13WL Front Calipers

How would I know if I had the upgraded front brake calipers or if the old style are still on? I love the truck but the weak point for me is the stop pedal. I've put new rotors and pads up front and new shoes and drums in back and it just stops...ok, but it seems a.might sketchy pulling my camper with no electric assist brakes.. still considering assembling the kit for the rear disc conversion but would like to know if all I need is to get what i already have dialed in

 

Look at the casting on the rotor. If it says 13wl or 13wg you are good as it gets. 13swe or something like that is the little calipers.

It will be stamped right near the bleeder.

 

I looked today and my 02’ has the WE calipers. The rotors warped the first year I had the truck and the stopping power was weak overall especially when towing. Newer pads helped when they were replaced through the years to pass inspection through the years.

My most recent front end work involved basic new rotors (not slotted) and ceramic pads. This combo of whatever parts they used has made a tremendous difference is stopping for the better. Same original WE style calipers, but better rotors and pads that ‘bite’.

 

My brakes are still breaking in, but so far I don't think there is a big difference in stopping power between the 13WL and the smaller ones.

 

I was just on rock auto and ALL the 13wl kits are gone. Are those any good? Is it plug and play on our 13swe's?

 

Good feedback. Its funny how many threads one can find on more/bigger/better stoppng power related to 1st Gens. Advice ranging from stainless steel braided lines, bigger calipers, yada....

My 02’ stops better than ever now and almost as good as a small car. Not sure of the brand of rotors and ceramic pads, but the installer guy said he has them on his truck so I went with it. Only $200 for the parts. No labor as they were doing the other work.

 

Just do new rotors and ceramic pads that pair up (bite) together with the WE pads.

 

Will do. I think that's next on my list. :thread hijacking over:

 

Thats all good. Not many 1st gen people on here so whatever you can contribute works.

Now I know what things look like under the intake manifold because of you. Looks like the starter is in there.

Have you changed that tranny fluid yet? Curious if that helps your shifts in 2-3-4. I remember years ago having a similiar problem and the new tranny fluid solved it.

 

http://www.someguyinnevada.com/toyota-tundra-starter-repair-a-journey-of-discovery
This is a really good write up of the intake removal. And yeah, that's the starter. No trans fluid yet. That knock sensor fix kicked my ass today. Probably next weekend. I have a new filter on standby. May just drop the pan and refill a few times. But the fluid is a good color on the stick iirc. I might check it and put a pic up on my other thread.

 

With my 2000 DC, I had the 13WE calipers and never got around to swapping to the 13WLs. I tow a 4000lb trailer in the summer from SoCal to eastern Sierras. I had problems with BAD warping the discs with OEM rotors and pads. Usually the OEM rotors and pads would last one to two years max before warping to the point that hard breaking was very disturbing, especially downhill with a trailer. I read that the issue with the 13WE calipers is that they don't "relax" enough to allow proper cooling of the pads and rotors and this leads to disc warping. I have never read that the 13WL give better stopping power, just less disc warping issues.

I was almost ready to swap the calipers out when I tried aftermarket products. I found a good combo with EBC slotted and dimpled rotors and their greenstuff pads. But even better was to go with Power stop z36 kit. Slotted and dimpled rotors and the z36 pads. I got 6 years first time around with the EBC stuff before only slight warping, (several pad changes on the same discs). But the Power Stops so far are even better.

 

Sounds about what my experience has been, except I didn’t go the slotted rotor route. Glad you saved some money like I did without doing the caliper change.

BTW, nice profile pic. Is that ebay?

 

Good guess, but it's Lances on a very good day.

 

I believe the upgraded brake package didn't arrive until mid 2003 model year, so if your tundra is a prior year I would think you don't have them. While the upgraded brakes are much better, they still suck, this is the only gripe I have about my Tundra. When it comes to driving, I am a real cowboy, 4 sets of rotors and 7 sets of pads in 288k. If I make to another round of brakes being needed, I will go to an aftermarket caliper / rotor kit, if I were you I would try this route.

 

I recommend upgrading the rubber brake lines also, personal experience, scary as hell when it blew

 

The stock brakes on my 02 went south at 5k miles (I live in the mountains and it was a loaded work truck). Toyota did the upgrade and it helped, but pads still were toast at about 15k. Last time around we put slotted rotors and RV pads and it has been about 30k and the pads are still good. Another upgrade is to swap the rear drums. I believe the ones Toyota used on my TSB fix were from a v8 4runner. Same size drums, just a bunch heavier..more mass= less heat, better braking.

 

Also I’ve seen a few guys mention here that they’ve adjusted more of the braking to the rear and it helped a ton. There’s a way to split the ratio move more braking to the rear brakes, maybe someone else can chime in or post the link to the thread

 

There is a proportioning valve located under the bed above the rear axle. As weight is added to the bed it opens up more fluid to the rear brakes. Mine has been wired open almost since new as I had side boxes, a rack, and lots of parts on the truck at all times. I retired this year and the rack is gone and the alum. side boxes are mostly empty. I did not undo the PV and have not had any issues with rear brake lock up. For a milder fix, simply adjust the valve to be open as much as you want when the truck is empty. My original reason for setting it wide open was that I have air bags so was at normal empty height when loaded.

 

Adjust the nuts UP to send more braking to the rear axle.

 

Bingo try this