Headers, exhaust, intake questions for first gen 4.7L v8 tundras

So is anyone running headers and if so which ones? What's available? Same questions apply for exhaust and intake. Is an take worth it? I'd like to either upgrade the intake tube (like the airaid modular intake tube for Tacoma) and retain the stock airbox or maybe buy an intake with an air box. What kind of gains can be expected if I do all those things?

 

@Darkness has headers. He will hopefully chime in.

I would talk with Keith at @dirtydeeds regarding headers and exhaust.

For intake, I’ve never believed aftermarket “cai” systems add any power and they are way too expensive. I replaced the stock filter with an afe.

 

@Casper421 covered it. Those are the guys you wanna talk to

 

Thanks guys. Hopefully they will chime in.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-tundra-needs-more-power.5792/#post-747104

 

I refuse to chime


Save your money on intake, makes cool noise but won't give you enough power for the cost. The little power it will give is right by redline sk you'll rarely if ever enjoy it. Also many intakes will add to exhaust drone by matching resonance.

I have the black plastic K&N intake, sounds viscous and gave me a bump in fuel economy on highway. Doesn't seem to give any power based on watching my scangauge.

I also have the Airaid tube, makes a bit more noise than stock but doesn't add power. The only difference between that and stock is the stock tube has a little box attached where your vacuum lines run, that box helps silence noise. Stick with stock, I have 2 intakes and I run the stock one lol.

I run JBA shorty headers. If you have smog checks then any long tubes aren't an option and the TRD mid length are impossible to find. Shorties are all I could run, JBA does have one design flaw in the placement of the O2 sensor on the passenger side. If my sensor goes bad I will have to remove that header to swap it I think. They do wake the motor up from 3k rpm up.

I followed the headers with the JBA y pipe, no real difference other than mental I think. The stock y pipe crams two pipes together in a restrictive looking way but I can't say theres a tangible gain in that swap.

I took the remains of my exhaust from the y back, cut off the resonator and muffler and ran 2.5" pipe from the y to my Spintech Prostreet muffler. I ran the stock pipe from the muffler over the axle. Never heard a better sounding 4.7 and it's still quiet on highways unless I floor it.

Maybe chimed too much but I don't wanna leave out good details.

 

Way to chime!

 

Thanks. I have to have Texas state emissions and safety inspection done every year to get my registration, because of my proximity to Houston. So short tubes would be my only option.
So you pass inspection without cats?

 

With the shorties from JBA you still run cats, the stock cats are retained. You have an 06 so they gain a bit more horsepower than my truck but I believe some have reported difficulties installing because there is a bolt near the air injection lines that is hard to get in. Worth a little digging around but they've worked for others.

Found a pic of the fuss. Looks like it can be avoided by stacking a few washers, I would maybe consider using an allen button head bolt and flip it so the nut is where the bolt head is here.

 

Thanks for the mentions guys. Pretty much hit the nail on the head up there^

I was involved with jba in the development of their long tubes for both generations of tundras. Hit me back with any questions.

And if you want the perfect exhaust behind your headers that’s what we do:

DirtyDeedsIndustries.com

 

Yeah I been checking our your stuff the last few days. I live in an emissions county so I would need short tube headers for o2 sensor I guess. Is there really a difference in power between short and long tube headed? Is your race exhaust street legal?

 

Long tubes definitely make way more power than stock.

Shorties make no power over stock and lose low end torque.

 

So what's the point of shorties?

Is your race exhaust street legal?

 

Long tubes would be nice if not for inspections. Shorties pass, I don't think there is loss.

 

Why won’t long tube headers pass inspection/smog?

 

Long tubes pass in states where they only look to see if there is cats.

But in states like California the government requires a bribe..... uh $ to test the long tubes to make sure they pass emissions.

A standard old school emissions test will prove that. But California didn’t get their free $20,000.

I’ve thoroughly tested shorties with before and after dyno sheets. I’ve never been able to see gains on either the dyno or st the track with shorties.

I’m not just saying this to sell anything. Shorties sell 10/1 over long tubes because they’re legal, easier to put in, and cheaper. But with no benefit you’re paying money to spend 8 hours installing headers for nothing.

 

No gain from shorties? What about on the low end? That's where I want the gains anyways is low to mid

 

I don't think they have a spot for the upstream o2 sensor

 

Long tubes gain mid, low end, and top end.

Shorties lose low end. Don’t gain any top end. But are pretty when you first install them if you opt for ceramic coating.

 

Is it possible to pass CA smog with long tubes?

 

Some guys use the sticker from shortie headers and make em pass with stock cats. And some guys recreate the sticker from the old Trd headers and use stock cats to make em pass.

But that is horrible and hurts trees, butterflies, mold and algae, and is just plain wrong because it makes hippies cry. So I never recommend those above things even though it works

 

So maybe I can use long tubes in an emissions county in Texas? It's just a sticker that effects california? Not an actual effect on your ECU that the inspection computer would pick up???

 

Bump

 

Hmmmm....

 

.
Anybody run the URD 170°F thermostat?

Thinking about buying one along with the DDI 270cc injectors

 

Wierd question:
I keep earinghabout this air injection delete mod. Apparently the air injection system fails and is expensive to fix. Now I also see the headers for the 00-04 tundras are cheaper because they don't have the air injection part.

My question is: could I do the air injection delete mod on my 06 and run the older headers to save money? Once i get around to installing my new DDI injectors and URD t-stat, the next performance mods I'd like to save for is some long tube headers and one of your exhausts. But I have some questions about the long tubes first. Can I run long tubes and my stock cats? And do you offer some kind of o2 simulator? I know URD has em for most Toyotas, but not the tundra.

 

I have racked up over 100,000 miles on the JBA short tubes on my '02 4.7L ... the intake and exhaust are otherwise stock. The factory manifolds leaked & ticked, that's why I replaced them with JBAs. The engine definitely performs / breathes better than it did with the factory exhaust manifolds, drive-ability is improved.