Won't Back up in 4HI

I've had my '18 CM TRD 4x4 for 5 months now. This is my first 4x4 vehicle so maybe I'm asking this question again.
I got the manual out to learn how to switch to 4HI. I was moving about 20-25 mph and switch it to 4HI with no issues. The steering feels a bit different and could feel a faint vibration thru the steering wheel. also when turning with 4HI it feels different.
I got to my destination and forgot I was in 4HI. when I tried to back up into the parking spot, the truck did not want to move. It felt as if the brake was on, I straighten the wheels and it moved a bit easier but when I turned the wheel it kind of locked up, did not want to move.

I don't think this is normal. I moved out and got some speed and switch it back to 2WD and then everything went back to normal.
any input would be appreciated.

 

When running on 4HI yo do not want to be turning at low speeds. You need to disengage 4HI to make your turn if at low speeds. I don't believe I have had an issue backing up on 4HI, while stuck in snow; never have done it dry pavement by can't imagine it's a problem since folks do it when backing a boat down a ramp.

Someone that has more experience or knows more than me (not hard to find) should chime in soon enough.

 

It wouldn't back up because your diff was binding up and getting ready to explode. I don't know if it's the diff or the axles that are gonna break first. Never use 4x on hard dry pavement. In the case of a boat ramp you either drive in straight line or the ramp is wet.

 

You can turn at lower speeds in 4HI. You shouldn't be in 4WD on asphalt unless it has a slippery or loose condition. That would prevent the very binding issue described above. Straight lines on high traction significantly reduces any unnecessary wear, however I wouldn't make a habit of it. Rock crawling, boat ramps, dirt, mud, gravel, etc is fine.
The almighty manual is the best source for speed "limits" within 4H and 4L. They always seem to end at 25mph or so for low, and max around 50 for 4H, but vary due to several factors.
When a guy I knew welded his spider gears on a sammy, he'd lose traction on the "short wheel" in a turn constantly. That's your scenario in reverse. Tire/Traction/wheels locked in 4/stress on shafts and ring and pinion thing going on, all the while your in reverse dragging the front end with all the weight.

Lesson learned. No biggee. Don't make a habit of it..

 

Thanks guys, that makes sense now. I will leave it on 2WD while on asphalt.

 

It is normal, as mentioned above already. The diff is locked at that point so both rear wheels want to turn at the same speed, which can't happen when you turn and the inside path/radius is a lot smaller than the outside. In loose material the inside wheel will just spin, but on pavement for obvious reasons it will feel like the brake is on because of the friction. Backing up in a straight line is no problem. I was on a construction site last Friday where I entered in 4HI for about 300 feet before I realized that I would not be able to turn around because it was too wet, so I backed the same 300 feet out. But, it was a straight line and even if I had to turn it was soft and slippery, so it would not have mattered.

 

I've forgotten to take it out of 4x. You feel it right away on hard dry stuff while turning. Usually (if going forward) I will reverse a little to "unwind" the binding. I use 4 hi offroad and tight cornering a lot, no problem there.

I didn't know if it was inside or outside that would slip first.

 

PM sent

 

I guess which ever side has the least traction will slip first. My experience is that it is usually the inside wheel because it tends to try to spin faster than the outside. If it has more grip than the outside, the outside wheel will drag instead of spin.

 

I don't see it.