DSP and crossovers?

Hello there guys. Just had a quick question. I’m working on a build for my 2016 tundra double cab. Just about have everything installed. But my question is this. If I’m going to be using a Rockford Fosgate DSP (DSR 1), do I still need to use the crossovers that came with my
Focal 165 krx2 speakers that are going in the doors? I’m also installing a Kenwood 693s hu and 3 Audiomobile GTS10-10” subs in an enclosed box.

 

Nope. You wont need them if you are wanting to go active.
Good chance your headunit could run an active front stage itself.

 

@MM2165 - what amps are you using? also you will not need those crossovers as long as you have an amp channel for each speaker

 

Will you be running the stock tweeters or adding a set of front tweets? Do the front tweeters hook up directly to the amp? If amp only has one out or you are only running one line to the amp for 2 speakers, I would hook up the xover because it has a HPF for the tweeter.

 

From what I understand the Kenwood hu does have the capability to run an active front stage.
I am using the Arc Audio KS300.4 for my front set of Focal 165KRX2 kids in the doors and teeeters in the sail panels. I then have a pair of sundown 6.5 coaxial going in the rear doors. They have their own crossovers also.

 

this is how mine is setup. stock HU > FiX > TwK > amp > crossover > mid & tweeter. all four doors are the same.

 

Oh ya. And I’ll be using an American Bass VFL-Hybrid 4480.1D to power 3 Audiomobile GTS2210-10” subs. I know it’s overkill. But that’s all I have for now.

 

Thats how I would hook it up also. I would use the xover to seperate mids and highs

 

Your setup will be:
HU > Rockford DSP > Arc Audio KS300.4 > channel 1&2 to Focal 165 krx2 (front doors w/ crossover)
> channel 3&4 to sundown 6.5 (rear door)
> American Bass VFL-Hybrid 4480.1D > 3 Audiomobile GTS2210

I'm sure you know, but to go active you'll need individual wires going to each speaker from the amps, which means you'll need another amp for the rear doors if you choose to go active (2-channel only since you have rear coaxials).
If you do not want another amp then you'll need the crossovers for the front.

 

You can always use the headunits speaker out put for tweeter duties. I wouldnt run it that way permanently but it works decent as a temporary solution.

 

Or use the head unit for the rear doors...
I’d keep equal power for the front stage

 

I dont understand what you mean by keeping equal power for the front stage.

The woofers and tweeters would still have equal power, tweeter vs tweeter and woofer vs woofer.

If it was me though, i wouldnt even run rear speakers for now. Id just wait till i got another amp just for my tweeters. That said, i havent ran rear speakers in my last 3 vehicles. Rear fill is nice but ive always ran my speakers on just two channel amps. Its easier to get the power i want to my woofers at a much more reasonable price and not having 4 amps in my car.

Though, recently i have seen some good priced 100 watt per 4 channel amps.

Currently my woofers got 150 watts potential power. My tweeters i got about 20-30 watts available. They actually are rated at 100rms, but thats just freakin' crazy for a tweeter.

 

You want to give your front tweeters and front woofers the same amount of power ideally....exception would be some crazy SQ (sound quality) build.

I’m running 200w rms to each of my front stage speakers (tweeter, mid-range, woofer). So 600 rms to each side, or 1200 W rms to just the front. My speakers can also handle the power and my system is a SQ build. (Hertz Mille speakers). I’m running 500w rms to my 2 - 10” JL 10w3 subs.

 

Your giving your tweeters and woofers equal power?
And the hertz ml tweeters are 180 peak power. Not rms.

The ml mids are only 100 watt rms. Ive never heard of anyone doubling that before.
The woofers are 125 watt rms unless you have the 1800 series so 200 is possible but not on the tweeters. You most likely have the tweeters line voltage through the rca's ruduced to compensate. So, no. They are not ran on equal power.

Using a seperate amp/power source for tweeters is actually the prefered method but comes at the cost of extra equipment.

I run silverflutes as my woofers and tweeters are peerless (vifa) xt25sc90 and they are 100 watts rms and theres no way i would ever play them that loud. It would be ear piercing.

My front stage setup has, and is by many, very comparable the the hertz ml two way setup. Its also unbelievably cheaper.

Im not tring to be insulting, just clarifying on powering tweeters vs mids.

 

There is no reduction, they are ALL getting 200rms. Hertz speakers can handle the power and have for a few years. When things are tuned and set right no damage will be done.

You also realize it’s done for dynamic range? I’m not blaring my stereo like an idiot either....Also, people do that all the time, It’s done mainly for SQ. I also get my equipment at cost so my system was pretty cheap actually.

I’m not insulted, but don’t know what you clarified?

 

I know what dynamic range is and how it works. An amp set to supply 200 watts rms isnt the same as a amp set to 150 watts rms with a dynamic range of 200 rms.

When you adjust the volume levels of an individual speaker you are actually adjusting the voltage signal that is being sent to the amplifier. Its basically the same thing as setting your amp gains. It is reducing the power of the amp.

You will have dynamic headroom reguardless of what you set your amp gain too as long as the amp has that headroom designed into it.

 

I don’t know why you are trying to explain this to me, I understand it.

 

Oh ya. And I’ll be using an American Bass VFL-Hybrid 4480.1D to power 3 American Audio

 

I don’t know what either of you are trying to explain. But it hasn’t helped me one bit. Lol
But thanks anyway.