Do you change your own oil?

Sometimes the quality of work you receive is a direct reflection of how much it cost. The best work done in a truck is normally by the owner because they take pride in their work and want it to be top notch.
We also inherently inspect EVERYTHING as we do work and can fix the little things or note them for a later day. I'd much rather pay an extra 5 bucks to do it myself. Especially since the last 2 times I've taken my truck to a dealership, THEY LOST THE FUCKIN OIL CAP.

 

No, I buy the oil and filter and take it to my friends shop and pay him $20 to change it.

 

Just called the local dealer for a price on a 30k service. $220 for a tire rotation, oil change, and air filter check... I always did my own maintenance before getting the Tundra and looks like I will be doing the same again. Was hoping to bring it in so they could poke around before bumper to bumper ends but that is pretty steep for an hours worth of work I can do in my garage.

 

Seems steep. The dealer rotates my tires every oil change every 5k miles, I get charged $70. Air filters are easy to check myself.

 

Change me own oil because I can choose what I put in the vehicle, and how I do the work. The only person I can blame when something goes wrong is myself. No appointments, no waiting, no arguing with a manager when sh*t goes wrong.

 

I got my 2 free oil changes through Toyota Care. I changed it for the 1st time on my own yesterday. I bought the Motivx oil filter drain device, bought the metal housing for the filter, put on the Fumota. I also bought 5 Toyota OEM filters for about $28 and used Mobile 1 0w20. I've always changed my own oil and will continue to do so. It gives me a chance to crawl around under my truck and look around. This fourm has been great.

 

I don't change my own oil. I always say I don't have the time, but the fact is it takes a lot longer to take it to the dealer and have to go pick it up again, so that excuse is not really valid. Although, if I change it, it will be on a Saturday, which is my time. At the dealer I drop it of on a week day morning, they shuttle me to work and come pick me up again when they are done. I am only 6 minutes from the dealership, so it is not much of a hassle. That's honestly the only reason I don't do it myself; I actually enjoy doing it when I have the time.

And, because I use my truck for work, the company pays for my oil changes. If I do it myself it would be on me; at the dealer I just swipe the company card.

 

Been doing mine since the early 2000's on all my Toyotas even when they gave the free maintenance.

I enjoy doing it. I know it's done correctly. I only use amsoil and their filters. Gives me satisfaction after the job is done.

Just did the first change at 5K and put on Fumoto F103S LC-10 valve and Jowett Billet Oil cap with quick drain.

https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

$37 Fumoto Original F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9FCRWM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will say for those who have not yet attempted... the oil drain location with a warmed up engine shoots out oil like a geyser towards the passenger front tire. And if one uses a large drain pain ensure you have cardboard and rags down for overspill. Ask me how I know this...

Subsequent oil changes will be very easy and clean with the above alterations.

 

What made you decide on the S version of Fumoto? I was going to order the N version with the clip and tubing. I don’t have any experience with Fumoto and this will be the first truck I put it on.

 

It has a very small ridge to attach a nipple and 3/8" hose for easy draining.

Makes for a nice clean drain with the hose going into my oil container that I take down to Advance Autoparts to dump.

That white nipple from Fumoto attaches to the valve. Zero spills.

 

I haven't changed mine in the tundra, but used to in other vehicles. I bought the warranty with it and have since used them all up. I have thought about changing it myself, but I can't do it for much less than the $50 the dealer charges me. I also have a one year old at home, and it's hard to find time to get everything out and ready. The techs have forgotten to put all of the screws back in my skid plate multiple times, so now after they bring my truck around, I pull over to a parking space and look it over. I crawl under the truck to make sure everything is in place and even pop the hood to check the oil. A friend of mine had a different toyota dealer forget to put oil in before!!

 

Forgot to add...

If you do go with the white gasket to fit on the Fumoto valve, you can also use it to fit on the plastic drain tool that comes with a new oil filter cartridge. That will also allow you to drain the filter canister with zero spills.

This is the wife's 4Runner (Lexus metal canister mod) using the same tube and gasket attached to the plastic drain tool.

 

https://www.motivxtools.com/products/toyota-lexus-oil-filter-drain-tool


You NEED this one. Outstanding tool. You won’t lose a drop with this.

 

I think I’ll go with the N version. Longer nipple and will just need the hose at that point. I don’t think on a slightly lifted Tundra the extra nipple length will cause any issues. I haven’t ordered yet so I may change my mind.

 

Ya. I saw that one recently here on a different thread. Might do that. Right now the plastic one from Fumoto has done the trick.

Good luck. FYI, the OEM front skid plate has hooks in the front. You need to push up and to the side to release the skid from the truck. Should have took a pic when it was off to help show you. I've ordered the RCI skid during their 4th of July sale so I won't have to take the entire skid off when changing oil.

 

I’ve changed my oil three times now so I’m familiar with the skid and also that oil coming out Mach 10. It’s why I want to go with the Fumoto and I’m also ordering the RCI skid for ease of change. What did you pay on the 4th sale?

 

Tried finding one for the 1st Gen Tundras with no success. Anyone finds one let us know!

 

I change the oil in the wifes and my daily driver. I have a local shop that changes the oil on my Tundra. I know the owners very well and they offer Amsoil. A few of the techs took my welding class I was teaching a while back , good people who know wtf their doing and I make it a point to support our local businesses.

 

338 with shipping. Aluminum Raw. Still not shipped yet. Hoping I receive it soon.

 

I made a living for many a year off of my sweat until I got my current job which is a lot more desk time than manual labor. So I enjoy changing my oil and working on my vehicles. My wife asks why I don’t have my son do the yard work, it’s because That’s my relax time now.

 

I'm a DIY guy but since I have 4 oil changes due me from purchasing my truck brand new, I will use this to my advantage. I am sure the 5th one and so on will be performed by me. It's more about the piece of mind to me of doing the job right. Also, when you are underneath your own car, you can do a visual inspection yourself on things that may need addressing. I have found items on some of my previous cars this way and had them addressed via warranty from the dealer.

 

I figure that in less time than I would spend at the dealer I can do it myself easily. Plus I do it on my schedule and don't have to leave work early. I probably save $30 too. I have always done my own and normally kids too. Last time a quik lube place did son's Escape I had to use a 2' cheater bar to get oil pan plug off. Previous vehicles all had cannister filters. I am still trying to figure out if the oil filter hose is worth it. Seems like it would make a bigger mess trying to hook it up or does it go on before loosening the plug.

 

Removing the plug does not release any oil.

 

unless you can work OT for extra $$ your formula is pointless. most employers don't offer endless pay if you work the hours and your surely not taking unpaid leave to have your oil changed.

 

Ran out of free dealer oil changes last service.

Purchased canister tool, drains, metal canister, and lube oils for crankcase, differentials, and transfer case. Should be changing everything later this week.

Need to change the Tacoma, too. Went to 10,000 mile oil/filter changes on the Taco.

 

Nice! I think I’ll go steel. I was quoted 260 shipped.

 

@BTBAKER FYI... Just installed my RCI skid and the 4" bolts came with the wrong size nylon nuts. Fortunately, I had the correct size nylon nuts in my garage... (I inherited hundreds of bolts/screws/washers/cotter pins.... from my Dad in neatly organized shelving units. Comes in handy for projects like this).

You need 9/16 nuts for the 4" bolts they give you. The nuts delivered in the kit were 5/8 nuts....too big. Hoping your kit comes with correct hardware. If not, you know the correct size nylon nut you need (or split washer and nut).


Delivered nut on left.... 5/8. Correct size for the 4" bolt is 9/16

 

Thanks for the heads-up.

I'm awaiting delivery of some RCI skid plates that should arrive in a week or so.

I just got off the phone with RCI and I asked them to make sure they send the correct size nuts.

They blamed your mistake on the fact that they are in the middle of moving to a new location.

Thanks again.

 

Thanks!! I’ll go get some. Did you say they are nylocks?
What do you think of the skid?

 

@bowhun2r I called a couple fab shops to see what it would take to cut a entry port in the stock skid and both wanted around 200. Not worth it IMO. How long did it take to get the skid from time of order?