Just got my 1st Truck, maybe... please help, need advice!

Hi! I've been checking out the posts for the past couple of days, and love all the photos and info on the site. I wanted to ask the guys that know. My gf bought me my first truck!! I helped w/ price negotiations that I'll explain about later. Was wondering if I can get your guys' feedback and figure out if I screwed myself/my girl or if I got a decent deal. Sorry for the long post but I'll try to be as descriptive as I can. Lmk if I miss anything. (short version at the end, scroll all the way down).

So I went to a local new/used yota dealership to look at a truck I found online, been looking for a truck for a while and my gf and I are on a "tight budget". Anywho, got to the dealership and the saleswoman gassed me to buy the truck on my birthday. My gf signed off on the loan. Originally the price we signed for was 12,5oo for a 2007 green tundra, long box, extended cab, v8 5.7, 155k miles not perfect but not bad, little dings, rust, etc., little mods (nothing great), but it drove really nice. The sales lady said that's our "perfect price" blah, blah, and they don't negotiate. So we negotiated, new brakes, rotors, and new tires (probably cheapest they can get), and whatever it needed to pass inspection because they were selling it as is because of the high miles, so no warranty, just 5 oil changes in a year (their definition of maintenance, uhuh). Also the paint is chipping off the rims, and they look horrible. We were happy about the buy, but I don't know a lot of p00p about cars.

It was a saturday, so the lady says she won't be in until Tuesday to handle the reg/insurance/blah, my gf went to work so I went to the dealership to take the truck to my trusted mechanic on Monday (the saleslady was there, and my gf and I had 48 hours to back out of the deal, tricky), immediately my mechanic said you paid too much, what do you need a truck for etc., he pointed out rust issues underneath (not afraid of a little rust but then again don't want rust), the dealership spray coated the truck underneath so you can't see if there are any major rust issues (my mechanic didn't like that and it's a 2k job according to the saleslady, uhuh), I did see the usual rust spots in both sides of the bed underneath (saw someone mention that on this forum), pointed that out to the saleslady and she said they'll fix that (not sure how the can patch forming rust holes). The truck appeared to have never had a tune up, spark plugs, etc, but it did have a new air filter! Long story short, I like the truck and how it drives and feels, doesn't have any bells or whistles, but I figure that's where some mods come in when I can afford them, currently a little broke. Anyway I was going to take a chance w/ the truck but my mechanic advised against it because of the price$, rust issues and high miles.

So I drove it back and w/ a few short hours left on my chance to back out, I backed out, the saleslady immediately contracted down syndrome (I don't intend to be offensive, it just seemed like her demeanor extremely changed from love to you mfer). Anywho after several awkward moments, the manager appeared out of nowhere, and he was like, "what is it going to take". So I says, my mechanic says 7k, I say 8k.. We bounced around 10, then 9, then he says, let's meet in the middle, 9.5, called my mechanic and told him, he says if they don't do it for 9k walk away, so I stayed firm at 9k, after a couple minutes we shook on it, so later the same day we came back and redid the paperwork for 9, which totaled to be 10,3oo because of their godawful fees. So I'm ok w/ that, however, makes me question why they were ok w/ letting it go for 3,5oo less, but I don't care cause I have a 2nd gen Tundra now. The thing is I don't want headaches or at least minimize them. So w/ 2k down we're at 8,3oo left on the loan which I plan to pay off sooner than later. Below is the rundown and little more info.

Their service recommendations:
Engine Code P0418 Air Pumps quoted at 2323.10, that they claim they got the code to disappear.
Diag Code C1340 Center Differential Lock Circuit quoted at 119.95, that they also claim they got the code to disappear.
Ebrake cables left and right quoted at 768.12 which they will fix
Brake Caliper (front) quoted at 672.43 which is crossed off, so not sure if I am getting this replaced or not.
battery replace 158.13 which is also crossed off
mirror assembly interior replace 197.98 which they will replace

The 4 new bullsh!t tires are not in the new deal, but I don't care because I can actually get lightly used and ones that I actually want. They quoted 620 for tires..

Anyway sorry to be long winded, hope it makes sense of my situation. I just want to know if it's a decent deal or if I'm getting hosed. I still have about 30 hours to back out of this new deal, truck won't be ready until Thursday or Friday.. What do you guys think, any advice? suggestions?

Rundown:
I'm about 6 '3 - 6 '4 and the cars I've owned. Don't ask me how I fit in the rsx, civic
1990 Ford Taurus not SHO >:-/
2002 RSX-S
2002 Lexus ES300
2012 Civic SI (gave to my gf so she can go to work)
2007 Toy Tundra LB 5.7 (POTENTIALLY!)

short version:
saw truck online 155k miles for 12,5oo, went to dealership, purchased for their "perfect" non-negotiable asking price, after a day there was 10 hours left to back out of deal, took the truck to the mechanic, he said what are you crazy?! that's too much $$ and miles for a truck like that, came back to the dealership to back out of the deal, talked to the manager, ended up with a 3,5oo discount minus new tires, still have about 36 hours to back out of this deal. So what do you guys think? Should I back out of the deal or go ahead for 9,ooo plus the 1,300 in their abominable fees? already have 2ooo down, so that leaves 8,300 on the loan, 170 bucks a month for 5 years which I plan to pay off within 6 months, somehow. I hate paying interest. I will post a photo of the truck as soon as I can. P.S. I love you guys, and thanks for your input.

Adam

 

Well with what little I know about the truck, just based on the info you gave, NADA says that the "Clean" trade in is 10K, with a "Clean" retail of 13K. So with the few bumps and bruises you mentioned, I'd say you got a good deal on the surface. Unless there is something more wrong with it, feel good.

Oh and all dealerships pull that crap, that they can't budge whatsoever, they did all this work on it, psshhhh. When they trade in a car, they instantly add about 5K to what they paid to sell it for. They by far make more money on used than new. At least at the dealership I worked at.

 

I purchased my 5.7L '07 with 270k on it from an individual about a year ago, it will have 280k on it very soon. High mileage helps you negotiate a lower purchase price, but it doesn't hurt the truck as long as it was maintained according to manufactures recommendations.

If you are experiencing anxiety about the current deal, walk away and keep shopping.

 

I agree with the above. At 155k you'll have little things to fix. As long as there are not any major issues, ya you got a good deal. I would question what they mean by getting those codes to disappear. Did they just delete them code reader or actually solve the problem.

 

Sounds like at this point there is no turning back. I think the price is good, unless there is something major like rusted frame or engine issues, but most likely not. I know of many trucks with more than 200,000 miles and still going strong. Enjoy the truck!

 

Well the I love you’s came quick lol
I’m not going to lie. I didn’t read your monstrosity of a post

From the little info I did read. As long as the title is clean then 12k is not bad. You may have over paid or you got a steal. It’s bettwr than the 47k I spent on a PRO

All I can say is go with your gut. Keep it if you love it and just drive with the music blasting and windows down.

Could be just anxiety of making a large purchase. If you feel like it has too many issues then return it and keep on looking

 

title is clean, i do enjoy the truck, is it practical? who cares, what is these days?? got it for 9k plus 13oo in fees not 12 plus 13oo in fees!! thank all you guys for your advice! I just texted the sales lady about the engine codes! will keep you posted t-minus 34 hours! I voted maybe but I'm leaning toward yes, just to get it over with.. I'm thinking not bad for a first truck.

 

Welcome from CO.

 

Price seems more than fair considering what I have seen or what others are considering for similar year model.

 

just realized I have 2 tits in my handle name :-O

 

Yeah, the codes are the only thing a little questionable. They should be able or have to fix those before selling a truck anyway. So I'd tell them to check those out and then you'll buy it. OR, see if they will give you some kind of 60 day warranty at least so if you have any problems with it immediately after buying it.

 

This. If they can't clear the codes, properly, by fixing the issues as opposed to just clearing them from a reader, I'd probably walk. Running codes like that won't pass inspection in some states.

 

me: Quick question, the two engine codes, were they just deleted or were the problems actually solved? (Thank you goes out to Garvin74)

saleslady: We gave you a list of all the work that would be done. I'm not sure what kind of places your used to working with.. But we pride ourselves on our honesty and fairness at (insert any dealership name here). we would never hide an issue from a customer. Thats is stupid business and we value our customers coming back. We will fax over another rmv blah blah... Were looking like, wed, thurs latest because all the work that neefs to be done.

I wonder if I should ask for a new frame and bed at this point, I know the truck is out of warranty but that's just my thinking ;-)

 

They already guaranteed inspection will be passed, but not for the next year and so on.. What does everyone think about "extended warranties" through a third party like endurance?

 

So if they guaranteed all inspections to pass, will they replace the rusty frame?

 

Either that or spray coat it to death, I don't know

 

Do u happen to have any pics of the frame/rust?..btw love that color..

 

The only thing I would look out for is the air pumps! Clearing out the codes might work or if they disconnected the battery to reset the system. But if the computer puts the truck into limp mode, that’s going to keep your throttle down to 30 mph. Hopefully you won’t be on the freeway when it or if that happens. It did for me.

If your Tundra needs air pumps it’s very costly, I had an 2008 Tundra that had the pumps go twice. For me they were $2,500 each but I had a 100,000 mile warranty that covered them both times. As for the cost of the truck, mine was traded to Toyota for $12,500 and it had 158,000 miles on it. I’m thinking they reduced the price because of the air pump possibilities. I would research the air pump fixes, maybe they have an aftermarket fix? Good luck

 

Welcome from Ohio!

 

Air pumps are a red flag for me as well. I guarantee it will be back...soon. Although isn't there a "bypass kit" you can get at this point for the 2nd gens? It probably wont pass inspection though.

 

This. Take it to a second dealer for an inspection and a write-up. I paid 10k for my 05 with 197k. I'm slowly and surely working through everything that is worn out/needs fixing. I fly to Jersey in 2 weeks to pick up my new 4runner.

 

Why would they undercoat it, do they undercoat every used Tundra truck? What is with the time limit/hour ticker?? The airbag codes are a concern, you better make sure they fix them, as opposed to making code disappear. The price is a good price for that truck from a dealership though. Have you checked the Carfax report? Have you put in the VIN number on Toyota's website? That will give you the mechanical history as well and its free.

 

didn't carfax it yet but went to vincheck.info.. vininfocheck.info is good but maybe there's more info on carfax, not sure, still considering doing a carfax but it's like 30-40 bucks. there are about 6-7 hours before I can pull out of the deal.. I would think I should have 48 hours w/ the truck and not after the paperwork was signed before I choose to keep or not.
So i didn't initially take photos of the undercarriage cause my phone ran out of j00s. I went to the dealership today and wanted to take photos but the truck was on the lift and the guy said they "let only certain people in the service area". So these photos were taken by one of the employees, there's a short vid too, let me post them up, I'll take better photos when the work is done.. (saybng, it is a neat color thanks!) Thanks for your help guys, I'll definitely take it back to my mechanic and another dealership when the truck is finished w/ the work being done it. also will definitely get the service writers notes!

 

I can't post the video right now, unacceptable file type
sorry it took a bit to get back but I was helping a friend out to build up a handicap ramp for his 92 y/o stepdad last night, g2g back and continue helping.. be back later tonight!

 

Tell them to extend the “deadline” until you are ready to make an informed decision about a truck with clearly a lot of issues. You are coming at this in absolute good faith, and have spent a lot of your time and effort, in furtherance of trying to do a deal with them. If they are unwilling to extend their “deadline,” they are shady and not coming to the table with the same good faith as you are, and tell them, “later brah.”

 

Good advice. Better to walk away then get stuck with a money pit. That will give you many sleepless nights for sure.

 

doesn't look bad for $9K with 155K and the 5.7L imo. find a trusted toyota mechanic to fix the few issues and the truck should last a long time. check the VIN for recalls and work done on the truck. I can pull some info for you if you PM me the VIN #

 

You can request to go back there, as long as an employee is present and escorting you, so I throw the BS flag on the "employees only". Make the dealership run the carfax at no cost to you. I always got to go back and look at prospective vehicles/my toyota vehicles at the stealerships while they were being worked on. I get to look at my junk now when its getting worked on at the Co-op if I have a specific question about something while they are working on it.

If the dealership is honest, then they'll extend the deadline and wont sell it out from under you if you have a deposit on it. If not, go to a different dealership, tell them what you are looking for, and they'll find it for you.