Coachbuilder VS Toytec Shackles

NDA as in Non-disclosure agreement? Im intrigued.

 

So are the CB shackles really worth purchasing .....does it really make that big of a differnce......and how so?

 

Where is the best place to purchase CB shackles?

 

I couldn't make up my mind about what to do on the rear, so I just did the bilstein 6112s on the front set at 1.9" settings and left the rear alone. My truck sits perfectly level and I run 35" tires with 20x9 wheels with +25 offset. I had to have a custom alignment job done and trim about 1" off the passenger side edge of the skidplate but that is it. This is the cheapest way to run 35s and it looks good in my opinion and is easy to get in the truck with out side steps. It rides better than stock, and I have no bouncing or bucking in the rear-end that many people complain about. I have also towed a couple different trailers and never had a issue. I will include all the pictures below.

 

I'm on 3/1.5 lift and 37"x12.5" tires using:
Front - 6112 with JBA UCA (optional) and a CB shim on each side.
Rear - 5160 with Toytech shackles at 1.5".

 

Nice! What all did you have to do in order to fit 37’s? What was the wheel specs?

 

Wheel is 20x9 with +20mm offset.
I had it re-aligned to move it forward as much as possible while staying within spec: priority is as follows; toe, camber and what ever the caster result is, lol.
I had to trim the body mount and front bumper. Not rubbing right now at level condition but will rub at full articulation and full steering lock. For sure I need to fold the seam weld up to 1st liner mounting hole. More trimmings but will check articulation when I get it up at a loading/unloading dock.

 

Very nice! Don’t seem to many 37’s on a 3” lift like that. Looks great. Got any other pics?

 

Sorry no but more to come later once fully completed.

 

Very nice truck! I wanted to go 37s but I absolutely need it to not rub, as I take my truck out to our hunting property and cross a steep creek where it has to climb up and down the bank and the suspension gets really flexed. Currently my 35s do not rub at all even with full articulation. I want to go to 37s in the future if I know for sure it can be done. I have so many questions for you lol.

1. Did you regear? If not, how do you like it? Does the transmission constantly kick down gears on the freeway at 75 mph?

2. What gas mileage are you getting? I had to figure it manually since the distance you are traveling is not true since the tires are larger.

3. What brand and model 37" tires are you running exactly?

4. How does it ride?

5. Did you lower the drive shaft carrier bearing like coachbuilder recommended?

6. Did you mess with lowering or bending the rear brake brakets?

7. Have you had any traction control lights come on at all under hard acceleration?

Sorry for all the questions but these answers will dramatically help myself and anyone else who wants to run 37s in the future. There is not a ton of info out there on running 37s on a small lift like ours so I as well as others greatly appreciate you giving us as much info as possible. Keep up the good work!

 

1. Not yet but planning on it next year when 5.29 comes out plus lockers. But there is plenty of power when tow mode is selected.

2. There is 14.6% difference from stock to 37" (actual 36.77"). I don't have a complete data set yet (I've been collecting data via fill and trip odometer on all my vehicles since 2001), but I estimate drop about 2.5 mpg.

3. Nitto Ridge Grappler 37x12.5R20.

4. I can't tell the difference between my previous tires, which were Nitto Terra Grappler G2. They are quieter than mud terrain for sure.

5. I did but made my own, adjusted the height until no more vibration and then fabricated finished height.

6. Lowered the lines using OME brake bracket.

7. No lights yet.

 

You seem to do a lot of research like myself, so maybe you can help save me sometime.... did you research and compare all the different brands of upper control arms before you went with JBA? Just curious what made you specifically choose them.

 

I look into all them. It comes down to your intended use and budget. I like semi-seal greasable joint, less maintenance compared to uniball, and I can get K6292 joint when fairly easy when push come to shove for cheap. Uniball will only last about 20K miles at most. The JBA has 90 deg of motion, 40 deg up and 50 deg down. I only offroad once a month. Finally, price is hard to beat, and I'm partial to red, lol.

 

I've got 35K on mine. They don't have any indication that they are failing. I do clean them often and occasionally use a dry lube spray on them.

 

You are probably one of the few exemption because you clean and maintain them. Uniball requires more maintenance to make them last.

 

Nice! Its good to see someone else who digs into the details. Anything I have ever purchased, I can tell you very specific reasons why I purchased it over other options. Everything you said makes sense. My truck is a daily driver and I first and foremost want something that requires minimal maintenance. Price then comes next behind that. Now I will never let price keep me from buying a better product, but it is icing on the cake. The only downfall I see is the red... I have never been into anything flashy, plus my truck is silver so the silver 6112s went perfect. I would have to paint the JBAs silver. The red though I am sure looks nice with your red truck, so it makes sense in your situation. Thank you for all the information. I will definitely look hard at going to 37s with JBA uppers and some shackles in the rear.

Oh a couple other questions...

1. Did you do a front diff drop?

2. On the toytec shackles, what bushings did you use?

3. Who is suppose to be coming out with 5.29 gears and lockers next year? Have you calculated to see what ratio with 37s will be equivalent to stock tires with the 4.30 factory gears? I would have to calculate it to know if I want 4.88 or 5.29. But either way, I am with you on waiting to do that if a locker will be released, especially for the front end. No point in spending money on labor twice.

 

1. Yes

2. The one that it came with.

3. Yes, 4.93 but no body makes 4.93. Nitro, see link
http://www.nitro-gear.com/Toyota-9-CS-10-5-Nitro-Gear-Package-p/gptundra5.7-5.29.htm

 

You have saved me hours and hours of research! Now just out of curiosity, since obviously 4.88 gears are closer to 4.93 than 5.29 are, why not still go with the 4.88 gears? Seems like they would be off by a very small margin. Are you planning to try to go to 40s one day? Or does the extra weight of the larger tires need to be taken into account as well to overcome?

 

No plans 40's since I don't want to lift any higher. I want more ump and to account for tire weight.

 

Anyone on here have the adjustable shackles on the lowest setting with the eibach kit. I have it in the middle and feel like the back is alt higher

 

Very nice and clean looking.....good job bro

 

I have the +2s and i also cut the guards off to fit my 295/70/18 spare. I still am touching on one side. Is your spare touching either shackle?

 

Yeah it rubbed on both. I've since gone a different direction with the spare

 

Not trying to be negative here, because if I had a ton of money I would most certainly buy the more expensive stuff, But for reference purposes on the spare tire, These are off-brand shackles adjustable 1/1.5/2. They are set at 1.0 The clearance to the spare tire is just about the same as the stock shackles.

 

Did you just let it rub and continue to off road? I just don't know how crucial it is that mine barely touch on one side. I like your setup.

 

What does cutting the spare tire do for more room to not have shackle or tire rub?? Does it Bring it up more or push it away???

 

Cutting the two guides allows the tire to be pushed more towards the front of the truck. Without the guides, the spare doesn't move at all. It's snug tight. The guides have holes so they can always be bolted back on to the frame