Assembled Bilstein 6112s - great all around buy for the leveler in us all?

Looks great!! Is that all you did was install the 6112 shocks? No dif drop? No uca’s? Can’t wait to see the tires!

 

Most coilovers settle after awhile. My guess is that yours will, too, especially with the added weight of the bumper up front. Anyway, be sure to get an alignment after they've settled, and be sure to share photos after you add the bigger tires.

 

Just the 6112s set at 1.9" (one ring down from the highest position). I intentionally did this setting because with only 2" of lift, you 100% don't need a diff drop, upper control arms, or a rear lift. Its a lot less work and you can still clear 35s with some minor trimming. Plus at the 1.9" setting I have heard the 6112s ride amazing... they were telling the truth! I will have the 35s on tomorrow, then I am going directly over to NTB to have an alignment done. The package I paid for a year ago covers any vehicle I own, unlimited amount of alignments, for 4 years. So I will get it aligned tomorrow, then again in a month after it settles some, then again at probably 3 months just to be sure it has not settled more.

I will definitely post pics after the tires are on.

 

Well, here they are. I didn't think about it until later, but I have about 300 lbs of stuff in the bed in these pictures so if the rear looks a little low, that might be it. The 35s completely clear, didn't even have to bend the skid plate either.
This picture above is it clearing the body mount by about 1/4". It did NOT clear it until I had the alignment altered by "rolling" the wheel forward.

Here is the tire at full lock near the skid plate. It clears it by more than a thumb width. The skid plate is NOT modified.

20x9 wheel with +25 offset, 35x12.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

The alignment settings required to clear 35s without a body mount chop.

So the truck rides a little more rough with these tires. After some debate with the discount tires guys, we decided to set the pressure on the tires at 45 psi. I think this is a little high after riding in it. I do not haul or tow much and think 40 psi will ride better. Plus I have a 12 volt air compressor I keep in the truck if I need to tow or haul and bump up the back tire pressure.

All in all I love this truck now, I highly recommend 6112s and some 35s!

 

Looks good bro!!!!

 

So I realized today after cutting a hard left with the steering wheel locked, the 35" tire barely caught the skid plate. This only happens on the passenger side. So I went home and pulled out my 4 1/2" grinder and put a cutting wheel on and trimmed the corner ears (about 2 inches wide by 5 inches long) off both passenger and driver side to make it even.

 

Love the look!! Does anybody know if this change will affect the Toyota warranty??

 

I use to work for a few different GM dealerships here in Texas back in the day. They loved to tell people the warranty is void because they modified this or that. Most people sad to say are pacifists so they just accepted the answer. The people who spouted off that above law, and said "do I need to get my attorney involved?", immediately got their cars fixed with no more hassle. The burden of proof falls on the dealer, and to be honest, they are getting paid by the vehicle manufacturer anyways, so they are not going to put up a huge fight, its technically not their battle to fight. So as long as you stand your ground, they will warranty it. Now just to be clear, if you go spray a 500 shot of nitrous on a stock motor and go in with the nitrous bottle hooked up with your motor knocking (blown motor) they are going to void your warranty. As long as it is not very obvious it was ridiculously abused, they will warranty it. In my example if I came in with my truck, clean, no mud, no scratches, skid plate not dented, frame doesn't have scratches from offroading hard, and my rear end was making noises... as long as I stand my ground, they will warranty it even with 35" tires. Now if I went in there with mud all over my truck, skid plate bashed up, frame has marks from rocks/boulders, and the tires have small slice marks or chunked from me spinning them climbing stuff, they might put up a fight. Make sense?

 

Great write up man. Really appreciate all the detail and the use of hands and such for “scale”. Truck looks great too!

Where did you read about the 6110’s riding better at 1.9” than at 2.5”?

 

No problem, I am a details guy and hoped it would help someone else. Figured with all the reading and research I did it might save some others some time.

I was told that the 6112s ride better at 1.9" than 2.5" by multiple different people who have them and had either ran them at 2.5" and moved to 1.9", confirming the ride was smoother, or people who had them at 1.9" and moved them to 2.5" and then regretted it because the ride was rougher. Also the feedback the guys at 4x4boss who sold me the 6112s, said that all the customers feedback says the 1.9" setting rides the best. Plus if you think about it, when you raise the clips higher for the lift, you are just preloading the spring a little more which is going to stiffen the ride a little more. I am not saying they will ride horrible at 2.5"... I am jist saying at 1.9" they are about a smooth as stock without the body roll.

 

Thanks. That makes sense.

What rear shocks did you go with in the rear? I’m looking at the 6112’s for my front and searching for a good match for the rear.

 

https://www.boss4x4s.com/complete_bossed_out_6112_5160_3_1_kit_toytec_shackles_new_product

Is anyone running this kit essentially? I am a bit worried about the diff drop, would that be necessary for the 2.5 up front and 1 inch shackle in rear? Feel like no one has to drop.

 

That makes sense. I haven’t installed my 6112s yet, so can’t comment on them. But past experience with two different adjustable coilovers on 1st gen Tacomas is similar to what you explained. The more I cranked them upwards with the spanner wrench, the stiffer the ride got given the preload. Granted, the difference wasn’t huge, but it was enough for me to tell, especially when cranking them up from 1” to 3” over stock ride height.

 

@Slp82 I guarantee that 2.5 inches you saw has dropped by now. Mine measured over 3 inches immediately after install. As you drive and things settle it, you will drop down to the proper lift height. From your pic with the new tires (looks great), you already have.

Mine did as soon as I went down the road and swerved around a bit to compress the shocks a few times.

-Jim

 

I am really on the fence with settings for 6112s. I dont tow or haul too often but I really do not want to be nose high when I do tow or haul. Also I want the truck to sit slightly higher in the rear. Maybe an inch. Right now my Front measurements are 22 inch from hub center to bottom of fender on both sides. I'm 24.5" on driver side rear, 24.25" passenger side rear. I think 1.9" lift is going to be too high for my desires so leaning toward 1.3" setting. Want the 6112s for a little added clearance may run a 275/70/18 but do not envision going larger really. So..... curious as to any experienced folks thoughts on that situation. I ran 6112s on my tacoma but new to the tundra realm.

What's the real downside of running on the 2nd clip (1.3) setting? @scornwel @Borgs

 

I ran 275 70 18s on stock height. It rubbed bad on the front forward fender flap only on full lock and reverse. That was with 18x9 MB 352s with +25 offset. Over time, as the tread wore down, it rubbed less until I finally removed that little front flap.

So with that said, I think 6112s at the 1.3” setting would work well with 275s.

FWIW, I just installed mine (at the 1.9” setting) and finally took it on a 30 mile test drive as I commuted into work. I could definitely tell an improvement over the stock SR5 double cab suspension. I highly recommend them for an improved ride.

 

Mine settled nicely. 1.9.

 

The real down side is just less front lift. Ride quality would be excellent. I wanted it to be level during most driving conditions, and would personally be reluctant to spend $800 to raise the front about an inch. At that point, in my opinion, I'd probably just leave it like it is since I didn't mind the stock ride otherwise. Two "shims" in the front on each side could get you that 1in lift for like $60 bucks.

Based on your wants and needs you have two options - 1.3in setting, or 1.9in setting AND a 1 inch lift in the rear. I can confirm when I load up the bed with my dirtbike, gear, gas, etc, I am a smidge nose high. 1.9 is basically perfectly level with an empty bed or no tow load.

-Jim

 

What tires you got there? Looks great!

 

Agree it is a lot of $$ for only 1 inch. Wish they made the tundra 6112s with more incremental adjustments like the 3rd gen Tacoma versions. The 6112s just do so much better on rough roads washboard etc from my experience. Appreciate your input.

 

I don't think I ever actually put pictures up after installing them. Here is 1.9in setting, everything else stock.

 

Thank you! I think I'll go with 1.9.

 

I think only downside will be less lift. But the illusion of the slight rake versus level may make it unnoticeable. I think it will ride better the lower you go on the 6112’s but am not sure.

 

BFG KO2’s. Stock size.

 

I’ve been thinking about this too. Want the rear a little high and to use stock rims.

1.3” and 305/65/18 Cooper at3 (750+(289*4)= $1906
Or
1.9” with 1” rear and 295/70/18 Cooper at3 (750+94+(250*4))= $ 1844

Any input on either of these options?

 

Great thread guys...thank you!!!

I am going to install this kit on the 1.9" setting this summer, along with a set of Toyo ATII in size 275/65/20 (on the Toyota wheels). Has anyone experienced any rubbing with this size tire? Thanks again!!!

 

When I first got my truck, about 10K ago, it was siting at 3" in front (too much a spacer lift IMO). I did notice a bit of rubbing with my 275/65/20 Good year DuraTracks when turning, on factory 20" wheels. However, the truck now has only 2.5" lift in the front and maybe 1/4" less tread now and I don't really get much rubbing. I should note though, that my truck has factory mud flaps that definitely protrude into the tire path more than anything else in the wheel well.

This is a good website for seeing how changing tire size and offset can affect fitment. If you haven't checked out this thread, and it's a doozy, there's tons of great info in here for all things wheel and tire on our trucks.
Official Tundra Wheel and Tire Setups - Pics and Info

 

So I've ruled out 5110s (front) based on this thread. I am looking to go 1.9'' (2") in front with 5100s in the rear. I do want about 1'' of rake in the rear but don't know what I need to make this setup happen? Do I need shims, diff drop, bumpstop extensions, blocks/shackles?? The boss kit has all those other items like shims and diff drop and such but is it necessary to gain 2'' front and have a 1'' rake?

 

Perfect. What else did you have to add (shims, diff drop, bumpstop extensions, cam bearings ect)?

 

Here is mine set at 3/1.5". I stuffed it with 37x12.5 tires.