

 

Lol, indeed. Good thing all the big known brands have them available.

Matter of fact, heres a link to one thats interactive.

https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp

 

Perfect thanks. I also believe the stock JBL speakers are 2 ohm. I assume it would be best to keep it at this rather than lower the resistance to 1/2 ohm? I know that the stock amp is very weak but don't remember how the ohm,watts and all that work anymore.

 

Definitelystick to the 2ohm load. 2 ohms is actually pretty low. A 1/2 ohm load is seriously low. Even big badass amps typically cant run that low.

Raising the ohm (impedence) to a higher number is typically safe. Most times its better for the system and sound quality, though high ohm loads dont provide the same amount of power. Its a trade off.

 

Thank you so much. I'll be doing this early next week and I'll report back as to how it sounds. It may be a total waste without an amp but worth a shot for now, if it fails I can add some of those rca adapters and a small mono amp for sub

 

If what i read is right, i think the sub should pair up well power wise. The sub enclosure will effect the overall output the most though.

Its a good excuse for a custom box in the future!

 

This is intriguing to me. I am all for a project and love woodworking. I have the means and skill to make my own box for sure......all I would need is an idea of dimensions as far as cubic feet, ported, sealed.....hint hint

 

I can model the subwoofer in different enclosure alignments and volume a little later.

Actually, in a little while ill post the link to a legit free program for modeling sub enclosures. It comes off as a bit complicated but it doesnt take much to get the general understanding of it.

 

Thanks @Twinky for the info and pics and corrections!

 

This software is 100% free and theres no trickery during the download and install. No add ware or anything of that nature.

A few things firstly. This program isn't the type that you're building a sub box in. You just input the volume and port area/length if needed. It then illustrates the frequencies, dbs, phase transfer, excursion, port air velocities, ect... and ... ect...

You will also need the Thiele/Small parameters of your sub woofer. Not all manufactures make these available. Most respectable manf. will at least have the few important ones listed. Kicker does have the complete t/s parameters for the Comp Rt for download, but only the 2016 version has the full set which will work just fine for the earlier versions.

And Indeed you will have to read the guides, some youtube, and google for some of the better tutorials. I'll see if i can find one of the better ones and link it.

I recommend the second download version, the 2004. Much easier on the eyes than the newest.

http://www.linearteam.org/

Another must have. Chris Torres' Box tuning calculator,
https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-818/
The download link is at the end of the first post. That first post is the tutorial also.

Helpful links,
https://www.hometheatershack.com/fo...wnload-detailed-guide-how-use-winisd-pro.html

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74558



The Driver editor above Ive already completed the parameter for the kicker comprt sub woofer.
just make yours look like the above and you will be able to start tinkering.

just ask and ill try to help make sense out the unclear parts.

so yeah, ill go ahead and say that it looks like that little kicker will be able to dig pretty low for an eight if used in a vented/ported enclosure. Can be decently loud but it will be at the cost of the low end response.

doesn't look bad at all.

 

Right on!
And i thank you too

 

The amp comes in Tuesday and I got bored today so I decided to install the sub and see how it compared to OEM. Honestly I don't notice a difference, I feel like this sub definitely needs more ass than the factory amp can provide to it. I did stuff the enclosure with poly fil, roughly half a 12oz bag. Not sure if I should mash it in there tight or not and use the whole 12oz bag.

 

I wouldn’t stuff the polyfil in tight. I have used the stuff in the past with good results but I didn’t this time because the space in the box fell within the specs for the sub. Keep us posted on the results with the amp and maybe take some pics of your progress on the install for others who view this thread.

 

The subwoofer hardly moves with the radio cranked high. Also any bass it provides is drowned out by all the other speakers, just like the factory one. I'm not an audio guy, but I am assuming that it simply needs more "gain" through an amp? I wired the subwoofer in series as mentioned in this thread, utilizing all the factory wiring. Here's a few pics..

 

@V10Ace which amp did you get?

 

I went with this one

Kicker 43CXA3001

$300 Kicker CXA300.1 300-Watt Mono Class D Subwoofer Amplifier

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BDCBNUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Id recommend taking the polyfill out and see if theres a difference then.

Something else you can do to make sure the sub is mounted/ sealed well to the enclosure,
With your fingers press the speaker in alittle bit.
Then let off quickly.

What you are looking to see is if the sub immediately bounces back to its normal position or if it slowly moves back to its normal position.

If it doesnt bounce back immediately then there is a leak. The air in the box is like a spring when it is properly sealed.

And does your headunit have a sub woofer volume?

Edit
How many coils and ohm are the sub?

 

I will try what you mentioned tomorrow when I am back in the shop. I will say that none of the factory holes lined up, so I had to drill new holes into the thinner plastic that you can see in the first pic. I didn't make the screws too tight, just a good seat due to the thin plastic. I am using a Pioneer 4200nex as a head unit. None of the subwoofer options work. I am assuming it is because I do not have the subwoofer hooked up independently through RCA's at the back of the radio. I will do that when the amp comes in.

 

Yeah, you are right about the sub controls. I thought you might of had the jbl unit.

And if you didnt see my last question i edited in,
You got the 1ohm dual voice coil sub right?

 

Yes sir. That's correct!

 

Hmm... Seems like you know how and have got it all installed right.

I do think the kicker amp will make a big difference. Theres no telling how the jbl amp has its setting on the sub channel.

The polyfill, just guessamating its volume, a half a pound or less. Probably a little less imo.

 

Like I said, I am no audio expert. The oem wires are green and black at the enclosure. I cut off some of the factory stuff as it was way too long and utilized one of them to bridge the secondary pos/neg to each other. Then I took the green to the red and the black to black on the remaining terminals. I'll try taking all the poly fil out tomorrow after work.

 

Hi there!

Not sure if your looking for simple and save yourself some $ but for $900.00 I had this system installed. Alpine R series 6 1/2 component up front, 6 1/2 in the rear doors, Alpine amp replaces stock amp for door speakers. I found a low profile Pioneer 10” sub box that fit within the cargo box and bought a Pioneer amp to run the sub. Under the hood is a Kicker fuse and wire package. Attached is the sub pic.

 

That worked out really well, looks great.
Do you happen to know the dimensions of the sub box? Or maybe the internal volume?

 

Checked for leaks and there aren't any. I put some foam type stuff around the ring of the sub and synched it down for reassurance. It hits slightly harder with no poly fil in the enclosure but nothing to write home about compared to factory. Installing amp tomorrow

 

My dual 1ohm voice coil sub will be here later this week. I have the JBL so we'll see how it goes with the new sub. I will try it in the OEM sub box with and without polyfill and I really hope it's better than OEM. I plan to wire it at 2 ohms but could maybe try 0.5 ohm to see if that's better. I don't think I'll blow it with the stock JBL amp. I am also open to building a new box for this sub, not sure what size but o assume it needs to be bigger than the OEM box. My last resort will be wiring in a small single channel amp but i really don't wanna do that.

 

I doubt the stock amp can support 0.5 Ohm, it will burn out or hopefully just go into protect mode and shut off.

 

I have the JBL as well. Not sure if the 3rd gen has a more powerful amp or not. Maybe you'll have better results with the stock head unit and the ability to change subwoofer level?

 

Ok this is good to know. So 2 ohm it is. Thank you

 

You can change the subwoofer level on the stock headunit?